Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Yeah, I'ts in one of the Threads. I'll see if I can find it.

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Thanks WOG I will use my shopvac. I did not try that before because I figured the dust would justclog the filter pretty quickly. Maybe I can make up some sort of cyclone to help save on filters.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Yeah that's what the box contraption is for. Basically you don't use the filter in the shop vac. You put it in a box and cut out 3 sides of the box and tape AC Filiters to the cut outs.Seal the box up and cut a hole for the hose the exhaust from the vac will be captured by the AC filters. It makes a MESS inside the box but... you can vac for a long time and it works well. A friend of mine in the drywall business does this and it works great. Hopefully you can "Picture" what I'm describing cuz I can't find the drawing to save my life. It's on here somewhere and on my PC too just can't find it for some reason.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Hopefully you can "Picture" what I'm describing cuz I can't find the drawing to save my life. It's on here somewhere and on my PC too just can't find it for some reason.

I too am positive I kept the info, the pix & bookmarked the thread... And today ?? ...

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Yeah that's what the box contraption is for. Basically you don't use the filter in the shop vac. You put it in a box and cut out 3 sides of the box and tape AC Filiters to the cut outs.Seal the box up and cut a hole for the hose the exhaust from the vac will be captured by the AC filters. It makes a MESS inside the box but... you can vac for a long time and it works well. A friend of mine in the drywall business does this and it works great. Hopefully you can "Picture" what I'm describing cuz I can't find the drawing to save my life. It's on here somewhere and on my PC too just can't find it for some reason.

Yes, I think I can picture it. Do you put the whole shopvac in the box or just the top part?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

The whole shop vac.... And yes it makes the vac a mess, but keeps the glass dust contained pretty well

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

If you run the vac without a filter it will shoot dust out the exhaust port too! The box with the filters captures that dust and keeps it contained in the box. Really makes a mess but works well.

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Thanks WOG and JB.

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Tarping up boat for the winter. I was thinking of leaving enough room under the tarp to work. Can I grind the fiberglass in below freezing temps or will it be too brittle? I would love to get the grinding done and be ready to bed the stringers as soon as it gets warm enough.
Thanks.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

If you can stand the cold, yes you can grind in the cold.

You can tarp it w/ enough room to work & run a small heater or heat lamps to warm the tent for a bit while you're gearing up.

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Thanks JB. I have had to work on the vehicles in less than 20 degrees more times than I have cared to. So I think I will give it a try. Although when I did that it was out of necessity so i don't know how long I will last. When I am grinding do I need to go down until I see pink? I feel like the hull is thin and if I grind to the pink maybe I am taking off too much. Thanks

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

I don't know that your hull's fiberglass has that much of a pink tint to it, but once you hit the surface w/ a grinder, you will quickly see where you need to stop. You only need to rough & scuff the 'good' glass to promote adhesion between the old & new work. You do not need to grind all the way to the bottom of the weave of the existing glass. If you still have some of the weave showing or the bottom of the waffle texture has not been fully ground, that's ok. You only need to get the surface good & scuffed and leave a sound surface to bond to. Less is more, post some good close pix & many will let you know if it's well ground, or needs a bit more.

That make sense?

My FireFlite hull is crazy thin. The gelcoat has been buffed off the hull so much that there is print thru of the hulls glass weave on 75-80% of the hull. The hull sides are also very flimsy once I lift the cap. I may end up adding a layer of CSM or 2 across the entire interior hull. If you're seems that way to you, you may consider it. I may use 1 CSM layer & if it still seems very insufficient, add a layer of 1708 instead of just a 2nd CSM layer.

I tried to grind in the garage last winter, but had to open the garage door, and that let out any heat I'd built up. I lasted 30-45 min, before the lying in the hull & not moving much, let the cold got to my feet. The tyvek suit kept the rest of me fairly toasty

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

I don't know that your hull's fiberglass has that much of a pink tint to it, but once you hit the surface w/ a grinder, you will quickly see where you need to stop. You only need to rough & scuff the 'good' glass to promote adhesion between the old & new work. You do not need to grind all the way to the bottom of the weave of the existing glass. If you still have some of the weave showing or the bottom of the waffle texture has not been fully ground, that's ok. You only need to get the surface good & scuffed and leave a sound surface to bond to. Less is more, post some good close pix & many will let you know if it's well ground, or needs a bit more.

I hope this picture shows enough. You can see the pink and you can also see the weave of the glass.This area is where the stringer was tabbed in. Do I just need to grind off the tabbing or should I go to the pink. Where the weave is showing feels like good glass. Thanks

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Bump

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

I'd recommend grinding to the Pink. That will ensure proper adhesion when tabbing the stringers back in with new glass.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

WOG's got ya covered^^^^

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

I'd recommend grinding to the Pink. That will ensure proper adhesion when tabbing the stringers back in with new glass.

WOG's got ya covered^^^^

I was afraid you would say that. It took a while to do that small spot. Thanks WOG and JB

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restoration-building-hull-repair/78-ebko-lebaron-therapy-524704-9.html

I found this while checking out troopers rebuild on this page scoll down and youll find Woods post about the dust collector. I really ripped rather quickly on the grinding part using Milwaukee 36 grit disks.

Thanks for the link P.A., were you using a flap disk or a regular grinding disk?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Does your hull have a hook toward the transom? Mine does and I'm not sure if it was built like that or did it develop from sitting on bunks that were too short and with rotten stringers for who knows how long.

The 2nd is much more likely.....

But unless you are running at the limits of your hull's performance, and have maximized the motor's setup & performance, slight hook may not make much difference, IMHO.... But if you have the hull well supported & have just about finished the demo & grinding, did the hook relax any?

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

The 2nd is much more likely.....

But unless you are running at the limits of your hull's performance, and have maximized the motor's setup & performance, slight hook may not make much difference, IMHO.... But if you have the hull well supported & have just about finished the demo & grinding, did the hook relax any?

I still have the hull on the trailer but am seriously considering making a cradle for it after the grinding is done. The only reason I have not made a cradle yet is because I'm afraid of making it wrong and causing deflection and because I dont have any flat ground to put in on. I guess I could build some sort of base, level that, and then make the cradle on top of it.