throttle cabel adjustment prolems 1977 Chysler 135HG

[seattle scott]

the idle stop on the tower shaft doesn't return to "stopped" position so the idle speed is very high ( I don't have a tach) in neutral. I can push the thottle linkage back to idle by hand, but when the control box level is moved to forward, the thottle engages first so the motor jumps into gear with a big clunk and the boat takes off at jogging speed.
Frank posted an explanation http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=502943 and said Note how the spring loaded center section is pulled out about 1/4 inch in neutral. This allows the engine to shift into gear before the throttle starts to open. Can anyone add to this explanation/description so I sort this out or what I am missing or don't understand as to how to adjust the gear and throttle cables at the engine. I will get some photos up tomorrow.

 

[seattle scott]

Re: throttle cabel adjustment prolems 1977 Chysler 135HG

Ok so now I poked around and see that the throttle cable end on the motor has a spring that is engaged when the terminal end is extended. So here are some pics showing: .
1 when control box lever is returned to idle/neutral, the tower stop does not return all the way back to the idle position on the block.

2. The thottle cam can get hung up on the rising gear shift platform which prevents motor frpm going into neutral.

3. I shortened the throttle cable end part ( screwed it in all the way) to get more spring tension, but it is only extending the spring 1/16 to 1/8 inch ( see the dark ring next to the stop/lock nut) when hokeup with the throttle fully closed

4. With the shifter in idle/neutral and the throttle cable disconnected, but shortened as much as possible, it still reaches to within about 1/8 inch of the ball fixed point.

As presently hooked up the thottle advances BEFORE the motor goes into gear. I have shortened the throttle cable all the way of the adjustment to try to get the spring effect to return the throttle/tower arm all the way back to the stop. But I guess the reverse affect is when engaging the forward gear and throttle now engages too soon.

I am just looking for the meathod this should be set up and not the trial and error I am using.

 

[jkoppe73]

Re: throttle cabel adjustment prolems 1977 Chysler 135HG

These are instructions from my Force manual, should be the same for your unit

 

[bentle]

Re: throttle cabel adjustment prolems 1977 Chysler 135HG

How many carbs do you have? If two or more then problem may by at the tie bar which opens and closes both carbs at the same time. If the tie bar screw comes loose then you will have the same problem as you stated above. Im not to familiar with your motor but alot of carb adjustments are familiar to newer outboards?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: throttle cabel adjustment prolems 1977 Chysler 135HG



Simple: Your throttle cable is not set into the tower clamp properly. From the first photo it appears that the detent in the clamp is not set into the groove in the metal end. The rubber boot should be against the clamp when the cable is correctly clamped.

You first clamp the cable without connecting it to the ball joint. Then you put the engine in gear and advance the throttle. Then you attach the throttle end to the ball joint. Disconnect and adjust if necessary.

 

[seattle scott]

Re: throttle cabel adjustment prolems 1977 Chysler 135HG

Well hopefully I am an idiot and have asembled the cable incorrectly ( per Frank) and if i am not as dumb as I hope I am, I have some instructions from koppe. The two carb tie bar is in good order.

Just to confirm, is it the spring in the end of the cable connection that brings the tower shaft back to the final idle stop, correct? Or is the sole purpose of the spring to delay the throttle opening while shifting into gear? Or does it have both functions?

 

[jkoppe73]

Re: throttle cabel adjustment prolems 1977 Chysler 135HG

I had this same problem, although my cable was clamped right, after installing a new shifter. Once I went thru the adjustment procedure it appeared to me that it served both purposes.

 

[seattle scott]

Re: throttle cabel adjustment prolems 1977 Chysler 135HG

Frank was correct, I didn't have the throttle cable correctly positioned in the clamp. Now shift and throttle work correclty without any hang up with the throttle shaft and shift tabs. Going into reverse the gear engaged without the throttle advancing, but I still get throtle advance before going into forward. I am going to check the shift rod height adjustment next. The other issue, which I think effects the shirt rod height is that I discovered that the upper motor mounts are missing the lower bolts and the port side mount is split/broken. I discovered this on the first sea trial, where I had the hood off and we did our first hole shot after a carb needle adjustment and i saw the power head fall back. I have a set of mounts coming. I will replace the broken one and bolt both down, then I will start with the shift rod height adjustment, as it seems the power head is independant form the shift rod, so I need to get the power head secured before I start making shift rod height adjustments.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: throttle cabel adjustment prolems 1977 Chysler 135HG



Oooh! You do realize that to replace the upper motor mounts you need to detach the powerhead from the midleg, don't you? The match plate covers the upper bolts and washers.

In order to easily replace the uppers, you will also need to detach the lower motor mount and move the midleg out of the front plate.

 

[seattle scott]

Re: throttle cabel adjustment prolems 1977 Chysler 135HG

Frank you could have broken it to me slowly. I am going to go to plan B - as soon as I come up with one.

 

[seattle scott]

Re: throttle cabel adjustment prolems 1977 Chysler 135HG

Adjusting the shirft rod height solved the throttle/gear issues. As for the motor mount, I got the lower bolt installed on the good mount. On the broken/split mount, ( feeling under it with a finger it felt like the metal plate on the mount was split, not just the rubber disk) I injected epoxy inside the rubber where is was creacked apart and inject epoxy below the mount and put a hose clamp around the mount and lowered the power head back down and the installed the lower bolt. Seems to be holding. . .