Throttle cable issue

[Texasmouth]

I just purchased a 2008 Suntracker Party Barge 25 with the 3.0L I/O. The boat was just serviced by a shop and they installed a new shifter and cable. The boat runs like a champ on the water house at the house but when it is in the water, it sputters and dies when I give it throttle or turn. Even in the water the boat runs amazing when its in nuetral, even reving the engine up to high RPM's. The shifter was not tightened down correctly and I literally have to hold the base to move the throttle. The shop did a really lousy job and I have complained.
Is it a possibility that the loose shifter assembly could be causing the stalling issues?
Thanks for any advice or opinions.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Nope. Loose cable will not effect stalling. Note, revving a motor in neutral tells you literally nothing and can damage your motor.

Sounds like a typical used boat with problems left behind by previous owner. Needs ALL the scheduled regular maintenance items gone through. Should have a compression check to determine motor baseline. Probably needs the fuel system gone through (filters and carb rebuild) to fix the stalling under load issues. That isn't to say it can't be an ignition problem, but being used it could have any number of contaminates in the fuel, hence I focus there first.

 

[Texasmouth]

Nope. Loose cable will not effect stalling. Note, revving a motor in neutral tells you literally nothing and can damage your motor.

Sounds like a typical used boat with problems left behind by previous owner. Needs ALL the scheduled regular maintenance items gone through. Should have a compression check to determine motor baseline. Probably needs the fuel system gone through (filters and carb rebuild) to fix the stalling under load issues. That isn't to say it can't be an ignition problem, but being used it could have any number of contaminates in the fuel, hence I focus there first.

The boat was just serviced. Completely serviced. Everything was checked. Outdrive was rebuilt. Complete check out of the boat. Over $2,000 worth of work done.

 

[flashback]

Obviously it wasn't completely serviced properly. You may want to find another shop.

 

[Bondo]

The boat was just serviced. Completely serviced. Everything was checked. Outdrive was rebuilt. Complete check out of the boat. Over $2,000 worth of work done.

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,....... Unfortunately, I'm guessin' the quality of their work for the complete service, is equal too, or lesser than the quality of work they did in installin' the new control,.....

 

[flashback]

If you feel you can DIY there are many here that will guide ya. If you are not of that nature then find a mech who is better than the last one...
I have crapped out many times but I learn from the folks on this forum. many have done this stuff for a livelihood and are willing to help...

Welcome aboard!

 

[Texasmouth]

I bought a fuel filter and some fuel system cleaner. Going to try both of those before I jump into changing the carb.

Some others have said it could be the throttle cable wasnt adjusted properly but some others say that cant be it. Im going to try the easy stuff first then I will tackle the carb if necessary. I honestly had some concerns about buying a boat with a carb in the first place but I guess I am just dumb. I have a deck boat with a 5.7L Magnum and it has been absolutely perfect. Never an issue. Just wanted something a little bigger to hold more people. Guess I should have just stuck with the one that worked.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Nah, where's the fun in that! Carbs are fine - just try and 'kit' a fuel injection system that is plugged up from crappy fuel.

When you remove the fuel filter, dump contents into a glass container and see what kind of contaminants might be preset.

Don't both wasting money on fuel system cleaner. They are snake oil for the most part - maybe once in a while useful for a plugged injector, the wastiest bit of money for a carburetor that has bowls that collect the crap, concentrate it and plug up ports and passageways with same. Mechanic in a can will not touch that. Tiniest bit of patience and you can kit your own carb.

 

[Texasmouth]

I just found a brand new carb in a box that came with the boat. I guess that should tell me something if the previous owner already bought a new carb. I think that may be out of my level of mechanical knowledge. Youtube here I come.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I am old mechanic, old as in a lot of years way back when wrenching on anything stuck in front of me, *because*. I get it that makes me different than the usual fuel injected car and boat owner of today - usually whose knees still work.. And I get it that stuff that you haven't seen is scary. All true. Carbs are not all that difficult if you take the time and get to know them just a little. I always said I could be a neurosurgeon if they made the right youtubie.

All that said, sticking a new in box carb on a boat motor should n't be that hard. However, I have almost never seen a drop in carb calibrated properly to a motor. So you probably need some assistance there. And it also isn't something I would care to do all in the shop without testing/adjusting on the water. Running on the shop floor tells us basically nothing about the ability of the carb to produce power without burning a piston or two up.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Personally, I'd rather rebuild the old carb than start from scratch calibrating a new one. That's me tho.

 

[Texasmouth]

I am old mechanic, old as in a lot of years way back when wrenching on anything stuck in front of me, *because*. I get it that makes me different than the usual fuel injected car and boat owner of today - usually whose knees still work.. And I get it that stuff that you haven't seen is scary. All true. Carbs are not all that difficult if you take the time and get to know them just a little. I always said I could be a neurosurgeon if they made the right youtubie.

All that said, sticking a new in box carb on a boat motor should n't be that hard. However, I have almost never seen a drop in carb calibrated properly to a motor. So you probably need some assistance there. And it also isn't something I would care to do all in the shop without testing/adjusting on the water. Running on the shop floor tells us basically nothing about the ability of the carb to produce power without burning a piston or two up.

Well, lucky for me...no shop. I have the boat out in a slip at the lake . Going tomorrow hopefully, if not Friday for sure. Hoping to figure some stuff out now with the advice I got here.

 

[Rick Stephens]

With temps where they are, once I get morning shop work done, have some targets I fabbed up for a customer need paint, I'll hang around computers when it gets too hot for me. Ask away if I can help. Can even PM phone numbers you get some questions.

 

[Texasmouth]

With temps where they are, once I get morning shop work done, have some targets I fabbed up for a customer need paint, I'll hang around computers when it gets too hot for me. Ask away if I can help. Can even PM phone numbers you get some questions.

Wow! Thanks. That would be awesome. Oddly enough it is storming in Las Vegas so I may not get out there until Friday.

 

[Texasmouth]

So the boat worked perfectly fine before it went to the shop. The shop changed out the throttle cable. I have read that the throttle cable being adjusted incorrectly can cause the issues I am having. Is that a possibility? There is literally a full inch of play before the trans kicks in or even before the throttle speeds up. When it does go into gear it's a hard thunk.

Also, pulled the fuel filter off and it looked brand new. I changed it anyway. Same issues. Had some trouble getting it started again. The tach doesnt work worth a crap either. it is reading 5000 when the boat is just idling. I lowered the idle down and it wouldnt stay stared.

The only thing left I can think of is adjusting this throttle cable and changing the carb. I have a brand new carb, that is why I dont want to rebuild this one. I am just really unsure if this is the problem or not.

 

[Texasmouth]

Sputters and backfires when I shut it offf too

 

[Rick Stephens]

Dieseling is caused by running rich or timing. Throw the carb on and see what happens. An hour job.

 

[Texasmouth]

Dieseling is caused by running rich or timing. Throw the carb on and see what happens. An hour job.

OK. Here goes nothing!

 

[Texasmouth]

The carb isnt the same so slight hold up...

 

[Texasmouth]

I pulled the carb off. Took it apart and cleaned it.
New fuel filter.
Put gas treatment in the tank.

Got the idle set to the perfect rpm. Drove it and it ran like a friggin champ. Went right into gear. Accelerated smoothly. Got it up to top speed. Slowed down and sat for a minute. Took off again and gassed it full throttle and it just bogged down and started chugging and dieseling again. Im so frustrated with this damn thing. It ran so well for like 5 minutes.