Suggestions on how to proceed replacing stringer

[brewern]

Due to a job change, I no longer have access to my old email, so I can't reset my old password on my regular account on here. So, this is actually "brewern":
http://forums.iboats.com/member/338314-brewern

Ok, so, you can read about our 1986 Chapperal here:
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...614005-which-boat-should-we-buy-advice-please

And last summer, we realized the floor was, in fact, squishy. Uggg. Ok, it is what it is, time to rip up the floor. I've never done it before, but like so many others, I've found plenty of tutorials here, and I have a friend that specializes in fiberglass work, so he'll be able to guide me as well.

As you will see in the attached pictures, I've removed the foam from a lot of the floor, and now I'm contemplating my next step. Should I remove the top off the boat? That's heading down a road I wanted to avoid. Or is there some other route I could take? The 1 stringer is rotten, and the fiberglass is delaminated from it. But, I can't easily get all the way to the front of the stringer. Or, if I did just cut an access hole up through the middle of the bow, how would I put plywood back down and make it sturdy? Perhaps some new cross stringers? But, definitely, not removing the cap would be preferable!

For the stern, I've already worked out how to make those repairs... for the most part. Unless find out the transom is rotten. Then, I see no option except to remove the cap.

Take a look at the pictures and let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!

 

[brewern]

Another pic, showing my bow, and where the stringer is. The stringer is rotten all the way up to where I've cut out so far. I was hoping I could cut the stringer right there, and sister it to a new stringer, but you and I both know that would be a sketchy solution. So, I definitely think I need to replace the entire stringer at once. I just don't want to pull that cap off!

 

[gm280]

WOW, you know regardless what type boat a person starts their refurbish project on, seems the same old rotted pictures show up every time. Yes you do have a lot to remove and clean up, but there is tons of help and ideas as well. So if you're ready, we are too. Lets go... Pictures are the best way to translate your questions allowing everybody see what your are seeing and asking about. So keep the pictures flowing too...

 

[brewern]

Thanks GM280, hopefully someone on here will have some good ideas for me. Today I was looking at the pics and thought, what if I temporarily glassed in some cross braces from port to starboard, just under the gunwales. Then I could remove the cap without fear of the hull warping. Any thoughts anyone?

 

[kcassells]

What he said. Add couple more pics, overall shots to see if a decap is necessary.

 

[Woodonglass]

Based on what I'm seeing you have a lot more than just one stringer to worry about. She's 29 years old, the Foam is waterlogged and if the center stringer is mush then the Transom could have issues as well. Is this an I/O or Outboard powered boat? Pics of the entire boat would be helpful. The foam is not just for flotation purposes in your boat. Your hull requires the foam to be replaced to reinforce the fiberglass. It was designed that way since it only has the center Keel stringer.

 

[gm280]

This is a very good time to post this. If others are reading this project, know that there are very good pros on these forums (I'm certainly not one of them) and while they are pros, they can't begin to see what you are dealing with. So close up pictures are fine for questions about some close up issue, but further away shots of the entire boat and such lets us see exactly what you are working with as well. So the most different type shots you can provide the better the suggestions and instructions will be available for your project... Just a little info for project boaters. We do have great folks on these forums, but I've yet to read about any mind-readers on here...not to say there isn't any. But I haven't seen or been inform of anyone myself... So you have to provide as much written AND pictorial evidence of what you see with your boat project for quality type answers and directions. JMHO!

 

[brewern]

Thanks for your help everyone, and I appreciate all your advice and recommendations. Glad to see you are here too WOG!
gm280 said there aren't any mind readers here? Well shoot! Ok, so I made a video for you. Hopefully this will clear up any questions you may have, but give it a watch and let me know.
Thanks for your help and expertise!

 

[64osby]

Great video!!!

The biggest issue is can you access any and all areas that are wet and rotten. Can you verify that the transom is solid?

Remove all the junk and then make a determination of a working plan.

 

[jigngrub]

gm280 said there aren't any mind readers here?

You don't have to be a mind reader to know that the boat in the pics is suffering from a severe case of boat cancer due to neglect and exposure to the elements at some point in it's life. We've seen hundreds of these pics on this forum and it turns out the same, rip out the rotten wet stuff and replace with new dry stuff. The rot in your boat will be in everything made of wood, this includes your transom.

 

[brewern]

You don't have to be a mind reader to know that the boat in the pics is suffering from a severe case of boat cancer due to neglect and exposure to the elements at some point in it's life. We've seen hundreds of these pics on this forum and it turns out the same, rip out the rotten wet stuff and replace with new dry stuff. The rot in your boat will be in everything made of wood, this includes your transom.

Well thanks for sugar coating it jigngrub! LOL. But, I already knew that. It looks like the entire floor needs to be removed, including the bow. Now I just need to decide on the best way to do that. Should I uncap it? I'd prefer not to due to flexing of the hull once the shoebox lid comes off. What to do?

 

[64osby]

Your idea of cutting off the panels might enable you to gain access to all the rot.

Some (most) boats are easier to fix by removing the cap. You might have one that allows you to keep it in place.

Glassing back in might be more difficult but it might be worth it. Only time will tell.

 

[jigngrub]

Well thanks for sugar coating it jigngrub! LOL. Should I uncap it? I'd prefer not to due to flexing of the hull once the shoebox lid comes off. What to do?

Here's a thread about a boat very similar to yours where the owner replaced everything without taking the cap off:

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...25-dixie-hustler-deck-job-turned-full-rebuild

The demo and cutting out start at around page 10, I think you'll find it interesting.

 

[kcassells]

Consider that you will end up replacing the transom and bilge. Those boxes in the rear will end up being gone completely to remove all the rot and reinstall the transom. You're right that they can be rebuilt.
In the front section I'd cut out the glass @ 18" up all around, gain proper access, make repairs etc and reinstall, modify as you want /fair back in. This should be able to be done with out removing the cap. But removing the cap will make you work easier, faster and less body twisting, belly crawling, back aching positions.

 

[Woodonglass]

I think you'll find those boxes at the stern will be filled with foam. At least the one's I've seen before have been. Have you core sampled the transom yet to ensure that it is not rotten? Trying to replace the center stringer all the way forward to the bow without removing the cap will be a challenge. It's always nice to consider trying to do things in a non traditional way thinking it will be easier but...I really think you'd be better off de-capitating her and being able to get to everything in the more traditional way. But hey, it's your boat and your decision.

 

[brewern]

Yes, I?m starting to be won over to the side of ?Remove the cap!?. Thanks for the link jigngrub, I read the entire 36 pages. The entire time I was thinking ?I can?t wait until I get to the part where he fixes the bottom of the front seats where he cut them!?, but then, he never shows that part! Oh well, it was good information, and a nice refresher course. It?s been a while since I watched Jay?s series. I also read the post from the guy that used Trex decking wood to fix his boat. Umm, I?ll not be using that thread for advice, but I was glad to see you all got him on the right track. Wowsers!

So, I think my next step will be drilling a hole in the transom to check for rot. Then, after I find it (and I will (kcassells already knew this! LOL)), I?ll convince the admiral that we?re going to be removing the cap and doing this right, as I?m sure you would agree WOG. The wife and I have lived without a boat this long, we can go another summer if needed. Especially if it means she?ll be rock solid!

I think I?ll be building a mount for the engine this weekend, and get that removed. That should be straight forward, especially after my previous removal of an I/O when I had ?A Dog?s Life?. I know there?s a sticky here on iBoats, I?ll go find it.

My next question is about building a cradle (aka bunk?) for it. Can anyone recommend some good links for that? I have a concern of how to lift the boat off of the trailer, while in my garage. And do I remove the cap before placing it on the cradle? Do I need to find some old carpet to pad the boat while it?s on the cradle? How do I design the cradle so the boat isn't pinched or strectched out, etc?

Once it?s on the cradle, and the cap is removed, I?ll finish removing the floor and take it from there. Considering there?s only 1 stringer, it?s an outboard, and the gas tank is removable, I think this should go pretty fast. One other question?. Could I build in a gas tank somehow? I?m not sure how I would do it since I would have to put it back under there where the bilge box is?. Hmmmm. There?s no room below deck. Any ideas? Is that even wise? (It's probably cost prohibitive anyway...)

I have other questions, but they can wait until later in the build.

Thanks as always, to all of you, for your expertise and help!

BTW, I make the final payment on that boat in about 2 weeks, on March 1[SUP]st[/SUP]! Woo hoo! Then, I can use my usual payment for supplies. That?ll dampen the financial burden!

 

[brewern]

Hmmm, this might not happen. The admiral and I are thinking about simplifying and getting a canoe with a transom and trolling motor. That's all we really need to get out on the water, and our kids are grown and don't go with us anymore. Hmmmmm, what to do....

 

[gm280]

Hmmm, this might not happen. The admiral and I are thinking about simplifying and getting a canoe with a transom and trolling motor. That's all we really need to get out on the water, and our kids are grown and don't go with us anymore. Hmmmmm, what to do....

Well that is entirely up to you and yours, but if you are really wanting a hard, dirty, costly, tiring, but very self satisfying and rewarding project, then refurbish your boat as well... We are all still here and waiting. It usually doesn't seem much worth the tremendous efforts while working on the boat, but once finished you will love what you've accomplish more then a new one...for certain!

 

[brewern]

Thanks for the encouragement gm! I won't be getting out of the rebuild game entirely, rather, I think I'm getting out of the glass game! :O
Once the canoe and everything is bought and paid for, I think I'm going to look for a tinny to start rebuilding, at my leisure.

 

[brewern]

No Title

See that picture? That's me and the admiral right now! We're waffling on selling the boat! LOL
She said "Just keep the boat, and continue to fix it. And go buy us a canoe!"
So, for now, the renovation is back on! Wooo hoo!

And now, instead of a canoe, I'm thinking of getting an old jet-ski, just for fun, while the boat gets repaired. But, I know nothing about jet skis. Here's the one I'm considering:
http://lexington.craigslist.org/boa/4855245534.html