dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

[mwe-maxxowner]

I bought a boat that seemed solid. I did everything short of drill holes in it and it seemed good to go. It has a wake tower, tower speakers, looks good and has a good running 4.3. I knew that my situation was still a possibility so I pushed to get the price down to compensate as he'd been trying to sell it for a while. As is the way of things we met somewhere in the middle, so I'm fairly happy with what I paid still.

I finally noticed a slight soft spot way up under the steering console and knew I should investigate. I don't like carpet anyway so I pulled it all up and of course wasn't happy with what I found. Someone had done a half arse partial deck job already that was ugly.

I drilled my stringers around the bilge area that are exposed, motor mounts, and transom and surprisingly all that is not nearly as bad as I thought. A few spots in the transom yield a little darker colored wood but not rotted or nearly as bad as my first Dixie. So, I'd hoped to do a straightforward proper deck job, new foam, and ride. But, after pulling the floor up I saw they put lots of screws into the stringers around the tank causing the wood around the tank to rot.

My plan is as follows:
I don't have the time or the finances to pull the cap and motor and do the transom too as well as the stringers and reinforcements under the motor. I want to replace everything from the bulkhead in front of the motor forward and of course foam it and fiberglass in my deck properly. This replaces everything that is plum rotten and that won't be safe aa bit longer. As soon as next season ends I will build a cradle, pull the cap and rebuild the transom and rear of the boat. That gibes me all next winter to finish and fund the rest of the project.

I know this means cutting up part of the deck I've just done but that'll just have to be so. In addition to the core samples I've also bounced up and down on my outdrive at full up and had someone watch and the transom does not flex. It also does not leak at all.

For those of you maybe reading this as I'm starting the thread bear with me pics are coming.

He hole below for the fuel lines is factory! No wonder these boats do this.

Dunno if you can see all the screws around the tank and the old unglassed nailers.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I'll be cutting some material off the bottom of this center area under the bow seats to gibe me room to work. I want to add a seat cushion in the middle anyway and make it more like a closed bow so my girlfriend can stretch across the front more easily.

There is the bulkhead behind the tank. Everything behind it tests OK, so I will replace from there forward on the stringers until next off season when I pull the
motor to do the transom.

Its no secret what I did here . You can't tell in this picture but I can see daylight from inside.

I'll need help fixing that. I've thought mix up a fibrous pb, get it in there. Glass a couple layers on the inside of whatever fiberglass material you guys recommend? Maybe even sand and put a layer of cloth on the outside?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I figured this was the case, 2 rotten boats in a row sounds like my used boat buying luck.:faint2:

I think you'll regret not doing it all at once, but it's your boat and you can do it any way you want... and you may change your mind once you start digging in and tearing out.

You'll need to build a cradle if you're going to do stringers... or do a really good job adding additional support to your trailer. The people that skimp on hull support are the ones that have problems with their build not coming out right.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Ahhh I see. OK. I was under the impression it was only a problem if I remove the cap. And I was sure you'd advise to do it all at once haha. Yeah I'm not buying any more! I'm gonna just fix this one. Its more what I want anyway. I like the quieter inboard and the larger wake. And I like the tower that's already there. I've determined its a crap shoot unless you can 100% verify a restoration has already been done. The motor checks with good compression and runs well so I'll just fix it and run her until I have to sell it for parts. Perhaps then I'll be a rich man who can buy a new boat.

I really wanted to starteisurely rebuilding my first boat, and get some experience in on it. But I'll have to put that plan aside for now, this is the one that I have to have up and running. What if I remove and replace the stringers one at a time? Will this help reduce the chance of hull deflection?

Also if I add several pictures of the boat as it sits could you guys use that to recommend the best ways to support the hull?

I'm assuming take pictures of how the boat sits and measurements from specific points of reference and check by all that before foaming and decking?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

You'll actually need more hull support with the cap on because of the extra weight on the hull pushing down. Doing what you can with the cap on isn't a bad idea, the boat will be more solid when you finish and when you have to pull the cap if you put it back together like it's supposed to be.

The gash in your hull needs to be repaired from the inside with fiberglass and then filled with peanut butter (smooth, not chunky) or fairing compound. from the outside after the repair

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I was hoping the gash could be fixed this way. Easier to touch up the small line than if I had to sand and glass it. There really are only 4 stringers. The two down the middle which I imagine do most of the work, and the two small ones on the outside. I removed the foam with a roundpoint shovel just as if I were digging a hole. It worked well. I should be finished cutting out the floor and removing the foam by the middle of next week. Then time to start grinding the edges?

There was no outlet for water in these two little boxes. Should I add some?

The smaller outside stringers stop right there. Side note. I had only figured this job and ordered materials for the deck. I hope the materials for the stringers don't push me over too much?

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

This is how the boat sits right now and the space in which I will have to build a cradle or add hull support.

Also I have a slight gap at the top of my windshield presently. Should I use ratchet straps to close it up before decking? Or just leave well enough alone and live with it?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Those stringers don't even look glassed in, maybe just half way up or something?

The gap in the windshield is from weakness of the hull due to rot, you need to support the hull so the margin is equal all the way up and down. This way it'll be good when you build the boat back.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I'll tell ya, if it was me and being a brand new newbie to fiberglass restoration... I'd do the first boat with the outboard motor first, just for the experience. Then I'd sell it to recoup the cost of materials (and maybe a little more), then do the boat I really like and want to keep.

That way any newb mistakes you make will be on the first boat and you'll be able to do a better and quicker job on the inboard because you'll know exactly what you're doing.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

The stringers do have glass fully encasing the wood. I think this is what you mean? I'm about to go out and do some more digging I'll try to get a decent closeup. But my phone does not do well in the low light under that carport. I'm creating this whole thread on my phone. I think that is more aggravating than working on the boat >:O

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I'll tell ya, if it was me and being a brand new newbie to fiberglass restoration... I'd do the first boat with the outboard motor first, just for the experience. Then I'd sell it to recoup the cost of materials (and maybe a little more), then do the boat I really like and want to keep.

That way any newb mistakes you make will be on the first boat and you'll be able to do a better and quicker job on the inboard because you'll know exactly what you're doing.

I agree that is a better plan. But that leaves me for a summer with no boat, and I've already sold the motor and trailer so it won't bring much money ha a!

I had to spend most of last summer with no boat, and I promised my girlfriend I would get to take her out some this year. I'll probably bug you to death with questions, but I'll be able to get it right.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

To fix the cut hull do this...
Tape wax paper to the outside of the hull then cover with Packing Tape or Duct tape. Use PB and a putty knife to fill the cut on the inside. Sand back from the cut 6" all around. Lay a 1" strip of CSM over the Cut. Then Lay a 2" strip of 1708 over that. A 4" piece of CSM another 6" piece of 1708. Let cure over night. Sand the cut on the outside, lay a couple of layers of CSM and then use Fairing Material ( you can make your own from resin and glass bubbles) to fair it all in final sand to 180 grit, then Gelcoat or paint. DONE!!!!

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Also, I see little lateral support. I'd like to add a bulkhead spanning the entire boat about where the front and rear of the tank is. Sound like a good idea, or not necessary. I had figured 40 ft? of foam, does this seem right? Its by far the most expensive part of the build. I also planned one 6 inch strip of 1708 for tabbing, and 2 layers of 1.5 csm topside of the deck. As I saw on one of friscoboaters builds.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

To fix the cut hull do this...
Tape wax paper to the outside of the hull then cover with Packing Tape or Duct tape. Use PB and a putty knife to fill the cut on the inside. Sand back from the cut 6" all around. Lay a 1" strip of CSM over the Cut. Then Lay a 2" strip of 1708 over that. A 4" piece of CSM another 6" piece of 1708. Let cure over night. Sand the cut on the outside, lay a couple of layers of CSM and then use Fairing Material ( you can make your own from resin and glass bubbles) to fair it all in final sand to 180 grit, then Gelcoat or paint. DONE!!!!

Is it acceptable to use paint on that small spot with gel coat surrounding it? Even on the trailer its not visible without lying underneath.


Thanks! To both of you, now and for future help. The gash happens to be where my 1708 tabbing strip will be. Can I include that in the repair? Or do the repair as stated first then tab over that?

So far the builds I've read in detail used no cradle. Can you recommend any specific builds to help me get an idea of the proper cradle?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Fix first then tab. I'd just use gelcoat and get the tint as close as you can. If "Purty" is not an obsession you'll be fine.
this will show and tell you how to glass the Deck, Stringers, and Transom.."Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"
You have a "Bunk Trailer". You don't HAVE to make a cradle but it does make it easier at times. You can use Nylon Straps to hold the shape of the boat, along with some additional bottom support which can be attached to the trailer. Do some searching on the forum for Cradles and or Supporting Your boat during restoration. I think you'll find a lot of good examples.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Also, I see little lateral support. I'd like to add a bulkhead spanning the entire boat about where the front and rear of the tank is. Sound like a good idea, or not necessary. I had figured 40 ft? of foam, does this seem right? Its by far the most expensive part of the build. I also planned one 6 inch strip of 1708 for tabbing, and 2 layers of 1.5 csm topside of the deck. As I saw on one of friscoboaters builds.

Bulkheads are an excellent way to strengthen your boats overall structure. More deck, hull, and stringer strength.

When I do my fiberglass resto the deck framing will look like this old Wellcraft:

Floatation foam is figured in cubic feet, not square feet. If you give me the dimensions of the area you need to fill I'll figure it for you. I need the depth at the keel, the width or your deck and length of the area you plan to fill. Foam will not be your most expensive material... that'll probably be your poly resin and cloth/mat.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Yeah, I meant cubic!

I tried to calculate it using the widest and deepest point and divided by two. I haven't taken out for the tank though. I've ordered about 400$ worth of csm, epoxy for the bottom of deck, and poly. Foam comes out to about 260. I still have to order matt and oly for the stringers and buy all my wood. Haven't ordered anything special to make pb yet either.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Fix first then tab. I'd just use gelcoat and get the tint as close as you can. If "Purty" is not an obsession you'll be fine.
this will show and tell you how to glass the Deck, Stringers, and Transom.."Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"
You have a "Bunk Trailer". You don't HAVE to make a cradle but it does make it easier at times. You can use Nylon Straps to hold the shape of the boat, along with some additional bottom support which can be attached to the trailer. Do some searching on the forum for Cradles and or Supporting Your boat during restoration. I think you'll find a lot of good examples.

I want the boat to look nice, but perfect isn't necessary, especially since this isn't very visible.

I was thinking lay a couple 2 bys across the cap and screw a board at a 90 degree angle on each end to prevent the sides from spreading. And also stake off braces to a 2by running along the side of the boat in the longest straight section about midway up the blue stripe. With a couple shims to compensate for the slight curve?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Yeah, I meant cubic!

That sounds like a lot and I don't really see where you're going to put it all... unless your bilge is a lot deeper than it appears to be in the pics.

I'll check that quantity if you want me to and give me the above dimensions. Figuring cubic feet precisely is one of my jobs at work.