VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

dacarter

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106
Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Wow, just read the sterndrive removal procedure. I'm surprised the entire drive comes off, with the old VP I had 20 years ago, 270 I think, you could remove only the upper outdrive but leave the lower in place.
 

dacarter

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Got the oil out, in the end the cheapest Harbor Freight hand pump ($8) is the one that worked. Had to insert a small tube to the bottom of the dip stick tube.
 

saintlee

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Apr 25, 2011
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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

With the oil pan threads, I was informed that after market 305 pans come in 3 different size drain hole threads.
The pan i received came with sae threads and volvo uses metric 12 by 1.75.
 

dacarter

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Just scored an alignment tool off ebay, new for $45 including shipping. About 10 available. Guess I'm taking off the outdrive.
 

bruceb58

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Just scored an alignment tool off ebay, new for $45 including shipping. About 10 available. Guess I'm taking off the outdrive.
You want to be doing that every year anyway.
 

dacarter

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Got quite a bit done today in preparation for pulling the engine. Bought a couple of 2x8's at Home Depot and lag bolted them together...

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Then made some end supports from 4x4's

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Here's the lift setup in place

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I got most of the disconnects done, but I can tell the exhaust hoses are going to be a pain. Got the clamps lose but haven't been able to get either side to move yet.

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(hit picture limit, cont...)
 

dacarter

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Found one surprise when I disconnected the water line. I haven't noticed any leaks, and you would think that if it did leak, the pump would suck air and the engine would overheat, which it hasn't in the 3 times I've had it out. I don't see how this even happened. I was able to reshape the fitting and will keep working with it to see if I can get it round again. Supposedly a shop in Austin, TX had the engine out last year, so there must be some hack mechanics at that shop.

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Also, the manual mentions rear motor mounts, but I don't have any. I see a spot on the bell housing where they would go, but I have no rear stringers, so the coupler supports some of the engine weight?

WP_20130330_013.jpg
 

bruceb58

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

I suggest taking the exhaust manifolds and risers off. It disconnects your exhaust system and gets rid of a lot of weight. To be honest, your rig supporting the engine needs as little weight on it as possible. Not sure I would be working under that engine with the way you are doing it.

You do have rear engine mounts. You just can't see them very well. Its on the transom assembly. The coupler does not support any weight at all.

All of this is in the service manual which you really should have.
 

Don S

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

The rear motor mounts are on the flywheel cover, and have two 1/2"-13 nylock nuts on top of to 2" or so OD SS washers (Don't loose those washers)
 

saintlee

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Pretty much the same set up i did. I put 2 small pieces of angle iron on top of the wood so my cable from the come-along didnt dig in.
My span was 7 1/2 feet and the wood held perfect.
 

dacarter

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Bruce, somehow I had a feeling you would criticize my lifting setup. Are you aware of how much weight one 2x8 can support over a 7' span? Much less two tied together? I think I'll be fine lifting a 1000 lb engine, but obviously won't be under it.

As I've said before, I'm using the service manuals online on this site. Interesting that you say I should have the manuals, but you also say the information in them about engine alignment requirements is wrong.

I see no reason to remove the exhaust manifold, but I am thinking about seeing if the upper hose is easier to remove, or maybe the risers and the upper hose. Replacing the gasket under the riser might be a good move since there is a slight bit of rust at the joint.
 

dacarter

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

I'll take another look for the rear engine mounts. I was told by a shop that looked at the boat that there is a "dust cover" missing. You can see the flywheel when looking under the engine from in front of it. They said it's a $133 part. Not sure how critical it is, or why it's missing.
 

Don S

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

All that cover does is keep "things" that may be in the bilge, out of the spinning flywheel.

Since it's missing, I would bet money this is not the first time the engine has come out of the boat.
 

dacarter

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

I have receipts showing the engine was out last year, one reason I'm not that concerned about alignment.

The previous owner hit a rock in Lake Travis near Austin. I have receipts for over 14k of insurance work over 3 visits to the shop. Basically everything inside the outdrive is new, and the props were replaced. The last thing to break was the U-joints and they did some damage on the way out so the the engine had to be removed to fix all that. Not sure why they didn't just replace with a rebuilt drive, but I guess it was more cash for the shop to rebuilt it themselves. This was between 2011-2012.
 

bruceb58

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

The owners manual shows the rear engine mounts. That is why I thought you weren't using them.

You are on your own from now on. Have fun!
 

dacarter

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

So after doing more reading and getting advice from several here, I've decided I will pull the outdrive and replace the exhaust riser gasket.

I read the VP bulletin about using copper based sealant on the riser gasket, and was ready to order the Volvo gasket kit. I thought I'd check the price local, so I called a local VP shop, that has been in business since the 70's, and they said they don't use the stock metal gaskets anymore since they had so many problems, and now use an aftermarket non-metal gasket and they are working out better. So now I'm having doubts about the stock gasket, and thinking I may should go with the advice of the local shop.
 

dacarter

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

The outdrive is off, much easier than I expected. I did find some water in the u-joint bellows, so I continued to dig deeper. Found a hole in the bellows.
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Not sure what would have caused this, but the bellows was replaced about a year ago, so I think I caught it early. The u-joints are not rusty, and were also replaced about a year ago, so I'm thinking they are ok. The gimball bearing does not turn easily, so I'm going to have to replace it.

I pulled the risers from the manifolds and after some 80 grit cleanup, they look pretty decent, and should be able to get another 5 years or so from them.

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I visited one of a three Houston VP parts/service places called Munson Marine, that I had never been to before and was pleasantly surprised by this very nice and helpful husband and wife team. They have been doing this for many years and very generous with advice. The sold me some after market riser gaskets that they say work better than the Volvo gaskets, and recommended ultra black RTV sealant. I bought the gaskets, and both bellows, a used dust cover ($30 instead of $130), a C clip that was missing from the exhaust bellows, and an oil filter. They also recommended doing the Y-pipe seal since the engine will be out, so I bought that as well.

The $73 GM oil pan arrived yesterday from GMpartsdirect.com. It has a nice black paint job, but we sanded it lightly and sprayed 3 coats of truck bed liner paint, masking off the bolt and drain plug area, to hopefully give it more saltwater protection.

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I also found today that one power steering line goes into the cooler, but the outlet is plugged, so it looks like my PS is completely disabled. I noticed on the test drive it was very heavy. Not sure why this would happen, or how to fix it, but may look at it later.

Also got my alignment tool, and it slides about 8" in, with no resistance.

My impression so far is that this engine/outdrive combo is very easy to work on.
 

dacarter

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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

It was an exhausting weekend, but I'm making progress. I can say now that there's no way this job would have been doable without lifting the engine. The original gasket was stuck really good in the front, and even working with a couple of feet under the engine it was difficult getting it off.

Here's a shot of the corrosion that caused the leak. I did verify that everything about the cheap GM pan is the same as the $400 volvo pan including the threads on the drain.

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I used a 2000 lb electric wench to lift the engine, and put an extra strap over the double 2x8's for safety when working near the engine. It looks more cocked in the picture than it really is due to the angle of the shot. This setup is working pretty well. I was able to walk the engine off to once side by raising it and lowering it onto 4x4's so that I could get more room on one side.

The new oil pan is on after much effort. Just need to clean up the bilge, and replace the Y pipe seal before setting the engine back in place.

Next will be the outdrive work. I have a gimball bearing on order, and will look for the 10lb slide hammer at Auto zone. Unfortunately, business travel is going to take me away from this project for 2 of the next 3 weeks, but hoping to be back in the water by mid May.

WP_20130407_013.jpg
 

saintlee

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Messages
93
Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

Thats the exact same spot as my pan trouble was. I wonder if theres anything that can be done to prevent this. I noticed in your pic you used the angle iron on top of the 2by8s, good move. Im glad your drain threads matched up, home-run. Keep us updated.
 

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dacarter

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Mar 6, 2013
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Re: VP 5.7Gi-D Oil Pan Replacement

saintlee, the angle iron idea came from you, thanks. It was still a bit scary working in tight quarters with a dangling 1000lb engine, but with the extra strap, I felt pretty comfortable nothing bad would happen, and I tried to stay out from under the engine as much as possible.

I don't think there's much that can be done to prevent the corrosion on the pan, but I had to laugh when a VP shop in town tried to tell me the VP pan was worth $400 and was somehow better than a stock GM pan. The only difference I could see was the color of the paint.

Have to travel on business next week but hope to get back on the project weekend after next.
 
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