transom and floor replacement

[bowlin257]

Re: transom and floor replacement

I replaced the transom in my boat and did it all from the top by cutting the glass away over the rotted plywood core. Replaced it with cdx exterior plywood, layered and epoxy glued to within 1/8 or so of orginal thickness. Then encapuslated the whole new core in epoxy. Bought 5 gal of epoxy, used 1.3 gal in the transom and 3 gal in coating the new wood floors on both sides (2 coats) and replacing the stringers with new wood and glassing them in. Ended up using a total of 4 gal. Learned alot on getting the old wood out and the new in and it was really not all that difficult. Job is done and strong or stronger than new.

 

[garrett61]

Re: transom and floor replacement

wow ive used like 8-10 gallons of resin...<br />Stringers,transom,deck. I did however glass the wood

 

[bigbad 4cyl x2]

Re: transom and floor replacement

start grinding out the transome wich might take awhile . look for deals on ebay on some cloth . get some west system 4.35 gallon jugs from jamestown dist on the net . get some slow hardener . go to west marine and educate your self at there epoxy section. hire border buddies off the corner to do your grinding after your first day and then after you wake up itching , remember the border buddies for grinding. use marine grade for transome and then ext a/b for stringers /deck . i used all epoxy and all marine grade and all stainless screws i ordered through the west marine store . get the square drive screws to attach the layers of plywood in the transome they drive better than philips. in making your transome tight consider some all rod cut in lengths and passed through to outerside of hull with washers to clamp and tighten pulling the 1st plywood layer tight against the inside of the transome when reduing.

 

[mikemartyo]

Re: transom and floor replacement

what about temperatures for fiberglassing - is there a low temp where i shouldnt think about working on this?<br />right now i am ready to glass the wood to the outside skin. but it is getting to be in the low 30 s at night and i am waiting for some warmer weather.

 

[sdunt]

Re: transom and floor replacement

If you are using Polyester, the temperature when you are working is should be over 60 degrees. But you can work it at lower temperatures provided you apply some external head like a heat lamp or those 500 watt work lamps. I have done 'glass work in 40 degree temps with heat lamps and it works fine..

 

[andy6374]

Re: transom and floor replacement

I am currently redoing my transom. If you put a space heater next to the wet fiberglass under a tarp it can get quite warm in there. It's working for me thus far. Although I am working on 50+ degree days and if the sun goes down this is the alternative I'm using.

 

[LUISJGC]

Re: transom and floor replacement

i read all this recomendations about diferent woods but how about a non wood substitute,<br />like the ones they use now days on cero wood boats,, its somekind of foam board.<br /> anyone has the knoledge to comment on this ????

 

[BillP]

Re: transom and floor replacement

All you have to do to polyester to work in cold temps is add more catalyst...double, tripple, whatever amount it takes to kick it off.

 

[mikemartyo]

Re: transom and floor replacement

well - saturday i "tested" and sunday i glassed in the transom. it hardened nicely. i am very happy with the results. <br />now i have to attack the floor - maybe tonight.<br />i am only worrying about the main section, the bow seems strong and i dont want to worry about in front of the steering wheel.<br /><br />i will send pictures when i figure it out.

 

[mikemartyo]

Re: transom and floor replacement

Woo eee - got the floor out - need to clean up the sides - rotten floors are nice. my circular saw was unhappy with me. but when i got it out, i was able to cut it into pieces with my chain saw - that was much faster.<br />hope to get more done this weekend.

 

[andy6374]

Re: transom and floor replacement

Originally posted by BillP:<br /> All you have to do to polyester to work in cold temps is add more catalyst...double, tripple, whatever amount it takes to kick it off.

Not true. I wouldn't recommend below 45. If its too cold it will never cure properly and if it doesn't start to "gel" within a certain window, it never will. In cold temps I've seen the catalyst MEKP (METHYL ETHYL KEYTONE PEROXIDE) evaporate.

 

[BillP]

Re: transom and floor replacement

Originally posted by andy6374:<br />

Originally posted by BillP:<br /> All you have to do to polyester to work in cold temps is add more catalyst...double, tripple, whatever amount it takes to kick it off.

Not true. I wouldn't recommend below 45. If its too cold it will never cure properly and if it doesn't start to "gel" within a certain window, it never will. In cold temps I've seen the catalyst MEKP (METHYL ETHYL KEYTONE PEROXIDE) evaporate.

Ya just might want to let all the production facilities who have been glassing in 40F temps for decades know it doesn't work. But to support my statement I'll put it this way...I have 1000s of gals of polyester & epoxy glassing under my belt. I'm not guessing about anything and not getting my info out of a book, off a web page or from another person. I did enough production glassing in 40-45F to know it works and is nothing special. Success with polyester in cold temps is dictated by mixing to meet temp and humidity. MEK evaporating isn't an issue unless you leave the cap off the jug.

 

[BrettNC]

Re: transom and floor replacement

BillP is correct. MEKP is known as an accelerator to the natural curing process of resin. As long as the thinner can escape, polyester resin will cure on it's own, it just takes an extremely long time (months, years) without some extra help . Polyester will cure properly and quickly with enough MEKP, even in the 40 degree range, sometimes even lower.<br /><br />There may be a situation where you add only enough hardener for moderate (60 degrees) temperatures, when the temperature in fact may be only 40 degrees. Once the temperature reaches 60 degrees, the resin will begin to cure substantially. The window for this can be up to a couple of days from what I have experienced, possibly even longer.

 

[andy6374]

Re: transom and floor replacement

Whoaaaa. Bill, I wasn't trying to say anything about your experience as a boat builder at all. If it came across that way, my apoligies. You certainly have many more years of fiberglass experience than I. <br /><br />The shop in which I get my fiberglass supplies from told me of this problem. He works in Maine on the weekends building boats for pleasure. He said one night (Sun. night) when he was done he couldn't leave the heat on in the barn because he had to get back home (different state). He said that when he went back the next weekend and the resin had never hardened and it appeared that the MEKP had evaporated. <br /><br />Now I know he has 30+ years experience and this is where I was "took" the info from. I wasn't trying to start a workmanship war, rather I was just trying to give Michael some heads up.<br /><br />Good luck.

 

[BillP]

Re: transom and floor replacement

No problem. I think that boatbuilder let the temp drop too much after he mixed for higher temps. Even 5 degrees of temp change makes a huge difference. If you don't wait too long after glassing just spritz mek on the surface and it will kick. Do this when it "should have kicked by now" but didn't.

 

[zuke]

Re: transom and floor replacement

in an earlier post mike o says he replaced his transom, i have a boat that the floor is all rotted out and i am going to replace it , and i have allready started tearing it up. my question is, how do you get the old transom out, and how does the new one get fastened in and stay strong enough for the motor? if i should make a new post for this let me know. or also, just direct me to the right posting.<br />thanks guys.

 

[andy6374]

Re: transom and floor replacement

Zuke-<br />Start a new thread. <br /><br />In a nutshell:<br />However, transoms are fiberglassed into the boat not fastened. To get it out you have to grind and cut away the existing fiberglass skin and dig the old core out. Then replace with new core and new glass.

 

[mikemartyo]

Re: transom and floor replacement

Zuke,<br />i cut the top of my deck out - from the splashwell back. i left the outside skin on, and the old wood almost fell onto the floor.<br /><br />i bought the book Runabout renovation. it is very interesting and tells you almost everything you need to know.<br />mike

 

[mikemartyo]

Re: transom and floor replacement

more pictures<br /> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=18um5tsi.2dnb8ugi&x=0&h=1&y=3g6ny5 <br /><br />went with non pressure treated for the floor, cut in a ski locker and i am waiting for some more fiberglass to arrive. <br />the splashwell is just sitting there, i can do some finish work while i wait.<br />i ordered some pourable foam from jgreer.com - holy cow what a neat product. i compared the weight of new vs. old and you can feel the weight difference. The old foam is really wet.