But then you have to remember to take the prop stopper off when you are on the water......lets sell .......Prop Stoppers
Only $ 29.99 Free shipping.
But then you have to remember to take the prop stopper off when you are on the water......lets sell .......Prop Stoppers
Only $ 29.99 Free shipping.
YES....there is the 29.99 " prop stopper" ...better get a patent quick !Use a simple bungee cord to stop prop from rotating..-----There are many tricks and things that a boater can learn.
If you have the main power switch turned off, this is not possible, even if it otherwise theoretically would be.My brother told me that he was told when he bought a small OB motor that it should always be in neutral when on a boat being towed. The reason being that the wind would make the prop spin and thus turn over the engine and possibly do damage. I often forget to put my 90hp OB in neutral after powering onto trailer after an outing. I can't see wind turning over a 90hp motor, esp. in the raised position so that its not facing the wind dead on. Any opinions?
I gave you a like, which is rare, but I don't know why.put the motor in forward, the wind will spin the prop and give you a boost going home, better gas mileage and 10 miles per hour faster.
maybe because you know its true. lmao. you cant deny science..I gave you a like, which is rare, but I don't know why.
To me this is the bigger issue:I often forget to put my 90hp OB in neutral after powering onto trailer after an outing.
Tilt the motor way out so the prop wash doesn't wash away the bottom of the ramp and you will be fine.To me this is the bigger issue:
#1 - powering onto trailer is harmful to the boat landing
#2 - if your motor doesn't have a safety mechanism to prevent starting in gear, the boat could lurch when you start it.
Solutions:
#1 - don't power load. Use the winch or back further in.
#2 - part of your mental checklist should be to always put the gear in neutral before turning off the motor
Sounds good in theory, but most people I've seen never do it. Additionally, your boat is already at an angle so even with tilting your prop is horizontal at best but usually still pointed down at an angle. The prop wash does most of the damage to the ramp bottom, not the propeller itself.Tilt the motor way out so the prop wash doesn't wash away the bottom of the ramp and you will be fine.
Years back the family had a gravel dirt ramp, not fancy but it worked. We power loaded on that ramp for almost 20 years, motor tilted up so prop wash shot up out of the water. Never damaged the ramp after all those years. Correct...many do not tilt their motors up far enough...but the ramps I use for the past 15 years are all concrete for a long way back but shallow ! Can't back in far enough to float the boat on without your vehicle being in the water over the axles. By power loading, I am on my trailer and out of the way faster than anyone else at the ramp so I am not holding up traffic.Sounds good in theory, but most people I've seen never do it. Additionally, your boat is already at an angle so even with tilting your prop is horizontal at best but usually still pointed down at an angle. The prop wash does most of the damage to the ramp bottom, not the propeller itself.
That is not an accurate statement.Power loading is only a problem on poorly designed or poorly supported boating infrastructure, period.
Due to torn rotator cuffs and very shallow ramps power loading is necessary for some of us. However I know how to do it properly and do not damage the ramp. If I had to winch my boat on the trailer it would take me 20-30 minutes to get loaded up as it does most folks that winch their boats on. I can power load and be gone in 10 minutes or less. Unfortunately those that power load incorrectly are never challenged by authorities.I am not sure why " power loading " is even done.----Never did it myself.-----Too much risk of damage to the tow vehicle in my opinion.
Thais is why I have always said, you should need a license and pass a test to operate a boat !That is not an accurate statement.
Many lakes have concrete ramps, but the concrete has to end at some point. This is especially the case on northern lakes where ice and freezing/thawing make longer/deeper launches impractical.
Lake bottoms after the launches end can be rock, gravel, sand, mud, etc. Sandy and muddy lake bottoms are the most susceptible to propeller erosion. You can't design and engineer ramps to be propeller-proof. At some point, boat owners need to accept equal responsibility for using bunk trailers and for keeping the boat launches in good shape. Otherwise county and state budgets have to foot the bill, raising taxes, blah blah blah.
White Bear Lake in Minnesota is a great example. There is a great double-launch concrete ramp on the north end. It's a sandy-bottom lake. There is a propeller trench followed by a sandy hump about 10-15ft out that can catch lower units when maneuvering into and out of the launch. The county has had to fix the ramp repeatedly due to the power-loading.
Power loading is a problem in some places whether you want to accept it or not. Boating is not a right, it's a privilege. If you launch somewhere that is immune to the havoc of power-loading, that is great. Most boaters are ignorant of the boat launch conditions and how their actions affect the launches.