Re: Thinking of trying to rebuild 18 hp Johnson
Re: Thinking of trying to rebuild 18 hp Johnson
Glad you got you r parts cc. Not to worry you can do it. Ok, lets try to tackle these questions one by one.
Prop: I've never used a thrust washer. I only use the drive pin (or shear pin) then the prop the the prop nut tightened such that the cotter pin holes line up. There is a bit of play in the prop, but I've never had an issue on any of my motors. I would install it as you described. No need to oil the prop shaft.
Shift rod linkages: As you bolt the lower unit on there should be 3 things coming out of it; the main drive shaft which will be inserted into the underside of the power head, the copper water uptake tube and the lower shift rod. The drive shaft should just slip into the underside of the engine. You, or a friend, may have to rotate the flywheel clockwise slowly by hand to get the splines on the power head and the drive shaft to line up just right. Be sure the spar plugs are removed from both the head gasket and spark plug wires themselves while doing so. The copper water uptake tube also seats on the underside of the power head. It may be hard to see and a flashlight will help, but you should see a rubber grommet on the underside of the power head that the tube goes in. It may be easier to remove it from the lower unit first and install it first by itself, then seat angled end on top of the water pump housing, then sliding the lower unit on with the drive shaft and lower shift rod.
As for the shift rod itself, start by removing the little oval access plate on the exhaust housing. It's pretty tight in there, so a good pair of needle nose pliers will be your friend. You should have a small coupler with two bolt holes in it. One end goes on the end of the upper shift rod with one of the two bolts installed to hold it in place. Take care that the bolt lines up with bevel in the shift rod. You can now flip the gear selector switch to REV thus lowering the upper shift rod. You want the top of the lower shift rod to go into the bottom of the coupler. Again, line the bevel in the lower shift rod with the hole and install the bolt. The upper and lower shift rods should now be joined. To check, flip the motor into FWD. You should see the shift rod being pulled up. Rotate the flywheel CLOCKWISE by hand slowly (again with the spark plugs removed and disconnected from their wires). You should see the prop spin clockwise also. Now flip it into REV. You should see the shift rod pushed down all the way. Again rotate the flywheel clockwise slowly by hand. You should see the prop spin counter clockwise, thus indicating REV. Between the two positions in neutral in which the prop does not spin when the flywheel is rotated. You DO NOT install any 3M between the LU and the exhaust housing. The metal surfaces simply bolt together.
Here's a few links that can walk you through a singe line conversion and a link to a fuel pump, if you need one. There are a couple different methods.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtG4M7ye1N8&feature=related
http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Converting_dual_fuel_line.htm
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/mikunifuelpump1.php
Not exactly sure about the carb swap, but it will probably work (someone correct me if I'm wrong)
You want to use the 3M 847 on the perimeter of the lower unit oil seals and on the spaghetti seal in the lower unit. A little goes along way and it's pretty gloopy, so have some acetone handy to clean up with.
You want to use marine grade TCW-3 lower unit gear oil. You can get it at wal wart, or most auto parts and boating supply stores. You should also get one of the small pumps that is usually sold near by the oil. Here's a vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neYroHtSheQ
Here's a link to a guy rebuilding his entire vintage e-rude. The first few episodes don't have sound for some reason, but the rest do. They're well worth watching and can walk you through an entire rebuild of your LU, carb and ignition.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5WB00GePks&list=UUqtXoVOxjtEKjjTKj0cFydg&index=26&feature=plcp
Here are some more great links too. Holler if you get stuck.
http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...on 3 HP 1952-1967 Ignition System Tune-up.htm
http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...hnson 5.5 HP 1954-1964 Carburetor Tune-UP.htm
