Volvo Penta AQ131D getting hot

[MONC440]

I did find another issue my exhaust bellows has a tear in it so I got to replace that. I don’t think this would have anything to do with the heat issue, would it?

 

[MONC440]

I had another question about the reverse lock. I noticed in the water when I put it in reverse the drive wasn’t locked and jumped up. So I just put the drive down and put it in reverse and it is not locking in. It looks like the support rod that holds the drive up in transport is in the way. I’m I supposed to remove that support before putting it in the water? This is my first penta drive and my merc had power trim and didn’t have a transport support.

 

[MONC440]

Just when I was getting ready to call it a night I found this piece on the ground. I think it is supposed to be attached to the rod that lifts the drive. Is that correct? I can’t see where else it would go.

 

[captmello]

yes,, that is the foot from the end of the tilt rod. it screws in and has a piece that is supposed to keep it from unscrewing.
I would order a new water connection fitting and gasket, that old one is done.
the exhaust bellows isn't a priority, it has water in it all the time anyway.
I haven't used an outdrive support like that, but I'm pretty sure it should be removed when the boat is in use.

 

[MONC440]

So, I got everything back together and I plan to put it in the water tomorrow.

I'm still having an issue with the drive locking down. If I put it in the down position, I can still lift up on it and it starts to catch then lifts up. If I push the lock mechanism up it locks in and stays locked. If I raise it up with the power tilt and lower it back down it will not lock in unless I push the mechanism up by hand. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks

 

[kenny nunez]

If you are not removing the trailering support the drive will not lock down in reverse.
You need to get a genuine Volvo service and parts manual.
The threaded contact pad should have a thin stainless washer that keeps it from unscrewing.

 

[MONC440]

I did remove the trailering device and the trim is all the way down. I fixed threaded contact pad and it is not touching the release rod that releases the lock when you lift the drive. The lock mechanism just is not coming up enough to lock the drive down. I have looked at the service manual (that kind of sucks for troubleshooting BTW) and it talks about how to adjust it for reverse. It is adjusted probably for reverse but is not rotating up enough to lock it. I love it when you ask for help and someone says to get a manual. I have the Volvo manual and it is not helpful so I’m asking for help.

 

[captmello]

it may just need a spring or two replaced to bring the lock mech back in place.

 

[MONC440]

I wanted to let you guys know my overheating issue is solved. I put in a new impeller and cleaned around the pickup hose to outdrive. I have had the boat in the water for the last 6 weeks without issues. Can run it at 4500 rpm’s all the way across the lake and it only hits 200-205 F. It was still dieseling when I turned it off and I did notice the idle was set at about 1200 rpm. So I dropped that down to about 850 and now when I turn it off it just stops running.

I also added a whale tail and now it almost jumps up on plane even with a full tank of gas and 5 adults.

I just got this boat this summer and was not impressed with the Volvo at first. Now l’m really happy with it. My GPS says I’m hitting 31mph at 4700. It will go all the way to 5100 at wide open throttle but the manual says to run it at 500 rpm’s below max.

Thanks for the help

 

[MONC440]

Also after removing the trailering device and moving the rod to the middle position the outdrive locks down as it should.

 

[Lou C]

I think 200* is still too hot. Did you do the clear hose test?
If the engine has a heat exchanger it should run between 160-180*; if raw water cooled about 160 at most. If it has a heat exchanger as many of these do it may need to be cleaned out.
I think that hose connector on the outdrive may be too corroded to seal properly.
I would also get an IR temp gun & check the temp of the exhaust manifold/elbow after running on plane. I have Volvo style exhaust on my OMC 4.3 and when in good shape & not clogged the hottest they get is 135* or so. If yours is getting a lot hotter it could be part of the problem and yes they corrode even in fresh water. I also noticed a tear in the lip of the driveshaft bellows; I’d want to see what that looks like under the clamp; might want to replace that. Boat looks great!

 

[MONC440]

I’m ordering a new outdrive pickup and going to change that to get rid of all the corrosion. I’m also ordering a new billows kit and changing all of them.

I’m guessing at the 200 to 205 temp because the temp gauge is not real precise. I will run it today and check the temps with IR and report back. Thanks

 

[captmello]

200 isn't too hot for that engine setup, I think it uses a 195 deg thermo.

 

[kenny nunez]

You still have to follow up on my post #18. This winter you need to replace the “O” ring below the suspension fork and the hose nipple. Your engine is still running too hot.

 

[MONC440]

Sorry what is the suspension fork? I’m an auto technician not a boat technician so sorry if that is a dumb question.

 

[kenny nunez]

The suspension fork is the vertical arms that attach the drive to the transom plate, the hose nipple is attached to it. Quite similar to the way lower control arms attach to the frame of a car. It will not be long and you will get used to the quirky way Volvo describes things.
The thing about AQ Volvos is that they are the easiest to work on with a minimum of tools. And they out last all the drive systems.
I was an auto mechanic before I got into the marine business.

 

[MONC440]

Ok I got it. Thanks.

I took the boat out today and my IR would not work. I left the batteries in it for the last year and they corroded up and it will not work. I had the cover off the engine and I put the boat on plane for about 15 minutes alternating from 3200 to 4700 rpm to get it at maximum temp. The temp gauge shows about 200 and when I stopped I could put my hand on the exhaust manifold and exhaust tube going to the outdrive and it felt warm but not hot. I could put my hand on the heat exchanger for about 6 seconds before feeling like it was going to burn me. It was cooler than a car radiator for sure. I looked at the operating manual and it states the thermostat starts to open at 170 and is fully open at 190 so I figure 200 is good. After idling for about a minute the temp gauge goes down to 180 ish.

 

[kenny nunez]

Looks like the temperature is under control. So now you will be able to know when the system needs attention. You need to watch the exhaust manifold, there is a “cast in “ divider at the outlet, when the divider goes away from corrosion water starts getting into the #4.

 

[MONC440]

Looks like the temperature is under control. So now you will be able to know when the system needs attention. You need to watch the exhaust manifold, there is a “cast in “ divider at the outlet, when the divider goes away from corrosion water starts getting into the #4.

What would be the symptoms for that? Miss firing?

 

[kenny nunez]

Misfiring and you will start seeing rust streaks around the head to manifold area. You might be able to inspect it with a miniature camera after slipping the rubber hose down the exhaust down pipe. There will be a hole in the divider.