Trailer issues

limitout

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Re: Trailer issues

you were told wrong... the board gives virtually no support at all past where the bunk support is... you can hang em out there as far as you want but the transom should be right at the bracket if you want it supported

I suppose it all depends on the weight load involved because the board is not just going to snap off like a toothpick so it does in fact have strength and support beyond the bracket support point and just how far out that is going to be depends on the weight of the boat but it isn't much more then a few inches im sure. the larger the boat the more critical it is not to have any overhang of the brackets and the lighter the boat the more overhang you can safely allow. I might go as much as 6" on a flatboat or a boat like the OP has but not a heavy fiberglass hull boat.
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: Trailer issues

the board will flex... the bottom of the boat SHOULD not... if you are flexing the bottom of the boat you are not treating it well

ALUM is less sensitive to a point because it doesn't generally take a set from being slightly flexed but a 2x4 extending 6" will measurably flex from me stepping on it.... I suppose if your boat is 100 lbs all up then maybe but the op's boat is heavy enough that the extending 2x4 will do nothing for it
 

zippy83

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Re: Trailer issues

you were told wrong... the board gives virtually no support at all past where the bunk support is... you can hang em out there as far as you want but the transom should be right at the bracket if you want it supported

That said, if I read zippy's question right he was actually asking a totally different question... I beleive he was asking if he could set up a second set of bunks beside the old ones and then remove the old ones after launching the boat

Yes that would be ok but would be a LOT more work than just launching the boat in the yard to put the new bunks on and I think you are probably better off with them inboard of the strakes like they are now

looking at your pic you need to move that boat forward on the trailer though.. you have quite a bit of overhang... not good

Yes, that was exacly my question. I think I will leave the bunks where they are now.. As for the boat hanging a little off that is because I was moving the front roller backwards 12" so the whole boat moved a few inches durring that process. When its all the way on the trailer it sitts completley on the bunks with an inch of extra space on the bunk. I have even made the new bunks a little longer so I may have 2" of free space once completley on it...
 

zippy83

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Re: Trailer issues

ok so just noticed another little problem. When I moved back the roller as suggested I also raised the boat 2" higher, now I cant get the boat onto the bow stop. I cant raise the bow stop any higher. Pictures are attached.

11.jpg12.jpg

What do I do Now?
Thanks
Zipp

After looking at it some more I could raise the bow stop 2" but I would only have one screw holding it in place istead of two...
 
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limitout

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smokeonthewater

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Re: Trailer issues

eh, just step on the tongue, grab the bow stop, n bend it up a couple inches.... If you aren't quite up the the task, find a cornfed country boy to help ya out... If you feel like a 6 hour drive east I'll do it for ya
 

zippy83

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Re: Trailer issues

eh, just step on the tongue, grab the bow stop, n bend it up a couple inches.... If you aren't quite up the the task, find a cornfed country boy to help ya out... If you feel like a 6 hour drive east I'll do it for ya

That is actually not bad idea. I dont ever ram the bow up against it... Usually just crank the few inches manually. I will give it a shot :)
 

GA_Boater

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Re: Trailer issues

If you're a 98 pound weakling :)D) or can't find one of the country boys Smoke mentions, use a chunk of 2X4 and a jack on the tongue to raise the stop a couple of inches.
 

dingbat

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Re: Trailer issues

I was told its ok to have as much as 12" of board extending beyond where the bracket support is and the board still retains its full strength and stiffness
It may be OK as in tolerable deflection, but it's physically impossible for it to keep its full strength and stiffness.

Everything defects, either under load or under it's own weight. For every unit length you cantilever a beam the deflection for a given load increases by a factor of 3. 1 unit =3, 2 units = 9, 3 units = 27, 4 units = 64,........12 units =1,728

BTW: unless two objects have the same moment of inertia and modulus of elasticity the two objects are going to flex separately no matter what do.;)
 

banshee owner

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Re: Trailer issues

what if you just flip the bow stop and crank over or move the bow stop to the bottom below the crank looks like theres another hole below the crank
 
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Grandad

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Re: Trailer issues

I would definitely turn the winch over. As things are right now, your winch is pulling downward as you load your boat which is inefficient. Next, I'd improve the bowstop design. Even a 16' boat has considerable weight and momentum if you need to stop quickly or worse if you rear end someone. Ask me how I know this. Anything wimpy enough that you can bend to where you want, will bend wherever it wants, just when you need it the most. You might try something like in the picture below of my setup. - Grandad
 
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limitout

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Re: Trailer issues

what if you just flip the bow stop and crank over or move the bow stop to the bottom below the crank looks like theres another hole below the crank

if the bow stop is under the bow eye there is nothing to keep the bow in place and it will bounce unless you create a way to solidly secure it from lifting up.

the bow eye being locked under the bow roller is what keeps everything fixed in place.


I would definitely turn the winch over. As things are right now, your winch is pulling downward as you load your boat which is inefficient. Next, I'd improve the bowstop design. Even a 16' boat has considerable weight and momentum if you need to stop quickly or worse if you rear end someone. Ask me how I know this. Anything wimpy enough that you can bend to where you want, will bend wherever it wants, just when you need it the most. You might try something like in the picture below of my setup. - Grandad

I agree, that's an excellent point I hadn't thought about, that small flat bar is not going to deflect or hold the boat even in a low speed collision and the winch alignment while not that bad, it still isn't correct and should be changed so its easier and less stress on things to winch up the boat.

he can easily make a bracket like is added to yours so the bow stop can be adjusted to the correct height. this can be done by going to home depot and buying two 4ft lengths of 1/8" thick 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" galv angle iron and drill holes as needed to recreate what you have.
 
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zippy83

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Re: Trailer issues

if the bow stop is under the bow eye there is nothing to keep the bow in place and it will bounce unless you create a way to solidly secure it from lifting up.

the bow eye being locked under the bow roller is what keeps everything fixed in place.




I agree, that's an excellent point I hadn't thought about, that small flat bar is not going to deflect or hold the boat even in a low speed collision and the winch alignment while not that bad, it still isn't correct and should be changed so its easier and less stress on things to winch up the boat.

he can easily make a bracket like is added to yours so the bow stop can be adjusted to the correct height. this can be done by going to home depot and buying two 4ft lengths of 1/8" thick 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" galv angle iron and drill holes as needed to recreate what you have.

Question? Why use a peace of steal that is in a 90 degree angle? I understand that only one side will have holes that will hold it in place..
Could I use this instead?

Or should I look for a square tube some place?

image.jpg
 
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Bondo

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Re: Trailer issues

Question? Why use a peace of steal that is in a 90 degree angle? I understand that only one side will have holes that will hold it in place..
Could I use this instead?

Or should I look for a square tube some place?

View attachment 217018

Ayuh,.... Because Structure is Strength,....

Flat stock only has strength in 2 directions,...

Angle iron is strong in 4 directions,...
 

zippy83

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Re: Trailer issues

Ayuh,.... Because Structure is Strength,....

Flat stock only has strength in 2 directions,...

Angle iron is strong in 4 directions,...

Hello I am not a big fan of using an angle.

What if I could find the same Iron tube that is in the picture provided by Grandad?

I have found a local steel comany that has the following options:

Rectangular:

48"L x .125 thick 2" wide and 1" height
48"L x .125 thick 3" wide and 11/2" height
48"L x .125 thick 4" wide and 2" height

Square:

48"L x .125 Thick 2" x 2"
48"L x .188 Thick 4" x 4"
 

zippy83

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Re: Trailer issues

I also took the advise and turned the winch over as suggested, however I don't think that this will work.. I can crank in but when I flip the switch it dosent lock into place, I have not thought about that until I was done. is there anything I can do? Is that little peace for sale anywhere that will work with this upside down?
so basically I am cranking in backwards instead of forwards...

112.jpg
 
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zippy83

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Re: Trailer issues

ok I am over thinking this by a lot. This time I did it right. This is how it looks now. Still not 100% leveled but looks to me better then it was before. If it needs to be more up I could probably find some 1/4" thick steel that I could bolt on an extension about 2" if need to be. That would give me one bolt in the main post and the other on the extension.

1234.jpg



Thanks
Zipp
 
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