Transom rebuild questions

[arcee1951]

Re: Transom rebuild questions

The way I did mine was a bit different, I cut the wood to the correct height and then final shape after gluing the 2 pieces of 3/4" together. I would glue them together, sanding the raw edges is always a good thing to keep from having run away splinters while handling the wood. You can always tweak the aluminum channel just a bit too, it's not going to hurt anything if it's just a tiny bit to allow the transom to slide in better. I know that those channels can create one heck of a mechanical bind on the raw wood.

I wouldn't drill out the holes before gluing and the final fit, it leaves room for a mistake.

Ok, water, following your advise. I have the two pieces glued, and will attack again tomorrow. I have some blocks on it for weight, and this afternoon, I'll plug the 18 holes in the boat. I'm a little concerned on getting the angle of 12 boltholes that go through the rear and attach to the inside metal. The outside rear would piece that attaches to the motor is rotted too, but I may be able to make a template. I'm guessing that using a very small bit, and running that through to see if I can find the hole in the metal, would be best? Then jump in and out of the boat to see if I hit the hole? The same issue seems to be the only way to do the drain tubes for the back splash. I'm still thinking that the drain tube holes should be done right away, so they can get treated also?

Thanks.

 

[arcee1951]

Re: Transom rebuild questions

Ok, water, following your advise. I have the two pieces glued, and will attack again tomorrow. I have some blocks on it for weight, and this afternoon, I'll plug the 18 holes in the boat. I'm a little concerned on getting the angle of 12 boltholes that go through the rear and attach to the inside metal. The outside rear would piece that attaches to the motor is rotted too, but I may be able to make a template. I'm guessing that using a very small bit, and running that through to see if I can find the hole in the metal, would be best? Then jump in and out of the boat to see if I hit the hole? The same issue seems to be the only way to do the drain tubes for the back splash. I'm still thinking that the drain tube holes should be done right away, so they can get treated also?

Thanks.

Well, got the 18 holes filled and the transom looks to be well stuck together. I still am wondering if there is a trick to get the right angles drilled, so it hits the metal backing on the inside of the transom. I also noted that there was one thread where someone said to ditch the outside piece of plywood? I'm only using a 50 hp Mariner, but was going to either look for a 1/2 pc of exterior plywood, or use the 3/4" piece, which would mean that I'd have to buy 10 longer ss bolts. Any input here?

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Transom rebuild questions

I glued and screwed two layers of 3/4" together for my transom and its rock solid. It was a little thicker than the stock transom so I had to trim down the upper lip to allow it to slip under the stock transom cap, but it otherwise works great. As for the outer piece of plywood. You don't really "need" it as it doesn't provide any real structural support, but it does protect the hull underneath from being damaged by taking the motor on and off.

 

[arcee1951]

Re: Transom rebuild questions

I glued and screwed two layers of 3/4" together for my transom and its rock solid. It was a little thicker than the stock transom so I had to trim down the upper lip to allow it to slip under the stock transom cap, but it otherwise works great. As for the outer piece of plywood. You don't really "need" it as it doesn't provide any real structural support, but it does protect the hull underneath from being damaged by taking the motor on and off.

Thanks, KFA. I got lucky with all but 4 out of the 12 holes I drilled into the transom that actually hooks to the boat from the outer skin. I broke one bit . I'm guessing the best way to get the other 4 lined up, would be to go to the inside of the boat and drill backwards. then ream it from the outside again.

I'm going with all the sealer/urethane/paint. How much larger shall I make each hole to allow for the stuff that is going down into the holes? I've read to coat each bolt/screw with 5200, which I haven't found yet. Then I've read that, once in, it will be tough to ever get them out, so use a marine caulk. Final word on this?

I'll have to give the JB Weld another coat, as it did sagged down quite a bit. I'll sand it first.

Thanks.

 

[Watermann]

Re: Transom rebuild questions

I used marine silicone not 5200 on my bolts. I wouldn't use the plywood on the outside either. On the hole drilling, I really doubt anyone has done all of their small #10 bolt holes perfectly and didn't end up having to run the bit in again to chew a little bit more wood out, I know I had to.

 

[bigmcgiv]

Re: Transom rebuild questions

very good info, i plan to use it on my project. good luck with yours