stringers help

[Redtruck12]

I re read through this thread from the start.
i don’t see or understand how this guy could feel he was left hanging or not advised.
in the end he paid someone to do it.
this is IMO an enthusiast site for people WILLING to take on projects
apparently andrzej isn’t and would rather pay someone (which is fine) but shouldn’t be disappointed.
he seems to be acting as this was a pay service

 

[andrzej]

im very sorry i been so rude
please forgive me
that guy told me that this is one day work
i agree to pay him
one week of nice weather he did nothing
now its raining a lot here in vancouver
so
i took the boat back to my possession
and im going to do it my self
im stuck for another 2 weeks with rain
my ? is
i removed the soaking foam
look like someone did bad job of fiberglassing the keel stringer
i will have to grind it
1' from the main keel stringer i have two fiberglass stringers on both sides (port and starboard )
they r lower than the main stringer (keel) and empty inside
the new deck when i will install is sitting on the fiberglass structure at the transom then going uo to 3" to the bow
right now i have one hole to drain the water from the deck and below
can i rise the deck about 2" at the transom so i could drill and have two separate water drains (one from under the deck and another from top of deck ?
this is important for me because i will install in hull transducer
so my keel stringer is about 3.5" high at the bow and 1,5" at the transom
then 2 fiberglass stringers on both sides about 3' long

 

[andrzej]

i have 20 years of experience with fiberglass but i never did stringers (
thats why i need ur help and advice
thank U

 

[andrzej]

more pictures

 

[chevymaher]

Make a little baby bilge like inboard outboards have for the transducer. Have a cover for it matches the floor. Then you have access for repairs later heaven forbid.

 

[andrzej]

thats i was thinking :
but
my plan was to use 6" round inspection port
cut out the deck and if nececery istal a rise ring to accommodate the transducer

 

[andrzej]

"Make a little baby bilge like inboard outboards"
i dont think that i understand

 

[zool]

Hey Andrzej

After looking over what u have, and what u want to achieve, I think u have more demo work 1st'

Leave the 2 outer stringers as is, just grind them clean. As for the keel stringer, at this point, u may as well measure it like u did, and cut it out from the hull with whatever..sawzall, multitool, cutoff wheel.....

Then grind clean the hull from the center stringer out to about 6-8" up the gunnels past where u want the new deck height.

If ur sure the transom is good, then remake the center stringer with the transom brace out of 3/4 exterior plywood, bed it in thickened resin, cove the hull bottom to stringer contour, and encapsulate with cloth for epoxy or cloth/mat for poly...

Re-encapsulate the outer glass stringers to a height that levels the center stringer to the deck height,

Set the new deck and fill with foam.

The mini bilge chevy is talking about is just a fabricated compartment under deck to give access to a thru hull transducer, or bilge pump.

If u do it right, most here will walk you thru it all, step by step.

 

[zool]

As for the below deck drains, you dont want an ebb ad flow of water down there, the foamed area should be completely closed off and always dry, but redundant bilge pumps can be put in isolated bilges, and pumped over above the water line.

 

[chevymaher]

"Make a little baby bilge like inboard outboards"
i dont think that i understand

The transducer has to be on the hull just plain glass. Nothing can be under it. I am assuming from your description the deck goes all the way back preventing this. This is the bilge in the picture on my boat. It just needs to be framed in so it can go down to the actual hull for the transducer. And only that big or like Zool suggested put the bilge pump in there also. Since water finds the lowest point.

If this isnt as clear as mud yet. I can draw a sketch of your boat with a baby bilge in the deck.

 

[andrzej]

wow )
thank u all.
im learning as i go
i decided to make original floor but instead of 1/2 " i will use 5/8"
the under plywood is sealed with 1708 and polyester resin and is done
now
i will make pattern from the old deck and transfer to new one
then i will glue new deck with thickened resin to the stringers (not using screws ) and some weight
then when the plywood is in place on the boat i will use 1708 tapes (9") to secure the plywood to the hull all around then i could l
put another 6" 1708 around the edges
finally
lay dawn 1708 (50" wide) on the top of the tapes
i think that this way i could achieve smoother transition from the hull to the deck floor
i will be using laminating poly resin (unwaxed)
after finish with that **** job my plan is
apply first coat unwaxed gelcoat then second coat waxed gelcoat with some additive for non slip (i dont know yet which one )
then i should be done
my ? is should i use the 1708 again for the top and poly resin just to sealed ?
thank U
i know its long and hope that u understand what im trying to do

 

[andrzej]

just to ad
the sell person recommended interfibre as filler with poly resin with this project

http://www.fibertek.ca/fillers.htm

 

[Woodonglass]

IMHO 1708 is Not needed for the Deck 2 layers of CSM is all you need especially since you're gelcoating it. 1708 for Tabbing to the side walls is correct. Also, Cabosil and Chopped fibers for filling gaps is fine. You can use fibertek but it's no better or worse than the milled fibers. In fact I use my scraps of CSM and 1708 and with scissors I make my own small chunks of fibers. the fibers help bind the Poly and keep it from cracking. It gets really hard and brittle when fully cured. Epoxy doesn't.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Was the original deck held in with only an adhesive? No screws or staples?

 

[andrzej]

with few screws on the middle

 

[andrzej]

my idea of using 1708 was that has csm on the bottom and cloth on top so i wont have do twice like with csm only

 

[Woodonglass]

Your logic is sound and there's NO reason not to use the 1708. I was just saying that it wasn't needed for strength and the fabric texture has a tendency to show thru but with Gelcoat it should be fine

 

[andrzej]

thank u
my long weekend project

 

[andrzej]

one more ?
after the floor is finish with the unwaxed gelcoat what non slip additive to use with the second coat with waxed gelcoat
i will be using white gelcoat

 

[andrzej]

also ?
if i will do it with two coats of csm
what oz do i need to use ?
in here they selling only 1 oz or 1.5 oz
thank u
if i go with 1708 i will have to use 1 gal of resin
if i go with 2 coats of csm how much resin do i need ?
i have to be sure that i enough materials to finish this project over the long weekend (stores r closed )
i have to laminate 32 sq/ft
4 foot at the transom going narrower toward bow
8' long
i hope that u got the picture