Transom Leak Help

[Sunken Ship]

it doesnt look "solid"

Download that video and watch it. Maybe camera angle makes it look swollen as you said. There is no swelling it's actually indented from the pressue at the bottom where the washer plate sits.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Download that video and watch it. Maybe camera angle makes it look swollen as you said. There is no swelling it's actually indented from the pressue at the bottom where the washer plate sits.

I dont download anything to watch, sorry. however looking at the pic tells me enough. I would make test drills to confirm.

 

[Sunken Ship]

Having trouble determining part numbers for the seals. Anyone know where I might find them? It is the SX-M that I believe is dated '98 in a 2000.

Shopping list according to my Clymer manual to reinstall Intermediatte Housing and Transom Shield Bracket:
1. Transom Seal;
2. Exhaust Pipe Seal;
3. Type M Adhesive;
4. Locknuts; and
5. 3M marine sealant 101.

Digging around I found 3M 847 is the same as Type M. Can anyone confirm?

Thinking 3m 5200 for the 101 sealant the manual is calling for. That be OK?

Transom Seal 3852550

Exhaust Pipe Seal 3587651

 

[Scott Danforth]

Dont trust the clymer manual on anything. Go to volvopentastore.com and pick your correct motor/drive for the right parts

 

[JASinIL2006]

Transom sure looks punky…

 

[Grub54891]

If it's not punky it will be in a couple years or sooner. Once they get damp, they never dry out.

 

[Sunken Ship]

Raise your hand if you watched the video. I suppose you guys would change the transom after looking at a photo. A marine mechanic said it was solid I have stabbed the thing repeatedly with a screwdriver as shown in the video and can see it is clearly solid.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Raise your hand if you watched the video.i suppose you guys would change the transom since you are not the one doing it.

I would change the transom if I have to ride in it.

 

[Sunken Ship]

I would change the transom if I have to ride in it.

Sure you would, but you can't even download and watch a video. Seems to be too much to ask of you. Keyboard warrior if I have ever seen one. Been a great help.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Sure you would, but you can't even download and watch a video.

and you cant post the videos as in the tutorials

 

[Sunken Ship]

and you cant post the videos as in the tutorials

"File too large" Type less think more.

Anyway, to answer more of my questions.
Type M (318535) alternatives according to my manual are Scotch Grip 1300 (982551) and Quicksilver Bellows Adhesive (92-86166-1).

 

[jbcurt00]

Its been nearly a year, same opinion you asked for still holds:. The transom is suspect, and numerous members commented as such. The transom will never be easier to replace then it is right now.

Delamination
Bottom Strike
Transom flex
Transom leak

All point in a direction you dont care to hear, doesnt mean its inaccurate.

For 100s of thousands topics pix and a short embedded video or 2 are plenty to help rebuild the posted boat. This topic shouldnt require anyone to download the clip.

No one knows you, no one wants ro download a clip to their computer to try and help guide you for free on their own time and get criticized and have that help disregarded.

The factory service manual is an invaluable asset worth the price. Clymer isnt.

Perhaps you & 1 shop are correct, but if its gotten wet, its likely to dry rot which is still rot whether transom is soft rotten and wet now or not.

And again, it will never be easier to replace then it is right now.

I'd rather replace it and know its good if only because it wont ever be easier

Good luck w your project.

 

[briangcc]

OK...let's go at it a bit differently shall we?

You smacked bottom with the boat which caused your outdrive seal to pop. What caused the seal to pop was that the drive was driven into your fiberglass and with little/no wooden support behind it, it cracked the glass. See the indent from the drive in your glass?? Dark mounting holes for the drive certainly look like there has been a leak going for much longer than you're thinking/reporting.

Had this been a solid transom, that strike more than likely wouldn't have caused the leak.

No matter how much you want to deny it, this isn't a factory foul up. This IS a rotting transom that you need to sample with a drill, not poke at the glass with a screwdriver.

 

[Sunken Ship]

Thanks for trying to help guys, I clearly understand the problem here on an internet forum with just a couple photos.

If the transom was rotten this thing would likely be at the bottom right now. Imagine this....3000lb (approx) at 20 mph (approx) bottomed out on mud where the transom suffers 1/8 inch indentation in the shape of the lower washer plate. Rotten? "No", based upon a marine mechanic's personal inspection. How could a rotten transom ONLY suffer from 1/8' indentation? My unprofessional opinion-from a guy who knows wood rot in boats and has replaced marine plywood before in boats- is that it does not need replaced. The fiberglass mess under the keyhole is not manufacturer "foul up" as suggested it's simply sloppy glasswork. I worked at Mariah boats back in the mid '90s so I know the scene at these boat factories. I am very impressed with the quality of this vessel and would definitely consider a Larson in the future base on my personally owning this Larson. Gelcoat cracking is NOT a failed transom, however there is definitely sloppy glass work being mistaken for damage based on some of the photos. You can see the sloppy work in some of the photos where gelcoat is literally running down like it was poured out of a cup. If the boat had been leaking before it bottomed out why was I NEVER using the bilge pump before.

I suppose it is impossible to get a good opinion here as to whether or not this transom is rotten when members here can't personally inspect or even watch a 1 minute video. I seriously doubt many here calling for replacement would actually replace this transom in this boat upon personal inspection. Obviously, you would continue to assert your position even if you did watch the video rather than change your mind after repeated calls to change the entire transom based on a couple of photos. The marine mechanic that did look at the boat indicated it is "solid" as I quoted when it was inspected last year. The inside key on this is not coated with glass after the key is cutout, which indicates that Brian was not able to see me stabbing at "fiberglass" when I was stabbing at uncovered wood (some gelcoat ) with a sharp screwdriver.

Everyone here is afraid to download that video? I have been a member since when? 2014. Now I am here trying to give everyone a virus?

Manual (Clymer) indicates 25 ft.lb for the six nuts holding the intermediate housing to the transom. I am well aware of the pressure of 25ft.lb and 100% confident that this wood will easily hold 25ft. lbs.

I do value some of the experience here at the forums as some very knowledgeable people come here and are willing to share the knowledge with fellow members. This is a perfect example of why shops always say "you are going to need to bring it in so we can look at it" as pictures and words just don't tell the story.

Again, thanks for trying to help but this is a good example of one reason why we must question what we hear on the internet. It is not your guys' fault though as I have only given a few photos fo you to base your opinions on. At this point I am just going to put it back together correctly-based on my Clymer's manual since the transom is solid based on my personal inspection and a marine mechanic's personal inspection. Tearing this boat down and personally inspecting was really the only way to properly determine the damage and cause of the leak.

 

[todhunter]

Upload it you YouTube and post the link. Your original link from ufile.io is pretty sketchy looking.

 

[Wildey]

Did your pro mechanic advise against drilling it ? for fear of what you might find ?
Mine says it should be drilled to verify.
Easy enough to do.

 

[Scott Danforth]

make the test drills and get the answer. its been almost a year and everyone has told you the same thing.

 

[Grub54891]

Ok. I simply tried to download the video. I took the chance. Well, it wanted me to sing in, and more steps to look at it and so I decided to stop there. just cut your video and put it up on here to let us see what it is.

 

[briangcc]

So inquiring minds...when you reassemble it and it still leaks, because no where in that diatribe did I see that you're planning on fixing the indent, what's your next step? Slather some sillycone on the housing and call it done? And when that fails?

If it were me, and I saw that mess, I'd fix it right with the motor/drive out rather than doing my work multiple times.

 

[Sunken Ship]

Ok. I simply tried to download the video. I took the chance. Well, it wanted me to sing in, and more steps to look at it and so I decided to stop there. just cut your video and put it up on here to let us see what it is.

Click "Free Download" then "slow is fine"