Trailer Brakes

[demarko210]

Question about a seized caliper. If one caliper is sticking and drove about 8 miles without the boat on the trailer, should I replace both calipers, rotors and pads or just one side? Or would a rebuild kit be a better option and would I need to rebuild both calipers and get new pads.
Also can galvanized rotors be turned?

 

[Scott Danforth]

rotors are fairly cheap.

is it the piston sticking or the slider pins?

 

[demarko210]

@Scott Danforth
I have not taking apart yet. I notice smoke when I stopped at the light about 4 miles from where I keep the trailer. I stop and observed the smoke coming from the right front wheel. I walked home got my grease gun and jacked it up. Putting grease in while turning the wheel would not spin all the way freely. It would do about a half turn. Other side with the brakes spins freely but noisy.

After pumping the grease back in I decided not to finish my route to home depot and turned the trailer around and went back to the parking spot. When I got back it was not smoking from the return trip but it was the hottest hub out of the 4. The rotor does not seem to have an uneven wear in it may have been the bearings.

I have integral rotors which I am going to switch if I need to replace them. They run about 100 each 254 with caliper on eastern marine. I was thinking if I have a issue with bearings on the road I would need to repack on the side of the highway. I would rather have 2 piece rotors and just pop the spare hub on and go. With the two piece if a caliper locks, I probably can disconnect the brakes on the axle string them up and just run on the hubs to get home.

 

[demarko210]

BTW nothing is cheap for anything dealing with marine.

 

[dingbat]

@Scott Danforth
I have integral rotors which I am going to switch if I need to replace them. They run about 100 each 254 with caliper on eastern marine. I was thinking if I have a issue with bearings on the road I would need to repack on the side of the highway. I would rather have 2 piece rotors and just pop the spare hub on and go. With the two piece if a caliper locks, I probably can disconnect the brakes on the axle string them up and just run on the hubs to get home.

I have integral rotors as well but just carry a spare, "ready to go" idler hub as a back up.

Kodaik rotors have a lot of meat to them. Could have some money and just have them turned.

 

[mike_i]

Sounds like it's time to take a closer look at the entire brake system.

 

[demarko210]

@mike_i
Systems was put in 2021.

If its recommended to change both calipers if one is seized then that would be the entire brake system cause that would be rotors and pads too. If it was a car I would not ask this question I know to change them, trailer I thought might be different thanks

 

[demarko210]

@dingbat
I would rather carry a spare hub than that big rotor in a box. I was not sure if it was ok to turn galvanized rotors. Look like I will need to carry both as I do not have brakes on the back. So it seems ok to just put one new rotor on one side with old pads. They can turn them at the shop I am parked at if that is the case. The guy there told me he has all the tool to remove the races and pack the bearings so dont buy them. Our relationship has gotten much better than a year ago btw.

 

[dingbat]

Systems was put in 2021.

If its recommended to change both calipers if one is seized then that would be the entire brake system cause that would be rotors and pads too.

The "gullible people" sales pitch......

I can understand if a component has catastrophic damage, but uneven wear on a pad or a sticking caliper doesn't come close to falling under that category.

The last caliper issue I experianced required sand paper, new slider bushings, and a tube of silicon lube. Back on the road in two days for less than $25

@dingbat
I would rather carry a spare hub than that big rotor in a box. I was not sure if it was ok to turn galvanized rotors.

Spare is in a plastic packaging that fits in the palm of my hand. Easily fits in the tool bucket I carry.

Boy, they've gotten expense....think I paid $40 for mine

Tie Down Engineering 5 Stud Uhi Hub Kit #1750

Includes 5 Stud UHI (1750#) Bearing Size 1 Ea 1-1/16" and 1-3/8" w/Lug Nuts

www.iboats.com

The reason the rotors rust between use is because the Galv coating is gone the first time you brake.

 

[cyclops222]

When I buy a trailer. I pull apart EVERYTHING on the axles. I go all the way into the inner axle SEALS. . I completely tale apart each bearing CLEAN IT to see if the rolling surfaces look brand new. ....I only do 1 bearing COMPLETELY at a time. I never mix any bearing parts ! Stays together or replaced with a complete new bearing that I repack with my grease.
Sometimes a new bearing is bad or not enough grease......................
I pack the axle almost FULL of grease. If it is full of grease. Then no water is going to cause rust. It works on every trailerI have owned.

 

[demarko210]

@cyclops222
I put new hubs on the rear in November and pump some grease into the axle with the brakes. I notice my rubber caps had a cut in them both on the brake axle. I did not notice this before when removing to add grease. I pump some grease in while turning and saw water move its way out. I since have add bearing buddies. Bearings did not make the noise its making now and the trailer has not moved until the home depot run the other day. The wheel spin freely and quite.

Hopefully its just bearings. I never done them before but seems very simple. The entire hub are a lot more simple to replace.

 

[bruceb58]

Bearings and races are simple to replace. When I buy a trailer, first thing I do is replace the bearings/races with US made Timken bearings. I can replace one hub's bearings and races in around 15 minutes including packing the grease into the bearing.

 

[airshot]

One thing I have learned after decades of working on these things, don't cut corners unless you enjoy doing it over again !! When it is time for brakes, I do the whole axle on a car or both axles on a trailer if a tandem. Costly yes, but once and done, then longer between replacements again.....one thing I hate is having to do the same thing over again !!

 

[04fxdwgi25]

Never enough time or money to do it right the 1st time, but always enough to do it again. Been the credo my entire engineer life.
Always liked this one too:
Contractor's credo, You can have it done fast, have it done right or have it done cheaply. Choose two because all three are not doable.

 

[jlh3rd]

In addition I've learned to buy higher quality parts....and tools when I can.

 

[demarko210]

Bearings and races are simple to replace. When I buy a trailer, first thing I do is replace the bearings/races with US made Timken bearings. I can replace one hub's bearings and races in around 15 minutes including packing the grease into the bearing.

Might want to check and see where Timken country of origin on those parts. I mostly see China for Timken.
I purchase some Seachoice hubs the box say made in the USA Pompano FL and on the hub has made in China stamped on it

 

[demarko210]

When it is time for brakes, I do the whole axle on a car or both axles on a trailer if a tandem. Costly yes, but once and done, then longer between replacements again.....one thing I hate is having to do the same thing over again !!

Yes agree I follow this rule for a car, never had the issue with trailer. Mechanic at the shop I am parked told me he would change them all if one is bad for good measure but for sure on a car.

 

[demarko210]

Never enough time or money to do it right the 1st time, but always enough to do it again. Been the credo my entire engineer life.
Always liked this one too:
Contractor's credo, You can have it done fast, have it done right or have it done cheaply. Choose two because all three are not doable.

I would prefer to do it myself if that is cheaply as I having a contractor come out to the side of the road would still be costly. To me this is a must know how for anyone that trailers at least know enough to get you back home if you can.

 

[cyclops222]

China almost owns ALL world wide manufacturing companies. Just like the USA did at 1 time.

 

[dingbat]

I get a kick going through bearing maintenance threads….lol

If the installer doesn’t have the skills or knowledge to determine if a bearing has issues w/o disassembly, you simply instruct them to disassemble and inspect each time

Got to run out and put new seals and bearings in the pool pump so I don’t have time to elaborate, but I’ll leave you with these thoughts:

Absolutely no need to remove a bearing from service to inspect. Bearing have a natural operating frequency. Can tell “condition” using a stethascope or a wooden handled screw driver if your old school. Remove from service to inspect only if noisy.

How many check bearing runout and end play as part of their inspection process? More on that later

In the scheme of things, the quality of the seal is the biggest factor in maintaining a bearing on a boat trailer. Yet, we replace the “cheap” OEM grease seals with the same junk it came with.

There is a difference in the pressure ratings and containment capabilities of the various seal designs.

The seals I use are technically oil seals with a soft sided design that allows the seal to accommodate shaft runout. They’re expensive, but the rear seals on my trailer have been in service going on 8 years now. Don't use them on the front axle because of excess runout noted above