Transom Hairline Crack & Clearcoat Peel

[Frenchy93]

Hi guys, I found a rather rare boat that I would love to grab but there is a couple issues with it that really need to be addressed, One is the two cracks on the top of the motor mounts through the transom. The owner says this just happened at the end of last year and he is positive that there is no rot anywhere in the boat.

Second of all, as you can see the clearcoat has pealed quite a bit - what am I getting into bringing the boat back to life?

If the transom is not rotted what are my options for addressing this issue before it gets worse/what caused this in the first place?

Keep in mind the boat is a 1983

 

[Scott Danforth]

Nice looking fuel burner.

The crack in the gel is a concern. My guess is the wood is rotten in that area

The peeling clear may be gel, most likely is paint.

If you love the boat - buy it with the very high probability of it needing a full gut and restoration.

Assume stringers, transom, and a full paint job.

 

[Frenchy93]

Nice looking fuel burner.

The crack in the gel is a concern. My guess is the wood is rotten in that area

The peeling clear may be gel, most likely is paint.

If you love the boat - buy it with the very high probability of it needing a full gut and restoration.

Assume stringers, transom, and a full paint job.

Scott, do you figure its a clear paint over top of the gelcoat that could be sanded off and re-cleared?

If what the guy says is true he says the boat is completely dry with no rot. I too am confused as to how it cracks without rot?

I'm assuming a stringer job on a simple boat like this would not be too bad. And I may just want to do it for piece of mind.

 

[Scott Danforth]

If it's paint, whole paint job would most likely need to be redone. If its gel, may be able to save some of it. However metal flake doesn't like to be resanded (it looks like crap).

As stated prior. Assume a full repaint, and a full gut and restoration. Of you get by with less work, it's a bonus.

Transoms don't crack unless they have been compromised by rot or termites or collision or mortar fire or supernatural forces.

 

[Frenchy93]

If it's paint, whole paint job would most likely need to be redone. If its gel, may be able to save some of it. However metal flake doesn't like to be resanded (it looks like crap).

As stated prior. Assume a full repaint, and a full gut and restoration. Of you get by with less work, it's a bonus.

Transoms don't crack unless they have been compromised by rot or termites or collision or mortar fire or supernatural forces.

You are confusing me. That yellow under the flaking clear is gelcoat is it not? it's not a painted boat I don't think?

 

[Scott Danforth]

The yellow is most likely gel. The glittery early 80s multi collored and metal flake graphics may be gel, may be paint ( most likely paint) Either way, plan on repainting everything from the belt line up at a minimum.

You need to accept and prepare for the fact that this boat will take a lot of work, and hope it doesn't. The other way around leads to a half finished project in your back yard and an unhappy significant other

 

[Frenchy93]

The yellow is most likely gel. The glittery early 80s multi collored and metal flake graphics may be gel, may be paint ( most likely paint) Either way, plan on repainting everything from the belt line up at a minimum.

You need to accept and prepare for the fact that this boat will take a lot of work, and hope it doesn't. The other way around leads to a half finished project in your back yard and an unhappy significant other

I got what youre saying now! Yes, that does look like paint now that you say it.

Looks like something that vinyl would make a good replacement for.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Vinyl wrap needs a good surface to adhere to.

 

[Woodonglass]

Here's how you test the transom. Raise the motor up, then stand on the lower leg and bounce. Have a friend observe the cracked areas. If the flex, even just a little bit, then the transom is compromised and will need to be replaced. Trying to remove the clear coat and leave the base coat unharmed is nearly impossible. As SD stated you should be prepared to sand the entire boat down and apply a New Paint job to the entire boat.

Be advised...Boats of this vintage, unless they've had impeccable care, usually require a full restoration. SD is correct in that you should be prepared. To replace the stringers, bulkheads, motor mounts and transom you're looking at 200 man hours of work and $1500 to $3000 in materials cost.

 

[Frenchy93]

I really appreciate the info guys.

I got some more info on the boat today, the guy said he is positive there is no rot and any professional will tell me so, he believes the crack is simply from age and rough waters. he said the crack started at the end of last summer and he hasn't use it much in fear of it soaking up water. He also mentioned the boat has never been stored in the water.

He also said the clear coat was put on by his father in law many years ago and that the graphics on the boat are gelcoat and not paint.

I'm torn, I want the boat so bad but I'm scared at the same time, he wants $8500 Canadian for the boat.

 

[ondarvr]

There are probably hundreds of examples on this forum of people buying boats where the owner said it was lake ready, in great shape, no rot, ran great the last time they had it out, etc, only find out the boat needs an entire gut and rebuild, or has a severely damaged motor. Was the prior owner knowingly not telling the truth, or just unaware of the actual condition...it makes no difference, the damage needs to be repaired.

Back to this boat, whether the crack is from rot, or just fatigue, it doesn't really make a big difference, it needs to be repaired, all of the affected wood will need to be replaced and reglassed. The peeling clear might be easy to fix, or could be difficult, a little bit of work will let you know quickly. Peeling clear coat like this is very common.

If I liked the boat I would probably get it, you won't find one like this as often as you would an old Bayliner, but I would plan on having to do a good bit of work before launching it. If you don't need to do much work it would great.

 

[Scott Danforth]

8500 Canadian is a bit steep considering the work needed. If the owner is willing to guarantee no rot, have him cover the cost of a marine survey if any structural issues are found. This will be your negotiating point.

Cool boat, however plan on a gut and full restoration.

 

[Woodonglass]

If the underlying surface is Gelcoat then you might be able to remove the clear coat with a chemical stripper. It WON'T hurt the Gelcoat. If the PO is Certain there's nothing wrong with the transom then he won't mind if you Bounce on the motor to see if it flexes. Good solid transoms WON'T flex a bit.

 

[harleyman1975]

You could maybe take it to a marine surveyor but regardless of whether it is broken transom or rotted transom it will need to be replaced. Big job either way. I would not do it personally. I see a $4500 paint job in someone's future...not to mention all the work to repair the transom. Cool old pickle fork though.

 

[spoilsofwar]

Under no circumstances could that be considered a "hairline crack". The feathery fingers on the right of the crack in picture two are hairline/stress cracks... On the other hand, that huge crack directly above the jack plate bolts is Indicative of a serious issue which doesn't occur in a vacuum.

Can't think of any reason for the transom to look that way except abnormal flex caused by a weak core.

At $8500, even CAD, I'd pass.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

If he is "positive" there is no rot on his boat and claim that any professional will confirm, then ask him to pay for the boat to be surveyed by a marine surveyor of your choice; I am positive he will refuse.

Make a bet with him that if the surveyor finds no rot in the transom, stringers and bulkheads, you will pick up the bill, I am positive he will also refuse.

Ask him to pick up half of the bill if the surveyor finds rot, he will tell you that you are too much headache for him and he really doesn't have to sell it at all. This roughly translates to "this guy is not an idiot and I will not be able to screw him"

With very few exceptions, all sellers lie. There are two very common methods to figure out when they start lying

1. Ask them to put their money where their mouth is or
2. Watch for their lips to start moving

So, from the outset, have zero confidence in whatever he is telling you and find everything out yourself. You will be doing this anyway so better now than latter.

This boat – most likely – is a complete restore project. It is OK to get it as a project if you want it that bad but pay no more for it than you should. If you pay 8500 to buy it and it requires 8500 to restore, you will have to choose between writing off the 8500 or continue throwing good money after bad and end up with a gas guzzler that is not worth half what you paid for it.

Be smart. Don’t get emotional about these things. Plenty of good vessels out there to pick and choose from.

 

[Frenchy93]

If he is "positive" there is no rot on his boat and claim that any professional will confirm, then ask him to pay for the boat to be surveyed by a marine surveyor of your choice; I am positive he will refuse.

Make a bet with him that if the surveyor finds no rot in the transom, stringers and bulkheads, you will pick up the bill, I am positive he will also refuse.

Ask him to pick up half of the bill if the surveyor finds rot, he will tell you that you are too much headache for him and he really doesn't have to sell it at all. This roughly translates to "this guy is not an idiot and I will not be able to screw him"

With very few exceptions, all sellers lie. There are two very common methods to figure out when they start lying

1. Ask them to put their money where their mouth is or
2. Watch for their lips to start moving

So, from the outset, have zero confidence in whatever he is telling you and find everything out yourself. You will be doing this anyway so better now than latter.

This boat – most likely – is a complete restore project. It is OK to get it as a project if you want it that bad but pay no more for it than you should. If you pay 8500 to buy it and it requires 8500 to restore, you will have to choose between writing off the 8500 or continue throwing good money after bad and end up with a gas guzzler that is not worth half what you paid for it.

Be smart. Don’t get emotional about these things. Plenty of good vessels out there to pick and choose from.

I'm going to call around shortly and get pricing on a survey and run it by the guys, if he is not willing I'm running.

 

[Frenchy93]

If the underlying surface is Gelcoat then you might be able to remove the clear coat with a chemical stripper. It WON'T hurt the Gelcoat. If the PO is Certain there's nothing wrong with the transom then he won't mind if you Bounce on the motor to see if it flexes. Good solid transoms WON'T flex a bit.

I have read quite a few threads on here of people removing the clearcoat and re-buffing the clearcoat with a good outcome.

 

[Frenchy93]

So I talked to two surveyors, one wanted $350 the other wanted 17$/foot. One said there is a possibility that something has de-laminated due to wear and tear but often it is from rot (as many of you have said)

Say I get it checked out and there is infact no rot - what are my options for fixing this? Could I simply inject with resin and press everything back together and reinforce the transom? I'm not scared at all of putting work into the boat I would just really not get to re-doing the transom.

In the long term, I would like to restore this boat back to the way it was purchased.

 

[jbcurt00]

Say I get it checked out and there is infact no rot - what are my options for fixing this? Could I simply inject with resin and press everything back together and reinforce the transom?

No, remove the transom and replace

To do that, you need to separate the upper hull from the lower. The joint is behind the black rubber insert and aluminum rub rail channel running around the boat.