VP MPI Fuel Pump Whine: a comprehensive post with info and links

[ESGWheel]

This post is intended to be a complete collection of information regarding ‘fuel pump whine’, an issue plaguing many of the older VP MPI engines. If there is info or processes missed, please add them in to help make this complete for others struggling with this issue. While this post focuses on the 5.0 and 5.7 regarding the parts it should have applicability beyond those two for the info and process. Hopefully it will be helpful for those trying to get this issue permanently resolved.

Symptoms: a high-pitched whine noise from the pump, either intermittent or continuous. Hot to the touch high pressure pump and electrical connector. Pressure more than 60 PSI on the fuel rail (spec is 58). Can also have rough running, stumbling and/or limited high rpms due to fuel starvation. In one extreme case, I read a comment on Man Cave Mechanic’s You Tube video that attributed his ruined 8.1 motor to cylinders 1, 3 and 6 leaning out due to paint debris clogging the injectors.

Cause: these pumps have internal paint that deteriorates overtime (due to ethanol fuel) and flakes off plugging up pump passages, the pressure regulator, and injectors. This in turn creates a higher backpressure and lower flow causing it to whine and draw more current and/or fuel starvation to the high-pressure pump also causing a whine.

Solution: Need to (1) replace or repair the pump (removing the internal paint) AND (2) clean out the rest of the fuel system. Both are required but can potentially do a ‘quick fix’ to keep on the water until a full permanent fix is done. Example: simply cleaning the screen on the pressure regulator may keep you going until can do more. Troy’s (Man Cave Mechanic) videos provide an excellent ‘how to check for paint debris’ and do an initial cleaning. Link is below.

For the Pump > several options exist:
Option A) quickest ‘back on the water’ solution is an Aftermarket (AM) pump that can be bought these days for less than $200. Note: I am unsure if the AM pumps have internal paint, so may not be a long-term solution.
Option B) send pump to Troy for internal paint removal and rebuilding.
Option C) get an AM pump to keep going on the water and send in your VP pump to Troy for paint removal and rebuilding. Once back in hand, put back in and save the AM pump as a backup (what I did).
Option D) clean and rebuild the VP yourself.

For Cleaning > several steps for this:
1) Pull out the fuel pressure regulator and clean off its screen. Ideally and if applicable, remove the screen and replace with the E clip as per VP Bulletin P-23-7. There is a Bosch branded regulator is available for abt $20 that is a direct replacement and has the same pressure output.
2) Pull off the fuel rail and thoroughly clean it out. Carb Cleaner works. Use low pressure compressed air to clean and blow out the fuel hoses. Be cautious of using canned cleaners to preclude softening the hose or O-Rings. Or simply replace the lines if they are aged more than 15 years as a preventive maintenance item.
3) Pull out the injectors and have them serviced. A ‘keep on the water’ solution is to buy a set of AM injectors and install those while sending off the VP ones for cleaning. All 8 AM injectors can be had for about $50. Alternatively have your OEM injectors cleaned during the off season. Doing (2) and (3) together is best.
+++===+++
Links and/or Part Nos. Note I have personally used all the below with success on my 2005 5.0 GXi-E.

• AM Fuel Pump: Link
• Cave Man Mechanic pump service and excellent how to videos: Link and link
• E Clip Bulletin Group P-23-7 No.3 Version 01: link and also on Man Cave Mechanic website
• E Clip part: available from Man Cave Mechanic and other resources.
• BOSCH Fuel Pressure Regulator Part No. 0280160575 link
• AM Injectors: search eBay and other sites (seller I bought from no longer has new, only reman).
• Fuel Injector Cleaning Services: many and varied. Look for one that will provide written report as well as runs the range of speeds. The one I used also provided the injector O-Rings savings a bundle on buying those. I used Marren located in CT link
• Tools: Fuel Pressure Tester OTC 5630 link and Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set ARES 70317 link. Many others exist.
• My previous posting about Fuel Pump Whine and E Clip installation with pictures: link

 

[HiWard]

Excellent summary, thank you.

 

[ChooChooSnakeMan]

Thanks, Very good information. I am a new Volvo Penta owner. My engine is a 2011 8.1 Gi-J. When you say "plaguing older MPI engines" can you list the year that it was not an issue? I think of my 2011 as "older" but maybe it isn't in this context. Thanks again!

 

[ESGWheel]

When you say "plaguing older MPI engines" can you list the year that it was not an issue?

Snake,
I have not seen anything definitive in terms of the years that they put paint inside their fuel cells. Others may know and hopefully can post the years and engines impacted. However, Troy has an excellent video on how to check for paint. Here is that specific link. Any of these tell-tale signs means you have it but the easiest one is simply spinning off the fuel filter and checking as he indicates. Post what you find as that may help bracket the years

 

[ChooChooSnakeMan]

ESGWheel, Thanks for the reply and the link. Very good video. I purchased the boat and had it serviced and winterized in early November so the fuel filter is new, therefore no use looking now. When I start using the boat in the spring after a couple of uses I'll unscrew the fuel filter and take a look and report what I find. I did find some posts on other forums that indicate that starting in 2010 Volvo Penta didn't have paint inside the fuel system components. I don't know how accurate that is but if so then my 2011 should be good to go. Hopefully someone with the facts will follow up and confirm that 2010 was the first year with no paint or let us know when it was.

 

[ESGWheel]

fuel filter is new, therefore no use looking now.

Glad to hear that post 2010s may be OK but recheck the vid at about 3:20 and 4:30. Troy talks about taking a pic of where the filter sits (or could use a mirror) > idea is to see if there is paint in this area where there is fuel (not just debris on the gasket). If yes, the rest of the cell is painted. I included a pic below of what he is driving at.

Since you are winterized and IF you have easy access to the engine this is a good time to get that pump serviced if it does have paint

 

[ChooChooSnakeMan]

Glad to hear that post 2010s may be OK but recheck the vid at about 3:20 and 4:30. Troy talks about taking a pic of where the filter sits (or could use a mirror) > idea is to see if there is paint in this area where there is fuel (not just debris on the gasket). If yes, the rest of the cell is painted. I included a pic below of what he is driving at.

Since you are winterized and IF you have easy access to the engine this is a good time to get that pump serviced if it does have paint

View attachment 394674

Great information. Let's hope someone with verified information posts about the last year that paint was present. One question related to your last post. I agree now would be the best time to take care of any pump service but since I had the boat winterized and they put a new fuel filter on and the boat has of course not been run would the new filter show signs of paint contamination if I unscrewed it and took a look? My idea which may be wrong is that I would need to look at it after the boat has be de-winterized and run for a time. I'd appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks

 

[ESGWheel]

Snake,
By removing the filter and looking where is mounts to see if the actual pump has paint in the area indicted in the pic (vs. a grayish color of the casting) means you have paint. No used filter inspection necessary.

If there is paint in this area of the pump it can be in one of several conditions: (1) pristine like a fresh coat (unlikely), (2) partially deteriorated and you see the grayish color of the casting in spots but when you rub it with your finger some paint flakes may stick to your finger or (3) deteriorated (mostly gray casting and little paint) and when you rub with your finger, the paint easily wipes off the pump. If it is a nice clean grayish color with no hint of paint flecks, you should be good to go.

However, if it is a nice and clean grayish color, I would still recommend the next check of pulling the pressure regulator and checking its screen (per video) just in case the paint has fully disintegrated leaving only the grayish color of the casting.

Hopefully, this makes sense but if not PM me to set up a call. Happy to help as needed.

 

[ChooChooSnakeMan]

Snake,
By removing the filter and looking where is mounts to see if the actual pump has paint in the area indicted in the pic (vs. a grayish color of the casting) means you have paint. No used filter inspection necessary.

If there is paint in this area of the pump it can be in one of several conditions: (1) pristine like a fresh coat (unlikely), (2) partially deteriorated and you see the grayish color of the casting in spots but when you rub it with your finger some paint flakes may stick to your finger or (3) deteriorated (mostly gray casting and little paint) and when you rub with your finger, the paint easily wipes off the pump. If it is a nice clean grayish color with no hint of paint flecks, you should be good to go.

However, if it is a nice and clean grayish color, I would still recommend the next check of pulling the pressure regulator and checking its screen (per video) just in case the paint has fully disintegrated leaving only the grayish color of the casting.

Hopefully, this makes sense but if not PM me to set up a call. Happy to help as needed.

Thanks for your patience! I see now says the blind man I now understand that I need to look up into the pump. I'll do that next time I'm at the boat. Hopefully it won't show any signs of the dreaded paint. I'm hoping someone will post the exact year that the paint stopped being a problem. I have a friend who has a 5.7 in a 2006 Sea Ray and his had the problem. Caused him to break down on the water last year right after he purchased the boat. Thanks again.

 

[briangcc]

My '05 Four Winns had the fuel pump replaced due to whine. $1k bill using Volvo parts. One of many reasons I no longer own that boat.

5.0L MPI SX drive

 

[ESGWheel]

Now I see says the blind man

Glad I could help you 'as he picked up the hammer and saw'

 

[ChooChooSnakeMan]

In the interest of helping anyone who might come here with the dreaded VP fuel pump "whine" issue let me post my latest developments. I took my 8.1VP Gi-J boat out the first time since my purchase and it ran great. Second time out it ran great but it had a noise that sounded like an alarm or siren. Not decibel loud but high pitched. I tracked the noise to be coming from my fuel pumps. If you read the posts on this thread I had some evidence that perhaps 2010 was the year VP stopped painting the inside of the fuel pumps. I have followed up with ManCaveMechanic about the noise. By the way Troy was very quick to respond to my questions. What I have found out is that VP never stopped selling the fuel pumps with paint in them! I believe Troy's solutions for this problem to be the best most cost effective available and I am working with him to determine my best option among several options he has available. I did want to post this follow up as a caution to everyone. Regardless of the model year of your engine if it has the OEM VP fuel pumps they most likely have paint on the inside. It has been documented that the paint can clog injectors which can cause catastrophic destruction of the engine.