Volvo Penta in Bayliner 1989 runs in start position but not in run position

xs650head

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Transom Assembly = TSK SX-M 3868844 4151078811
Drive Unit = DP-SM 2.32(M22) 3868914 4202121821
Engine = 4.3 GXI-E 3869252 4012136692



Hi all, my friend and I recently purchased a 1989 (I believe) Bayliner with 2 V6 Volvo Penta (possibly rebuilt) motors - the boat has been sat for a long time (maybe 4 years) in a pen.
When we try to start the starboard motor it will continue to run and rev if the key is held in the 'Start" position - as soon as the key is turned back to the 'run' position the motor stops pretty quickly (a couple of seconds) .
After doing some research I believed the problem to be that the fuel pump was not getting power from the alternator when the key was turned back to the 'run' position so I tried jumping power to the fuel pump from the battery - the fuel pump can be heard to be running but the motor still dies as soon as the key is returned to the 'run' position.
The port motor is at this time an unknown quantity as the starter motor is not throwing out the gear.
We have tried swapping relays around but to no avail,
When the ignition is turned on the alarm sounds until the motor starts and then it stops.
We fitted two brand new fuel pump assemblies which the seller had as this was what he obviously believed the problem to be.
We are not Volvo mechanics nor do we pretend to be - we are merely boating enthusiasts trying to find a way to get this lovely boat running so as we can get it up onto the hard stand and do the required work to get it up to scratch.
I am electrically ok and we are both mechanically adept.
If anyone knows (or even just has any suggestions) what to try next please advise - all help appreciated.
This boat is based in Dolphin Quay in Mandurah WA, Australia so even if there is a reasonably priced mechanic in the area willing to help it would be much appreciated.
New to this site so please be kind if I have gotten anything wrong!
 
Last edited:

bruceb58

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Mar 5, 2006
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30,478
Check your voltage at the coil in the run position.

You have electric fuel pumps on an 89? That is kinda odd since I don't believe they had them back then.
 

QBhoy

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Check your voltage at the coil in the run position.

You have electric fuel pumps on an 89? That is kinda odd since I don't believe they had them back then.
Looks like he has listed a much more modern gxi engines in the post. Defo been replaced, if that’s correct
 

ripjmk

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Sounds like the ECU is not receiving an acceptable oil pressure signal and shutting down the ground path to the fuel pumps. Are you sure you are getting oil pressure? Do you have an oil pressure gauge? If yes then test the oil pressure switch.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Start with the basics

Look at the schematic for your newer volvo motors.

You either have a key switch issue, or a diode issue
 

ripjmk

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There is no schematic available for the GXI-E that I know of. The nearest is the one for the 4.3 GXi-C/D. And they don't have diodes in the alternator that feed the fuel pumps. The relay for the furl pumps is hot all the time and the ECU controls it by providing a ground for the relay coil.
 

xs650head

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Check your voltage at the coil in the run position.

You have electric fuel pumps on an 89? That is kinda odd since I don't believe they had them back then.
Firstly, Thanks for your reply - I will def b checking that on the weekend.
yes, maybe the motors have been replaced, the numbers were on ID plates on the motors.
 

xs650head

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Sounds like the ECU is not receiving an acceptable oil pressure signal and shutting down the ground path to the fuel pumps. Are you sure you are getting oil pressure? Do you have an oil pressure gauge? If yes then test the oil pressure switch.
Thanks for the reply, I will check this out on the weekend - do you know how I can test the oil pressure switch (are you referring to what we call a 'Sender')
 

xs650head

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Start with the basics

Look at the schematic for your newer volvo motors.

You either have a key switch issue, or a diode issue
Hi, thanks for the reply - My 'offsider' seemed to think it may be an Ignition switch problem - at least we have 2 ignition switches so I can maybe swap them about and see what results I get.
Which diode should I be testing and where is it located pls.
 

xs650head

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There is no schematic available for the GXI-E that I know of. The nearest is the one for the 4.3 GXi-C/D. And they don't have diodes in the alternator that feed the fuel pumps. The relay for the furl pumps is hot all the time and the ECU controls it by providing a ground for the relay coil.
Hi, thank-you also for your reply, are you saying that there should be power at the fuel pump relay all the time with the ignition on - in the run position?
I don't suppose that u would know which pin it is that should be hot all the time - I managed to find some info on the net and managed to jumper the feed to the fuel pump by sending power to pin 87 of the fuel pump relay and it did make the fuel pump run but did not keep the motor running when the key was turned back to the run position
 

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xs650head

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Check your voltage at the coil in the run position.

You have electric fuel pumps on an 89? That is kinda odd since I don't believe they had them back then.
This is where I found the information that I posted - I hope it helps.
 

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xs650head

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Check your voltage at the coil in the run position.

You have electric fuel pumps on an 89? That is kinda odd since I don't believe they had them back then.
When U say 'check your voltage at the coil in the run position' I am assuming that I would be looking for the 12v supply to the coil initially?
 

bruceb58

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When U say 'check your voltage at the coil in the run position' I am assuming that I would be looking for the 12v supply to the coil initially?
yes

Typically, that's more of an issue with an older engine with a points distributor with a ballast resistor. Likely not an issue with your since its a newer engine but worth checking anyway.
 

ripjmk

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You really need the "VP EFI Diagnostics" manual. The wiring schematic for the 4.3 GXi-C/D is towards the back. I believe the only difference between this and yours is your diagnostic link connector (DLC) will have additional can bus wires in it and the green/yellow (check engine light) wire is no longer in it. However this wire still goes from ECU connector J1 pin 27 to pin 9 on the big round engine wiring harness connector. This wire is the switched ground for a check engine light (which you probably don't have) and could be used to read stored engine codes. you could still probe this wire and connect a 12 volt low current electronic LED test light (or multimeter set to continuity test) between +12v and this wire. To read the flashed codes the ECU has to be put into service mode by shorting the black/white and the black wire together in the DLC (search the web for "MEFI 4 billavista" for a good description of reading the codes). We owners of GXi-E engines are in a bit of a "no mans land" as Volvo was changing over from MEFI 4 ECUs to their own design ECUs!
1632929934106.png1632930014328.png
 

xs650head

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You really need the "VP EFI Diagnostics" manual. The wiring schematic for the 4.3 GXi-C/D is towards the back. I believe the only difference between this and yours is your diagnostic link connector (DLC) will have additional can bus wires in it and the green/yellow (check engine light) wire is no longer in it. However this wire still goes from ECU connector J1 pin 27 to pin 9 on the big round engine wiring harness connector. This wire is the switched ground for a check engine light (which you probably don't have) and could be used to read stored engine codes. you could still probe this wire and connect a 12 volt low current electronic LED test light (or multimeter set to continuity test) between +12v and this wire. To read the flashed codes the ECU has to be put into service mode by shorting the black/white and the black wire together in the DLC (search the web for "MEFI 4 billavista" for a good description of reading the codes). We owners of GXi-E engines are in a bit of a "no mans land" as Volvo was changing over from MEFI 4 ECUs to their own design ECUs!
View attachment 350641View attachment 350642
Hi, thanks for the input, I have managed to find a manual 'Volvo Penta EFI Diagnostics GM Workshop Manual' online for $17 is this the correct bible? I just noticed the 'GM' bit that you did not mention and want to make sure that I buy the right book.
I am a little confused about reading the codes - how would I do this - with a laptop and some software and a cable? (sorry, very new to this)
 

ripjmk

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No that is not it, It is publication VPA 7742218 03-2003.
 

ripjmk

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Please check your on engine diagnostic link connector and see how many wires it has, 5,6 or10. Also the color of the wire at pin E (the letters are small and molded in the end of the connector).
If the wire at pin E is not green/yellow then the $59 Rinda Codemate will not work. The other Rinda options, while being really good, start at $569 USD.
If your willing to spend that amount great, otherwise read the article at http://www.billavista.com/Tech/Articles/MEFI-4_Fuel_Injection/index.html.
It might be worth you checking out my old thread on the THT forum titled "Volvo Penta 10 wire data link connector".

 

xs650head

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Please check your on engine diagnostic link connector and see how many wires it has, 5,6 or10. Also the color of the wire at pin E (the letters are small and molded in the end of the connector).
If the wire at pin E is not green/yellow then the $59 Rinda Codemate will not work. The other Rinda options, while being really good, start at $569 USD.
If your willing to spend that amount great, otherwise read the article at http://www.billavista.com/Tech/Articles/MEFI-4_Fuel_Injection/index.html.
It might be worth you checking out my old thread on the THT forum titled "Volvo Penta 10 wire data link connector".

OK I will check this out tomorrow and report back - $59 sounds a lot better than $569 but sometimes you've gotta buy the better tools to do the job
 
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