Re: Stringers Flawed By Design????
I wonder where oops has been? I have been eagerly awaiting the rest of his last reply.
lol....sorry....its the beginning of boating season here, and my customers are starting to call..
as well.....moderation dutys are getting busier.
I have a few pics of my bow and transom area attached, and if it's not too much trouble, I would like to get your opinion on a couple of things.
First, I wasn't quite clear in my understanding of what part of the hull you traced to get the outline for the bottom of the stringer. I want to assume it was the bottom "V", but I want to make certain before I envoke Murphy (smile). And, is that outline carried over to all hull length stringers, or is each position done individually?
one of the things about the extension thread, is that i went to a 5 stringer system rather than a 2.
your boat has 2 stringers......the basic rule of thumb is to copy what was there, and make it better
the post and scribe method (that i used) is when you have no idea or template to follow.
so if you (and i dont think you will) dont get the stringers out all in one piece.....
use that method to follow the shape of the hull where your two stringers are.....one will be the same as the other. so no need to do it twice.
once you have the bottom hull shape....the height is easy.......just use a string line form each deck hull joints....and measure down to the hull.....this will give you the stringer height !
now.....the stringer does not sit on the hull.......there is a small gap between the hull and the wood.....i now use popsicle sticks to keep the new stringer off the hull...so you have tolerances if you mess up a bit !
between the gap (of the hull and stringer, where the popcicle sticks go) you will use a bedding compound....i suggest a thickened poly resin we call peanut butter....(this is because the resin is thickened to the consistancy of peanut butter)
when you read threads here at iboats....you will see the term used many times...in fact...you will even see PB.
now you know what we are talking about...
side note......there are many different types of thickened resin.....some for bedding stringers and transoms....this is a structural type...
some for sanding or fairing....and some for tabbing or filling gaps.
each is a different mix.
the recipes for each is in the hull extension thread.
if you wish, i can give you links, or type out each recipe for the different uses !
With the engine mounting blocks, how do you account for the glass over the blocks where hieght is concerned? Is there a tollerance (+/-) to play with or is it pretty much a dead-on thing? Just curious.
one of the good things about being where you are in the process of restoring the boat is that you can take measurements of what you have now......remember.....the rule of thumb......copy what they did....but make it better.
the tolerances are approximately 2 inches.....however....with different isolators (engine mount shock absorber thingys. you can have as much as 4 inches.....that is alot !
In the pics of my transom and aft area, it looks like it's a combination of fiberglass form and wood inserts that were glassed over. I drilled test holes in all the stringers, enginge mount block and the transom, and all of it came out wet, if any came out at all. In your opinion, based on what you can see from the pics, can I replace the transom wood without pulling the cap? I absolutely have no means to pull it or store once it was off. Would you say that I have a full wood transom or does it look molded with some wood bonded to the glass for outdrive support?
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your transom is a full wood transom and engine motor mount system...
your hull is an empty shape.........every where that is not part of the hull shape..(like an empty row boat) is a piece of wood, with fiberglass over top...
any wet or rot wood under the fiberglass that covers it......must come out !
that means your transom is wood with glass over it....your motor mounts are wood with glass over them....as well as the stringers..
the same with the bow you were asking about.
as far as pulling your cap.....i dont think you have to.....most i/o's you dont....but it depends on the boat.....as i mentioned.....after the motor is out and the inner drive plate is out.....we will know.
but i doubt it !
ok......lets get back to the basic first steps....
number one.....get it off the trailer if its a roller trailer....if not....and it is a bunk trailer....make sire it is correctly on the bunks......and go for it.....but if its a roller trailer....get it off...
if you need instructions....ill type them out.....but its easy ! just hit search for now !
ok,,,,,,if you have any other questions.....please send me a pm with the link of this thread....ill answer as soon as i can.
ill try and follow along....but we get really busy.....so if i miss any thing ....please do not hesitate at all to pm me....really.....just give me the link and ill be right here.
i hope this answeres some of your questions, and gets you on the right track.
cheers
oops
ps.....rogers 454....can help you with the omc.....
i would loose it.
the 4.3 is the same....chev is a chev....just change the perifferals....and the drive package.
the omc stuff you can sell for the price of a new sei (merc copy) drive.....the bell and gymbal housing and rams will cost a bit more....but are a dime a dozen!
