Stringer question and opinions on it pls....

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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11,527
Re: Stringer question and opinions on it pls....

A fiberglass laminate is not opaque unless it is very thick, gel coat isn't really opaque either unless it's fairly thick (depends on color too). So seeing light through a hull side can be normal, painting it on both sides makes it far less noticeable.
 

blkvyyper

Seaman
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Jul 13, 2011
Messages
71
Re: Stringer question and opinions on it pls....

Another question to anyone who can answer it, can the old ground out fiberglass be used for anything or should it be disposed of?

thank,

BV
 

blkvyyper

Seaman
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Jul 13, 2011
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Re: Stringer question and opinions on it pls....

thanks ondarvr for the reply, just had me nervous that it could be another place for water to "seep" in, but if the experts say its nothing to worry about then i wont. can the ground out fiberglass be reused for anything or should it be disposed of?

thanks again,
BV
 

ondarvr

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Re: Stringer question and opinions on it pls....

About the only thing you can use the dust for is filler in putty, but the putty needs to be used up quickly because the dust can react with the resin and cause it to start gelling.
 

blkvyyper

Seaman
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Re: Stringer question and opinions on it pls....

About the only thing you can use the dust for is filler in putty, but the putty needs to be used up quickly because the dust can react with the resin and cause it to start gelling.

Thanks for the reply ondarvr,
Filler, do you mean as in filling in spaces or gaps? could it be used to make "peanut butter"?

Thanks again,

BV
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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Re: Stringer question and opinions on it pls....

Peanut butter is another term used here for putty, fillers are the stuff that goes into resin to thicken it up and turn it into putty.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Feb 26, 2005
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Re: Stringer question and opinions on it pls....

I suggest you research some more..

Pics Please.

YD.
 

Scott Chinsota

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
216
Re: Stringer question and opinions on it pls....

While there is nothing wrong with pre-glassing the stringers on a small boat, there is no real advantage in doing it either, it just adds time.

it worked out well for me. I just posted in another thread about the first stringer i tried to apply mat to. the wood was not primed well enough to prevent dry spots forming. I had to grind it off and apply another coat of primer and try again. thank god it wasnt set in the boat yet. i am a novice and am thankful to have learned that lesson in the garage. having to grind them smooth to install them sux but the experience for a beginner is worth the hassle.
 

ondarvr

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Re: Stringer question and opinions on it pls....

it worked out well for me. I just posted in another thread about the first stringer i tried to apply mat to. the wood was not primed well enough to prevent dry spots forming. I had to grind it off and apply another coat of primer and try again. thank god it wasnt set in the boat yet. i am a novice and am thankful to have learned that lesson in the garage. having to grind them smooth to install them sux but the experience for a beginner is worth the hassle.

Pre-coating the wood with resin is what stops the resin from being sucked out of the glass, not pre-glassing them. My instructions do not say pre-coating with resin can be skipped, it's a very important step, only that pre-glassing isn't an important step on these small boats.


One big issue with pre-glassing is the time it takes for most beginners to cut and install the stringers, You only have a limited amount of time before you need to grind the entire surface of a pre-glassed stringer. If you can do the entire job indoors in just a few days, then it isn't a problem, do it outside or let it sit for a week or so and you need to grind it thoroughly for it to bond well.

Resin coating should be done after installation for the same reason.
 

Scott Chinsota

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
216
Re: Stringer question and opinions on it pls....

wasn't trying to be contrary and i didn't skip priming. i'm glad i didn't have to fix it while it was mounted in the boat. your way is faster for someone with your experience. beginners make mistakes that are easier to fix with the pieces not yet affixed to the boat. :)
 

blkvyyper

Seaman
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Jul 13, 2011
Messages
71
Re: Stringer question and opinions on it pls....

Thanks to all the experts who have contributed to my thread, i haven't started on my boat yet, i'm in the process of finishing up my shop to work on it. when i get to the point, i will post pics of the progress of the restore. I think i'm gonna need all the help i can get. Since this will be a winter project and if i do decide to encase the stringers in glass, to install them into the boat, is it a better choice to use peanut butter to glue in the stringers or to use PL? i was reading PL tends to bubble causing air pockets. Anyone know what would be cold weather combination of resin and hardner? My boat was made using Poly, although most people on here use epoxy. I was told that epoxy is stronger but doesn't last as long as poly does. Is there any truth to this? I was told use epoxy for gluing and poly for glassing. I'd rather stick with one or the other.

I'd also would appreciate someone sending me a link on how to measure accurately make a template for new stringers, in other words, if there were no stringers for templates. I saw a guy using stakes to get the different depths and contours then use the "connect - the - dot" method for a rough template, i understand that, but how do you determine the correct height and contours of the stringer and bulkheads to the hull? I hope i used the correct terms, if not forgive me, new to all this. I was also told that you don't install the stringers directly on the hull, use something like little pieces of foam board to provide a spacing to keep from getting hard spots on the hull, is this true also?

Thanks again,

BV
 
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