Upper Water Tube Grommet Replacement 6hp 1985.

[cprodave]

Cooling water is gushing out from under the Powerhead on my model E6RCOB. The water comes out the Starboard side behind/near the Gear Shift Lever. Good news is that the water stream from the Telltale is very strong (I did a full Gearcase Housing Replacement including all Seals and Water Pump about a year ago). So I am 99% sure the Upper Water Tube Grommet 330426 is bad.
The Powerhead has to be removed in order to replace this Grommet, correct? If so then I plan to : Remove Breather Box, Remove Carburetor, Remove Recoil Starter, Disconnect Fuel Line between Fuel Pump and Carburetor, Remove Spark plugs (to facilitate laying Powerhead on side)--correct? Also, can I leave the Flywheel, CDI and Throttle Cable attached? Would I be removing anything unnecessarily? Is there anything I am not properly identifying for removal? Also, will I need to buy any parts other than the Grommet and Exhaust Housing Gasket 330564?

Thanks for any advice that might help me do a smooth changeout on this Grommet.

 

[cprodave]

Video added.

 

[Vic.S]

Failure of the grommet will not cause the symptoms you describe/ show in your video.
The usual problem with is that it obstructs the cooling water flow from the water tube into the power head.
If it actually failed water would leak back down into the exhaust housing
If you have a good stream from the telltale neither of these is occuring.

Cannot be sure from your video but I think the gasket ( 330564) must have failed unless water and exhaust are coming out round the shift lever shaft

When I have to separate the powerhead from the exhaust housing I begin by removing the gearcase. You might get it apart without but I reckon in will be next to impossible to reassemble it with the gearcase in position..

 

[cprodave]

Vic, thanks for advising. Yes the telltale stream is very strong. I forgot to mention that I have already removed the Lower Unit so that I could (attempt to) inspect the Top Water Tube Grommet from underside. Unfortunately It is very difficult to do a thorough inspection from underside.

Yes there is definitely water and Exhaust Smoke Coming out round the Shift Lever Shaft. Did you mean "because" instead of "unless" below? If so then I will plan for replacing Gasket 330564 (which will also allow me to inspect and possibly replace--although I hope not--Top Water Tube Grommet 330426).

"Cannot be sure from your video but I think the gasket ( 330564) must have failed unless (Vic, did you mean "because" here?) water and exhaust are coming out round the shift lever shaft".

Thanks again,

Dave

 

[cprodave]

Vic/All,
Looking at the Exploded Diagram for this Model--could the problem simply be the Shift Handle O-Ring 303191 has failed? That's a lot easier and cheaper than lifting the Powerhead, etc. !!!

Dave

 

[Crosbyman]

strange the part diagram does not show a grommet under the power head ?? if you get a leak you may have to pull the head off the mid section to inspect what is wrong but do check PART #9 as suggested

 

[Crosbyman]

btw you did.... torque down all the power head bolts under the ph ... ?

 

[Vic.S]

Vic, thanks for advising. Yes the telltale stream is very strong. I forgot to mention that I have already removed the Lower Unit so that I could (attempt to) inspect the Top Water Tube Grommet from underside. Unfortunately It is very difficult to do a thorough inspection from underside.

Yes there is definitely water and Exhaust Smoke Coming out round the Shift Lever Shaft. Did you mean "because" instead of "unless" below? If so then I will plan for replacing Gasket 330564 (which will also allow me to inspect and possibly replace--although I hope not--Top Water Tube Grommet 330426).

"Cannot be sure from your video but I think the gasket ( 330564) must have failed unless (Vic, did you mean "because" here?) water and exhaust are coming out round the shift lever shaft".

Thanks again,

Dave

Vic/All,
Looking at the Exploded Diagram for this Model--could the problem simply be the Shift Handle O-Ring 303191 has failed? That's a lot easier and cheaper than lifting the Powerhead, etc. !!!

Dave

I cannot be sure from the video if the water is coming from the gasket or the shift lever shaft or both. There is more water than I thought could come from the shift shaft. but i maybe just the O ring that has failed
I dont think you will be able to withdraw the shift lever without removing the powerhead , separating the lower cowl from the exhaust housing and removing the little cover #70.
You will probably therefore need the gasket #91 on the parts diagram anyway.

 

[Vic.S]

strange the part diagram does not show a grommet under the power head ?? if you get a leak you may have to pull the head off the mid section to inspect what is wrong but do check PART #9 as suggested

Not sure what you mean by "grommet" under the power head
#91 is the gasket between the power head and the inner exhaust tube and the exhaust housing.
#68 is the watertube and #75 the watertube grommet

 

[cprodave]

Sorry for delay in responding. Without removing the Powerhead I was able to remove little cover #70 and then removed the GearShift Lever. I have another parts motor with same Gearshift Lever which I removed. The 2 Gearshift Levers look the same, including O-ring #9. I will try to separately photos of side-by-side compare of the 2 Gearshift Lever assemblies.
However I am still puzzled by the question of whether there is a Grommet at the top of the Water Tube on this Model. I do not see this Grommet in the diagrams--I see only a Bottom Water Tube Grommet. However in Leeroy's Ramblings Leeroy writes quite a bit about Grommet #324045 being a possible failure point on these 6/8hp Models of this vintage. Does anybody know of a possible error whereby the diagrams fail to show this Top Grommet?
I realize that pulling the head will give answers, but wish to avoid that if possible...

 

[cprodave]

BTW i did find one of the 6 bolts attaching power head was slightly loos, but it was on Port side, not Starboard side which is leaking. O-ring #9 (pencil pointing to it) is same on both Gearshift Levers.

 

[Vic.S]

Sorry for delay in responding. Without removing the Powerhead I was able to remove little cover #70 and then removed the GearShift Lever. I have another parts motor with same Gearshift Lever which I removed. The 2 Gearshift Levers look the same, including O-ring #9. I will try to separately photos of side-by-side compare of the 2 Gearshift Lever assemblies.
However I am still puzzled by the question of whether there is a Grommet at the top of the Water Tube on this Model. I do not see this Grommet in the diagrams--I see only a Bottom Water Tube Grommet. However in Leeroy's Ramblings Leeroy writes quite a bit about Grommet #324045 being a possible failure point on these 6/8hp Models of this vintage. Does anybody know of a possible error whereby the diagrams fail to show this Top Grommet?
I realize that pulling the head will give answers, but wish to avoid that if possible...

The grommet is part number 0330426 and is shown as part #75 in the midsection parts diagram
see

Midsection - OMC OEM Parts - iboats.com

Midsection - OMC OEM Parts - Since 1998, iboats is the most trusted water lifestyle online store for boat parts and accessories, boats for sale, and forums. Enjoy great priced products with fast shipping.

ww2.iboats.com

ITYWF part number 324045 is the number of the similar part in '84 and older models

 

[cprodave]

I removed the head and did see Upper Water Tube Grommet #75 p/n 330436(see photos). The Gromment still makes an airtight seal around the Water Tube. However it is hard to say whether this Grommet is sealing properly against the Gasket #91. So I will replace this Grommet and Gasket #91 p/n 330564 and Gearshift Lever o-ring #9 p/n 303191--although this will preclude me from knowing which of the 3 were Root Cause. I will also clean out the Lower Cover interior so if the exhaust gas/water continues to leak i might get better visual indication of where the leak is occurring.
Are there any other parts that would be a good idea to replace for preventive maintenance as long as i have the powerhead removed? Driveshaft seal #77, crankshaft seal #78, o-ring #79 p/n 330551?
Thanks to all for the input...

 

[cprodave]

One additional note...it appears i am missing one Silencer Pad #100 p/n 327030, only 1 is present--exhaust soot buildup on side opposite of this photo indicates the 2nd Silencer Pad has been missing for a long time. The diagram calls for qty=2. Are 2 (or even 1) really necessary? What would impact be of running with only 1 Pad?

 

[oldboat1]

Think I would replace the powerhead gasket and replace the second silencer pad you identified (you have already replaced the o-ring on the shift lever, although I'm not sure that is an issue with the leaking). The powerhead on the 6 should lift off with a minimum of parts removed (starter cord through the lower shroud, for example, by taking the cord out of the handle and carefully locking the cord from retracting -- tie it off, or use a vise-grip.) The motor should not be test run directly over a barrel edge or exhaust will find it's way under the hood.

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

i had this happen on an 88' model last summer. someone used the wrong sealer on the gasket. be sure to clean the mating surfaces really well. use a razor blade tool to scrape off the big stuff, then a good gasket scraper for the smaller stuff. then wipe off with alcohol, or it will certainly leak again.

 

[cprodave]

Oldboat, thanks for the input. Unfortunately I already disassembled much further than you advised but no harm done (I think) it should be a good learning experience for me. Can you explain(or send a photo) of what you mean by running over a barrel edge? Are you saying that I might be fixing a "problem" that only exists in my Test Tank? I have not tested on my boat. I have been testing this 1985 E6RCOB 6hp outboard by running it on a portable wheeled stand with a "pickle barrel" (less than 55 Gallons, I am guessing it is around 30 gallons. The engine is a tight fit to the barrel, i.e. most of the top surface of the water is covered by the engine. I also run a 1998 8hpE8RECR Evinrude on the same stand and barrel, but see no weird smoke--but the 1998 Gearshift Lever is a completely different configuration. Please advise, thanks.
CT1762, yes I will clean the gasket surfaces thoroughly. Thanks for the reminder.

 

[oldboat1]

cprodave -- have in mind mounting the motor directly to the edge of the barrel, as some do. If using a wheeled stand of some sort, I'll guess the motor has enough set back. Unless you are testing on a boat underway in the lake, there will be more exhaust -- but sounds like you have it right for barrel testing. The water has to be well over the water pump -- about half way up the shaft is good, imo.

 

[cprodave]

Oldboat, thanks for the input. Unfortunately I already disassembled much further than you advised but no harm done (I think) it should be a good learning experience for me. Can you explain(or send a photo) of what you mean by running over a barrel edge? Are you saying that I might be fixing a "problem" that only exists in my Test Tank? I have not tested on my boat. I have been testing this 1985 E6RCOB 6hp outboard by running it on a portable wheeled stand with a "pickle barrel" (less than 55 Gallons, I am guessing it is around 30 gallons. The engine is a tight fit to the barrel, i.e. most of the top surface of the water is covered by the engine. I also run a 1998 8hpE8RECR Evinrude on the same stand and barrel, but see no weird smoke--but the 1998 Gearshift Lever is a completely different configuration. Please advise, thanks.
CT1762, yes I will clean the gasket surfaces thoroughly. Thanks for the reminder.

cprodave -- have in mind mounting the motor directly to the edge of the barrel, as some do. If using a wheeled stand of some sort, I'll guess the motor has enough set back. Unless you are testing on a boat underway in the lake, there will be more exhaust -- but sounds like you have it right for barrel testing. The water has to be well over the water pump -- about half way up the shaft is good, imo.

Thanks Oldboat. Also any problem with my tank setup would not explain the fact that water (along with exhaust fumes) is leaking from an area where leaking should not occur.
With any luck at all i will have new parts installed and do a real on-the-water test jn about a week....will then post update...

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

Thanks Oldboat. Also any problem with my tank setup would not explain the fact that water (along with exhaust fumes) is leaking from an area where leaking should not occur.
With any luck at all i will have new parts installed and do a real on-the-water test jn about a week....will then post update...

i guess the leak is playing tricks... might look like its coming from one place but is really in another! i'm sure once you get it back toghether all will be well. some of those gaskets go on dry, some with sealer so be sure to read the manual. i think that one does need sealing compound if i can remember. the 98' definitely does.