T&T leakdown tests

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
17,923
Use Loctite if possible.
Anti seize becomes perma seize
if there's a possibility of it seeing
salt water.
Back in 86 when I started working
at the dealer. I rigged new boats
for delivery. We rigged over 200 a year
and almost 90% of the outboards
we sent out had anti seize on the
steering cable and they ended up
coming back so we could free them
up. After my suggestion to use
Triple Guard we had no returns.
Now days I use 30w oil.
 

topgun3690

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May 7, 2019
Messages
970
Thanks Jerry....gonna hijack my own thread here and ask you about your 3-wire octopus you talked about yesterday.....what gauge wire did you use? And did you use any kind of connector to plug the wires into the spark plug boots? Or did you just strip the insulation off the ends and cram the wire in there?1603164042739.png
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
Messages
17,923
I believe 8g wire and yup peel the end back, fold it over
and shove it in the end.
You might have to cut back a few pieces of the wire so
it fits??
 

topgun3690

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May 7, 2019
Messages
970
Thanks.....stupid question.....whenever cranking the motor for timing or comp checks....you should have water going to the impeller, right? Even though you are not trying to start it?
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,428
No not need to have water to the impeller when checking for spark or compression check.
I have never done that and the impeller will survive it.
Much different when you try to start it and when it start. Higher RPMs and much more time running.
 

topgun3690

Ensign
Joined
May 7, 2019
Messages
970
No not need to have water to the impeller when checking for spark or compression check.
I have never done that and the impeller will survive it.
Much different when you try to start it and when it start. Higher RPMs and much more time running.
Thanks for that Nordin.....I have done several comp checks and each time I put the hose/muffs on just in case because I wasn't sure. The manual didn't say anything about it so was wandering how the experts on here do it. (y)
 

topgun3690

Ensign
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May 7, 2019
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970
Update.....got the new bolts installed, bled the system.....motor STILL bled down about a third of the way, then stopped solid. Would not stay fully up. Decided this was not a seal problem or it would go all the way down, like it did before I replaced the VB. Got to thinking I must have damaged the tilt cylinder several months ago when I removed the cap without using the proper tools. Talked to Franz Buddenberg again...he said I may have crushed the cylinder slightly near the top end causing the cylinder to be out of round enough where the seal on the piston couldn't hold pressure. When the piston got past the bad area it would seal again and stop. So I bought a rebuilt tilt cylinder from him, installed it today, and problem solved.
 

Nordin

Commander
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Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,428
Glad you solved the problem and sometimes it takes time and patient to find culprit.
Sometime it is more then one culprit.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
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17,923
YEA!!!!
Some things are IMPOSSIBLE to diagnose when the damage was
done to a piece that we can't see???
 

topgun3690

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May 7, 2019
Messages
970
Jerry, Force power, and Nordin.....wanted to thank you all for your advice and input. Learned a lot about T&T systems and burned through a little cash getting it fixed....but still cheaper than buying a new one! And like they say........"It's only money!" (y)
 
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