Trailer Rollers

[76SeaRay]

My trailer is a 1976 Shorelandr but not sure of the model number (SS-RB 2150T, 2450T, 2465T or 2665T). I am guessing it is the 2150 or 2450 assuming the length is coded into the model number as it holds my 22ft 1976 Sea Ray. I don't know the history on the boat and trailer but also assuming they were both purchased together. Anyway, now that the boat is off the trailer, I need to restore the trailer (paint and rollers). I have already replaced the brake assemblies, put on new brake lines, and put on all new lights and wiring. So, my question comes to replacing the rollers. The rollers appear to be originals from 1976 and are the black rubber type. These appear to be starting to fall apart from old age and have left marks on the hull. The keel rollers are split in some areas. The keel rollers are a shallow support angle with the rear roller 18 inches wide. The boat weighs around 3600 lbs dry.

What type and brand of roller should I buy to replace these?

Are the keel rollers available in different angle of "V"?

Do the rollers have different durometer for various boat weights?

Thanks..

 

[cyclops222]

How great is the frame metal ? Rust thru in weld locations ? Rusty roller brackets ? I change keel & bow rollers to the very tough yellow Polyurethane type. Rest can be anything.

 

[76SeaRay]

Some surface rust inside some of the C channel members but altogether not really rusted. Somewhere along the way someone had sprayed rattle can over the whole thing to cover the original paint. I think they did that as surface rust started to show. I may sandblast the inside of the C channel and hand sand the rest.

The old rollers have flat spotted for sitting so long with the boat on it. I did replace the bow roller right at the bow eye and tightened it down to keep the bow from bouncing pulling it down the road. I used the yellow poly roller their and after about five years (while I have been doing the cut and gut), that roller has a flat spot on it as well. I looked around the internet it looks like the majority of keel rollers are rubber especially the 18 inch ones. I need one 18 inch, two 12 inch, one 8 inch and one 6 inch just for the keel rollers that are 3 inch diameter as they all are cracked and won't roll.

The rear of the trailer has a carriage assembly that tilt swivels to the sides and I think is supposed to tilt swivel forward and back. Those rollers are just round flat rollers about 4 inches long and about 4 inches in diameter. They appear to be "wobble" rollers and are all free to roll. Problem is there are 32 of them in carriage assembly so going to be expensive. None of them are cracked so maybe I can "recondition" those instead of replacing them.

This is sure hard to describe without being able to post pictures.......

 

[airshot]

I stopped using the black rubber rollers years back, they never lasted me more than a couple years. I have all the yellow poly rollers, never had one fail in all my years using them. Yep, more expensive, but once and done or you will be replacing them often. Wobble rollers typically last longer than keel rollers so you might get away with keeping yours.

 

[76SeaRay]

Thanks, I will get the yellow poly for the keel rollers. Is the "V" angle just standard on all these keel rollers and just varies with width?

 

[cyclops222]

I have never seen a selection of different V angles and widths.

 

[airshot]

Thanks, I will get the yellow poly for the keel rollers. Is the "V" angle just standard on all these keel rollers and just varies with width?

On many occasions the different widths also mean different diameters. I have used bow roller-stops as keel rollers before. All depends on my needs.

 

[cyclops222]

The bow rollers are always thicker and tougher. Look that way.

 

[JimS123]

Thanks, I will get the yellow poly for the keel rollers. Is the "V" angle just standard on all these keel rollers and just varies with width?

The only keel rollers I will ever use are the poly rollers that are "self centering".

 

[cyclops222]

I also use guide on vertical pipes. 4 on each bigger trailer. They allow a easy perfect ride. Right into the bow chock. Wind or current.

 

[76SeaRay]

Thanks for the info. After searching I find that there are poly urethane, poly vinyl, and thermoplastic (TPR). So, as I understand, the poly urethane ones are the best out of all of these if I don't use rubber?

 

[Black58]

Don't use the rubber junk, everyone has told you. I just put all new rollers on this trailer. The long rollers were black poly all others are the yellow. I got mine from Eastern Marine. Only because they had just what I needed and I didn't have to look for parts at other places. Mine were all the old rubber, all of them were cracked or flat.

 

[76SeaRay]

Thanks I don't plan to put rubber back on but which poly type is best, urethane, vinyl or thermoplastic?

 

[dingbat]

Thanks I don't plan to put rubber back on but which poly type is best, urethane, vinyl or thermoplastic?

Had TRP rollers on my last trailer before switching to bunks.
15+ years with a #4,800 boat sitting on them. Still looked like new

 

[cyclops222]

I do not think any of us knows which plastic is really the best. How would we find out ? Who is honest enough ?
Good side of this is, the rollers are covered by the boat. Most of the time.

 

[76SeaRay]

Thanks. Guess I will go with poly urethane then. I found all but one of the sizes I need. There seem to be 5 inch rollers but one of mine is 5 1/4 inch and that one is out of stock.

 

[cyclops222]

Install the rollers you have. 1 or 2 missing will not cause any problem. Have fun adjusting all the brackets. Remember the rollers under the engine beams & drive take the most weight as time goes by. All others are for stability on the highway.
The keel is the strongest part of the hull. You have to roll the hull up to the now block and chain it in place. To prevent a roll off.
Do grease the bolts the rollers roll on !!

 

[76SeaRay]

By the way, is there a procedure somewhere for adjusting rollers and bunks? I made measurements before removing everything (trailer is now completely disassembled) so I can get them pretty close to where they were when I reinstall. Don't know if they were correct to begin with but everything looks like it is factory original from 1976.

 

[cyclops222]

I get the boat SUPPORTED ONLY by the keel and bow rollers first. the start leveling the boat to the FLAT ground surface under the trailer.
WAIT!!!!!! fill all tires to the same pressure. Then start the leveling. It is NOT NOT critical. Eyeball level is good enough.

 

[76SeaRay]

I wish I could post a picture right now. Anyway, my transom and engine area is supported by a wobble roller carriage assembly (32 wobble rollers). Going forward from there I have an 18 inch roller, a 12 inch roller, and a 12 inch roller. In front of those I have a tilt up/down roller assembly with an 8 inch roller in the back and a 5 1/4 inch roller at the front. From there the bow settles onto a "V" or almost "U" shaped support with a hard rubber on a steel mounting plate. Port and starboard both have a 2x4 bunk running from the area of the 12 inch roller to the area of the tilt rollers. The 18 inch and 12 inch rollers support the keel where the 60 gallon fuel tank sits.

only So, I follow what you are saying about supported by the keel but how do you get the keel rollers all adjusted to the right height? I am thinking I might need to set the wobble carriage in the back to where it was then load the boat with the front roller where it was before disassembly. After that bring the other rollers up to firmly set against the keel and use the bunks to set it level with firm pressure on both. Does this sound right?

Probably doesn't do much good but I posted a couple of pictures (poor shots) on another thread way back when..... About halfway down in the thread.

Lifting Boat off Trailer

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