Stringer repair drawing....

[NC waterboy]

19 ft. Center Console - flat bottom skiff.
(3) - 16 ft of stringer needing to be replaced as well as deck.
Boat will be used for fishing.....HARD!!!

After having iboat forum overload, this is what I THINK I've decided.
Do you pros see any flaws or shall I order my material? THANKS

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

Yep, except I would probably put another layer of 1708 over the top and down the sides a little further (almost to the hull)

 

[NC waterboy]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

Yep, except I would probably put another layer of 1708 over the top and down the sides a little further (almost to the hull)

Commander, you're talking about the very top of the stringer...correct? If so, should I put both layers over top of the two 1708 layers on the sides of the stringer? Thanks much!

One more thing...I was figuring my material list, Vinylester resin looks like it may run me $100 more than Polyester, is it worth the difference in cost? Is one easier to work with than the other?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

Me Personally, I'd just use the Poly. and Yeah, Id just run the 2 layers of 1708 from the hull up and over and call it good. I like www.uscomposites.com and I use their 435 resin.

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

Great drawing. Great for people like me that need a visial.

 

[NC waterboy]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

Me Personally, I'd just use the Poly. and Yeah, Id just run the 2 layers of 1708 from the hull up and over and call it good. I like www.uscomposites.com and I use their 435 resin.

Got it! It AT LEAST feels like I'm making progress so thanks again.

Great drawing. Great for people like me that need a visial.

My pleasure frisco. As much info as I've taken from this forum I hope to contribute some myself!

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

I'm not sure where you were going to use the "poly only" application, but it doesn't work that well on anything, you need to use glass for it to be of much value. Polyester resin has little strength on its own and tends to crack and peel when used without glass.

 

[NC waterboy]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

I'm not sure where you were going to use the "poly only" appication, but it doesn't work that well on anything, you need to use glass for it to be of much value. Polyester resin has little strength on its own and tends to crack and peel when used without glass.

My thinking is to just seal the bottom of deck ply with a coat of resin (only) as appeared was done when originally built and that lasted 20 years without proper boat maintenance and unsealed screw holes top-side. Obviously I'm hoping there will never be water in there but it's coming someday.

You thinking I should go ahead and lay some glass on it? That will be another 6 to 7 yards of glass and maybe a little more resin than it would take to just coat it with resin only. I can't imagine the weight been too much...you?

 

[nemo2011]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

Great drawing,words not needed!

 

[NC waterboy]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

Yep, except I would probably put another layer of 1708 over the top and down the sides a little further (almost to the hull)

Change made as suggested by Woodonglass...Thanks Wood!

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

The bottom side of the ply will see water after a short period of time and its the worst situation for it, very high and continuos humiditity.
Once water finds its way into the bilge (and it will) it will just sit there with no place to go. A thin layer of resin isn't all that water resistant, especially when you're dealing with water vapor (high humidity), think of Gore Tex, water won't go through it, but water vapor will, this is how a thin layer of resin will perform. Once the wood starts to absorb water it will start to swell, the swelling plus any stress from running the boat will cause the weak and brittle resin to crack letting in that much more water. Adding a layer of glass gives a thicker barrier and enough strength to resist cracking. The added weight will be about 1/2 a pound per square foot.

Short term you won't see an issue even it you don't coat it at all

 

[fstorm08]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

Change made as suggested by Woodonglass...Thanks Wood!

Nice drawing.... thank you!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

NCW,

As Ondarvr said, Coating bottom of your deck ply with resin only is NOT recommended. It wil CRACK. You MUST apply a layer of 1.5 oz csm and then the resin, and I HIGHLY recommend that you do this.

 

[NC waterboy]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

As Ondarvr said, Coating bottom of your deck ply with resin only is NOT recommended. It wil CRACK. You MUST apply a layer of 1.5 oz csm and then the resin, and I HIGHLY recommend that you do this.

Thanks again you guys! I couldn't imagine how much trial and error you all had to suffer through before the internet was available so I do appreciate and respect all of the hard work before you ever had a forum name.

No more (Resin Only)!!!

 

[NC waterboy]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

Hello again. Due to having some unexpected financial issues I've had to put off the repairs to my boat until now. Since my last post a buddy has given me 10 yards of 24-15 stitch-mat that he had. I'd like to see what you guys would think about using 24-15 in place of the 17-08. If so how many layers on the stringers. Also, where the new glass will attach to the hull, do I sand the hull just to get it smooth or do I grind it until some of the original fibers are exposed? Thanks

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

Hello NCW ..

2 things .. Instead of using mat and poly on the bottom side of the deck..why not just coat with epoxy.

Sandwich the glass material with 1.5 oz mat .. both on top and bottom completely to the edges of the 1708 or the 2415.

I like the 2415 woving myself. It would depend on how old/unflexable it is. 2-3 layers should do it.

Yes you would Grind the hull with 24 or 26 grit to expose raw laminate ( not just some..but all working areas ) before your layups.

Pics please .

YD.

 

[NC waterboy]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

Thanks YD!
I will keep your suggestions in mind for the deck but first I must replace the stringers. Should/Can I use the 2415 on the stringers...up and over the 6 inch high, 3/4 inch ply stringers and back down to the hull? Will it make the turns, and if so, how many layers? The stringers will be laminated with 1.5 oz mat first.
The material was purchased from a local boat manufacturer less than a month ago. My buddy that is giving it to me says he used it because it was $1.50 cheaper, per pound, than the 1708.
My computer messed up so I dont have my pics up here yet but I will post some later today. There are some in another of my posts about "stringer repair". I'll see if I can figure out how to move them over to this one. thanks

 

[NC waterboy]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

Here is a earlier post with pictures attached

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=463190

 

[NC waterboy]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

Grinded and did most of my sanding the past few days, I plan to start getting the stringers tabbed in this weekend. Can anyone advise me about the 2415 on the stringers? Also, have any of you guys used the fiberglass dust, from grinding, in the p-nut butter mix?

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Stringer repair drawing....

I'd like to see what you guys would think about using 24-15 in place of the 17-08. If so how many layers on the stringers. Also, where the new glass will attach to the hull, do I sand the hull just to get it smooth or do I grind it until some of the original fibers are exposed?

Sandwich the glass material with 1.5 oz mat .. both on top and bottom completely to the edges of the 1708 or the 2415.

2-3 layers should do it.

Yes you would Grind the hull with 24 or 26 grit to expose raw laminate ( not just some..but all working areas ) before your layups.

I will keep your suggestions in mind for the deck but first I must replace the stringers. Should/Can I use the 2415 on the stringers...up and over the 6 inch high, 3/4 inch ply stringers and back down to the hull? Will it make the turns, and if so, how many layers? The stringers will be laminated with 1.5 oz mat first.

I think you misunderstood me .. Yes on the using 2415 for your stringers. As far as making the turn on the top of the stringer...hmm..Probably not without bubbles. I would just lam a few layers of mat on the caps of your stringers ..

As far as using grinding dust in my fillers..only in a pinch for spot repairs..never in fillets.

Heed my advice on the prep

Yes you would Grind the hull with 24 or 26 grit to expose raw laminate ( not just some..but all working areas ) before your layups.

YD.

PS. you Are wearing a respo .. right ..