Time to re-upholster - Formula 330 SS

[Scott Danforth]

it will dry after a bit of soaking. however with the foam and the dap weldwood (better than the 3M 77, however not as convenient) you may simply want to use epoxy as that is cured in a few hours

 

[tpenfield]

Are you saying the OTWS will attack the foam? or cause adhesion problems? It is the new style of urethane upholstery foam that lets water immediately drain through . . .

I'd rather not have to fiddle with epoxy, and want something that soaks in really well.

 

[alldodge]

If you don't think you'll have the boat another 20 years why not just do nothing, it lasted the first time. Could always just coat the exposed areas

 

[Scott Danforth]

Are you saying the OTWS will attack the foam? or cause adhesion problems? It is the new style of urethane upholstery foam that lets water immediately drain through . . .

I'd rather not have to fiddle with epoxy, and want something that soaks in really well.

the OTWS just takes time to dry. what makes it soak in is the ultra-thinning of the mineral spirits

 

[tpenfield]

I got time . . . All winter

 

[tpenfield]

If you don't think you'll have the boat another 20 years why not just do nothing, it lasted the first time. Could always just coat the exposed areas

I am not planning on having the boat more than a few years. But I usually do things to last regardless.

 

[tpenfield]

Update . . .

I ordered the pink vinyl. This is the stuff that Formula used. There is a company in CT that bought the remaining supply of legacy colors from Formula. The owner told me that someone came in and bought a large supply just before me (like 20 yards) . . . Really . . . that color

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He also sent me a sample of the 'seafoam'/green, but it did not seem to match. The sample was more blue than green. So, I sent him a swatch of the original material from my seat covers to see where that leads.

I am ordering my other materials and supplies. . . mostly from Sailrite.

QUESTION for those following along:

THREAD SIZE ??? :noidea:

I have got a lifetime supply of 'Groz-Beckert' 135x17 needles Nm 160/23 that came with the machine. They seem to be fine for the vinyl.

I plan on buying either the Tenara or Profilen thread. There is V-92 or V-138 size thread. I am thinking it is the V-92 that I should use??? Just not sure :noidea:

TIA.

 

[alldodge]

Wish I knew of someone to call and ask. What about the place you got the vinyl from, or a local vinyl/canvas shop?

 

[tpenfield]

Wish I knew of someone to call and ask. What about the place you got the vinyl from, or a local vinyl/canvas shop?

some of the upholstery guys on this forum may know. After a little more research, it may be the ‘heavy’ Tenara thread (V-138) that is the better choice. :noidea:

My machine has a rotating bobbin and the Profelin is recommended for an oscillating bobbin. Seems like the 138 thread is a better fit for the 160/23 needle (?)

 

[tpenfield]

Budget check-in time:

Now that I have narrowed things down on the materials and supplies, I have compiled some more accurate budget figures.

The scope of the project is:

New mooring cover
New zippers for bimini and its cover
Re-make seat bases
New vinyl seats

Budget is looking like. . .

Materials, Tools, and supplies $2,000
Sewing Machine $500
Servo motor $135
Belts and pulleys $50

Total project: $2,685

I think that is a bit higher than my original estimate, but that’s OK

 

[Lou C]

Great work!
if you want a wood preservative that is thinner and will soak in you could try CPES which is thinned epoxy (fumes from solvents gotta wear a fume respirator). Or what about using treated plywood? I used that when I replaced the big sun pad on our boat back in 2008 and it’s still in good shape.....

 

[Scott Danforth]

Hey Woodonglass , can you help Ted with the thread question

Ted, will also reach out to my upholstery guy

 

[tpenfield]

Thanks, Guys.

There are also a couple of upholstery/leather making forums that I can check in on.

The sewing industry sure makes things complicated when it come to needle and thread.

I shared my budget $$$$ #'s with the Admiral . . . she was like "OK, whatever . . "

 

[tpenfield]

The upholstery guy in CT just called me. He got my sample of the green/teal from my seats, and said that he had a better match for me to look at, so another swatch is on its way for me to check out. It seems like that color has been tough to match even anything close.

I also have a couple more samples on the way from other sources. We'll see where this ends up.

Last time I did seats, I just ordered what I thought to be the right colors. Some were and some were not . . . This time around, I want to be a bit more precise in knowing what I'm getting.

 

[tpenfield]

I just found out that Formula Boats uses/used Tenara thread for their upholstery. So, I'm probably good with the 'Heavy Tenara'.

 

[tpenfield]

I placed a good sized order for most of the vinyl, sunbrella, and supplies . . . $1,400 ish

 

[tpenfield]

Quick update . . .

I decided on the 'green/teal' vinyl. After going through numerous samples from a bunch of suppliers, I decided to go with a darker green . . . Morbern Seabrook 'Deep Sea'. So, it looks like all of the vinyl will be Morbern this time around.

I should have the large order showing up tomorrow, and the green vinyl should be here by Monday. All that is left to do is get some exterior grade plywood and the makings for the OTWS (Old Timers Wood Sealer) :thumb: Then it will be lots of cutting and sewing.

 

[Scott Danforth]

And sanding and gluing.....andd drinking....

 

[Lowlysubaruguy]

Myself I would use a V92 and the smallest needle possible. I have used it for many years without issues. Here’s why I would use a smaller thread. The thicker threads require thicker needles the larger the needle the more damage to the vinyl and the more likely a problem at the seam from needle punctures in the material that will occur. Over time the vinyl will rip and tear in places that have been sewn more often than you will have a thread failure even if you use the smaller thread. Probably 10 to 1 so its not the thread size thats key to long lasting work.

Sizing needles The needle should move Almost freely on a piece of thread a few feet long held vertical and pulled till the slack is out of it but it should also not hang up on it. This tip from leather forum that is a plethora of great info. So buy your thread then find the needle that fits the thread best the exception to this would be if you find your breaking needles in really thick layered areas or tough to maneuver pieces such as weird curves and welt cords then go up a size. Theres a great company on eBay seller ebay name is sharpsewing that sells endless assortments for most machines materials and thread. You will want a blunt end needle I think a 17 is large enough up to a 21 for really thick but again only use as large a needle as you have to. The V92 will work with either of these. I’d pick an assortment from 16 to 23 for different materials so you have them covered. I keep mine in a Plano plastic tackle box along with bobbins and things I want at the machine when I’m sewing.

The only reason i would use larger thread is if I was sewing it in a contrasting color and wanted it to pop or stand out brightly but thats for pleats and reinforced stitches so I’d still use thinner thread on my seams any way.

If you have concerns about the strength of v92 thread I have actually never seen it fail on any of the countless projects that I still own while I have seen the material split or tear at these seems some are now over 30 years old. .

So now theres some things you need to do to make your project go well. You need a good chair ok one with good wheels so it can roll and move with you as you work large pieces youll find its one of the most important parts next table to cut prep and sew from. A sheet of melamine with a slick top is cheap the sliding factor is important. If you cant have a table this size make it as large as possible and then you want to make a hinged piece that wraps around the machine and you a little so the material your feeding has a support system before it goes through the machine. When I’m sewing boat covers 20 to 30 yards I make this piece wrap behind me as much as possible Its something I make out of a piece of plywood just use a couple of door hinges and a prop rod to hold it in the right spot. Make all of these pieces match the height of your sewing machine. And adjust your machine to the height you like first most of the commercial stands are adjustable. Myself I’m probably a horrible seamstress thats countered it with SIZE DOES MATTER my table is 7’x12’ not to mention the folding part I screw in place when I’m doing larger pieces. Feeding the material without it catching on anything is key to the best end product.

Then before you start on this project sew something up first do you need a small awning for your front door or a couple of table clothes these would be good starter pieces to get the feel of it. Table clothes will get you use to larger pieces. And if your are still under budget a snap set tool is a great thing to add to your tool list buy a good one and then snap parts in colors to match key areas I seem to ever run out of uses for this tool its something I cant imagine not having.

 

[tpenfield]

Thanks Lowlysubaruguy the heavy Tenara is on order, so we will have to see how that goes. I am planning on using the 'sew foam' backing which has a layer of scrim to hold the thread better than lust the vinyl itself.

I plan on using 4mm (6 spi) stitching on the seams and 6 mm (4 spi) stitching on the top stitching.

Here is a picture of the final colors:
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I decided to go with a darker green, after numerous attempts to find a light green that was a decent match to the original. I also believe I mis-spoke/typed in my post above, about the vinyl brands.

It is not all Morbern brand . . . The pink is Nautolex (OEM) and the white, purple, and green are Morbern brand. We'll have to see how they get along.