Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone diag

lakelivin

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Been struggling to get my 4.3L '89 Cobra adjusted for the past several months. Fortunately I've been in & out of town, so not as much wasted boating time as there might be otherwise. Note that I've got all of Stuart's stuff printed out and the OMC Service Manual as well.<br /><br />Last year it started to require moving the cockpit shift lever further & further forward (more acceleration) to 'catch' forward gear. This spring I attempted the 5 point adjustment procedure (drive still attached) and ended up with reverse working fine, but not being able to engage forward at all. <br /><br />I had previously replaced the remote shift cable, but the transom shift cable had never been replaced so I bought a new one and put it in. Did adjustments exactly as specified in Stuarts documents and the OMC Service Manual (several times, lol/cryol). But even though I had the interior 7 9/16" dimension correct with the drive off, when I put it back on the dimension would be between 7 3/4" and 8", and I couldn't it adjusted correctly from that point. <br /><br />I split the drive and checked the shift rod height. Adjusted it to as close to 7 13/64" as I could measure (from the casing, not the shift rod cover). The bellcrank seemed to line up just a bit low with the shift rod notch when putting the drive back on the boat, so I split the drive again & remeasured the rod height. It was spot on from the right side of the casing, just a tiny bit high from the left side of the casing, so I lowered it one revolution.<br /><br />This last time I also 'extended' the transom cable at the engine end by unscrewing the threaded tubing that connects the casing guide to the shift cable by maybe 3/8", then set everything according to specs. My thinking was that if the 7 9/16" got extended again when I put the drive back on, I could thread the tubing back in the entire way and shorten to the correct measurement. <br /><br />After putting the drive back on the boat, the 7 9/16" measurement was ok. Did the Forward adjustment, everything ok. Did the Reverse adjustment, everything seemed ok (although it required letting the remote shift cable slide to the far end of the adjustment slot in the shift arm to get the ESA switch roller aligned in the center of the shift actuator v notch). Reverse engaged fine.<br /><br />But then when I go back to test, forward gear wouldn't engage, the 7 9/16" measurement was at least 7 7/8", and rescrewing the threaded tubing that connects the casing guide to the transom cable didn't really affect the 7 7/8" measurement to any extent.<br /><br />It's killing me in that it seems like I should be able to figure this out based on the fact that the transom shift cable measurement at the engine gets 'extended' past 7 9/16" either when I put the drive back on or after doing the reverse adjustment at the engine . But I'm drawing blanks.<br /><br />Some thoughts: I pulled the big shift cable tube out from behind the engine so that it ran straight through the bilge in order to make it easier to put the new transom shift cable in. Any chance that I might have rerouted it enough after the new cable was in to vary the distance between the transom mount and the engine attacment points to cause this problem? (it runs under the starter and behind the power steering module as specified, and it's not binding anywhere).<br /><br />When measuring the shift rod height, is there much variation depending on where you measure from the lower unit casing? I didn't pull off the shift rod cover, just measured from the casing on either side of the cover.<br /><br />Other than that, I'm drawing blanks. Anyone out there who can use these clues to give me an idea of what might be wrong?<br /><br />rodbolt, you talked once about making the adjustment at the transom first, then adjusting at the engine end. How do you do that given that setting the cable retainer ultimately sets the cable length, no?<br /><br />If anyone has any ideas, please pass them along. I'm at my wits end. If I have to pull the drive again (likely) and close up pictures of the belllcrank/shift lever/shif cable guide might be of help let me now & I'll post some. Would be even easier to post pics of the cables and shift lever at the engine mount if that would help as well.
 

rodbolt

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Sep 1, 2003
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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

let me find my manual. may take a day. gotta refresh my muddies.<br /> but I always do the engine end last. have you checked the shift cable from the conrol box for proper throw ?
 

lakelivin

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Originally posted by rodbolt:<br /> let me find my manual. may take a day. gotta refresh my muddies.<br /> but I always do the engine end last. have you checked the shift cable from the conrol box for proper throw ?
No, think I'll do that right now. Got a little bit of daylight left...
 

lakelivin

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

CHecked shift cable from control box, pretty sure thats not it. For one thing, I'm getting between 1 1/4" and 1 3/8" throw in either direction from neutral, depending on setting (I think I read somewhere that total throw should be 2 1/2" total?). <br /><br />Plus, with both shift cables unhooked at engine end, the remote shift cable is now at 7 3/4" while firmly in neutral (little play in cable).
 

lakelivin

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Anyone know if the 'throw' distance of the shift rod from neutral to fully engaged in forward is the same as from neutral to fully engaged in reverse?<br /><br />If so, seems like this this might be a way for me to double check correct shift rod height...
 

lakelivin

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

ok, more info, don't know if it will help at all.<br /><br />Measurement from edge of the cable crimp to the center of the shift pin hole is currently between 7 3/4" and 7 7/8" in neutral (this reflects the range of play in the cable).<br /><br />After disconnecting the remote shift cable, I measured the distance the transom shift cable moved to a) engage the gear and b) max travel at full extension (contraction) of the transom shift cable in the respective direction for reverse or forward.<br /><br />Measuring from 7 3/4" (short end of play in neutral), the transom shift cable traveled 1/2" to engage reverse gear and the max length of travel was 7/8".<br /><br />Measuring from 7 7/8" (long end of play in neutral), the transom shift cable traveled 11/16" to engage forward gear and the max length of travel was 3/4".<br /><br />I reattached the remote shift cable, adjusted it slightly (by sliding it's position in the adjustment slot in the shift arm back towards the center a bit), and found that I could engage both forward and reverse from the cockpit control box. Gonna put it in the water & see how it does. I know I haven't got it right yet, but the boat prolly needs to be started & run a bit, even if it's in neutral. <br /><br />Hope all this isn't more confusing; if not, perhaps it will help someone figure out my problem (the boat one, don't need any comments on the rest of them, lol).
 

lakelivin

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Put the boat in the water yesterday and here's what I found: reverse engages quickly, smoothly, & easily. <br /><br />Forward engages much later & drive seems to 'buck' a bit before smoothing out (jumps into & out of gear once or twice). Shifting isn't hard, just can't seem to get it adjusted correctly. <br /><br />Before I put the gear oil back in and tested shifting from just the transom cable, both forward and reverse seemed to have two 'points of engagement' that I could feel. Shifting isn't hard, just can't seem to get it adjusted correctly. <br /><br />Gonna order a new shift rod wiper & cover gasket so I can pull the cover & see what the shift rod looks like. Maybe I'll get lucky & find the problem.
 

marunr

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

LakeLivin,<br />I have re-read this post and after pulling my outdrive yesterday, I wonder if your bellcrank may be indexed incorrectly. Did you look at link on Stuarts page? <br /> http://www.hastings.org/~stuart/cobra/sb4052_4.jpg <br /><br />If the bellcrank is correctly indexed, when the lower vertical edge of the guide is flush with the pivot housing, the bellcrank will be at 90 degrees. When you set your bellcrank at 90 degrees, does it move the lower vertical tab away from flush? If yours looks like the bad one in the picture, it would move your measurement out, like it's doing.<br /><br />Just an idea.
 

lakelivin

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

hi marunr,<br /><br />I did look at Stuarts doc and 'eyeballed' the angle; it seemed close, but next time I pull the drive I'm gonna take the bellcrank and shift lever off, put the screw back in, and measure with a square. It might be off some, but certainly not as much as in the picture. As far as comparing the 'body of bellcrank 90 degrees to casing' method vs. the 'lower vertical edge of guide flush with edge of casing' method, couple of observations:<br /><br />1. given that the body of the bell crank isn't 'symmetric' (i.e., it's thinner in the front than the back), I have a hard time guaging when it's 90 deg to the casing, even when using a t-square. Would be SO much easier if it were symmetric, then I could just align the top or bottom edge, instead of trying to guage the centerline of the body of the bellcrank.<br /><br />2. there is a difference between my best estimate of setting the bellcrank at 90 deg to the casing and lining up the lower edge of the shift lever guide even with the casing. BUT, did you notice that in the 'old' directions (lower vertical edge of guide flush with edge of casing), it specifies a dimension of 7 5/8" inside the boat whereas in the 'new' directions (body of bellcrank 90 degrees to casing), it specifies a dimension of 7 9/16" inside the boat? That implies to me that the there should be a bit of a difference if you line up the bellcrank at 90 deg as compared to setting casing guide even with the housing. Don't know how much that 1/16" inside measurement difference would mean w.r.t. to the length of the shift guide tab being away from flush to the pivot housing surface. Probably not as much as I'm seeing.<br /><br />Just realized another thing; the original instructions said to position so that "the lower vertical edge of guide tab is flush with pivot housing gasket surface". That would seem to imply measuring it with the gasket in place; I've been comparing the guide tab to the bare pivot housing surface, not the surface with the gasket in place. I know the gasket isn't that thick, but these things are so precise wonder if that could be enough to make a difference. That's probably not the cause of my problem, too much change in the interieor cable measurement when I put the drive back on, but interested to know how others align the shift tab; with gasket in place or not.<br /><br />Bottom line is that I've got about a 7 3/4" measurement at the engine end of the transom shift cable. Made adjustments at engine end to the point that I've got about equal travel in forward & reverse, so boat works, but shift engages a bit 'late' in both directions.<br /><br />Will carefully check angle of bell crank & shift lever next time I pull drive. Will also pull shift rod cover & take a look at the shift rod (that should allow me to more exactly measure the shift rod height than doing it from the edge of the casing anyways). <br /><br />You may well be right about the bellcrank angle. Just trying to think which would push the inside shift cable measurement 3/16" wider when I put the drive back on, and cause too much 'travel' in the transome shift cable; the bellcrank angle being greater than 90 deg or the bellcrank angle being less than 90 deg. I'm not too good at visualizing those spatial things. Probably one of the reasons I could never be a natural mechanic, lol. <br /><br />If the bellcrank angle is off, anyone know if it's correctable (JB Weld & redrilling, perhaps?) as compared to buying a new bellcrank? I'm pretty sure those buggars are relatively expensive (at least for me at the present time).<br /><br />By the way, did you get your outdrive holder built, and if so, how did it work?
 

marunr

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Yes, I got the holder built and it worked pretty well..only problem being that my driveway is a little sloped so it's kind of hard to get it positioned perfectly. It did make it quite a bit easier to put the outdrive back on since I had to turn the u-joints with a screwdriver a little bit.<br /><br />I don't think having the gasket on would make the difference you're talking about.<br /><br />When I look at the picture you posted on your question about replacing the cable, it appears the bellcrank is pretty close to 90, but the vertical guide tab is pushed in pretty far from flush with the pivot housing. <br /><br />I hope you get it figured out.
 

marunr

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Yes, I got the holder built and it worked pretty well..only problem being that my driveway is a little sloped so it's kind of hard to get it positioned perfectly. It did make it quite a bit easier to put the outdrive back on since I had to turn the u-joints with a screwdriver a little bit.<br /><br />I don't think having the gasket on would make the difference you're talking about.<br /><br />When I look at the picture you posted on your question about replacing the cable, it appears the bellcrank is pretty close to 90, but the vertical guide tab is pushed in pretty far from flush with the pivot housing. Are you sure the shift lever (with the roller) is screwed in to the hole pre-drilled on the bellcrank? <br /><br />Anyway, I hope you get it figured out.
 

lakelivin

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Yeah, unless there is something other to be screwed in besides that big screw that connects the two.<br /><br />It's gonna be a couple of weeks before I'll have time to pull the drive again, but will look real closely at the bellcrank/ shift lever angle, and pull the cover from the shift rod & take a close look at that. Gotta be one of the two I think.
 

rojoc

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

I had pretty much the same problem with my 88' 5.0 cobra. Took the boat out into the Long Island Sound on a calm day and made some adjustments. I first disconnected the linkage between the shift handle and the carb.(At the carb.) I tried shifting, no change. Reconnected the linkage and disconnected the linkage at the top of the shift lever(on the engine). With the motor running I manually pushed the shift lever (at the engine) and got reverse. I then moved the lever the opposite way and tried to get forward. Some grinding, not a smooth shift. I then removed the trunnion on the cable that went to the outdrive and turned a few turns.(Count the turns) Reinstalled trunnion and had some improvement, but not great. A couple of more turns on the trunnion and finally got it pretty good. Tried reverse again and all was well. Reinstalled all the linkage and went for a run. Problem solved! I think this might be worth a shot before pulling the drive again or ar least eliminate the possibility of faulty cables. Good luck!!
 

lakelivin

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

rojoc,<br /><br />Thanks for the suggestion. Thats pretty much what I did, except I did it with someone turning the prop rather than while running the boat. I got things working, but something is still amiss beyond any adjustments at the engine end. there is too much play in the transom shift cable, I'm sure because I haven't ben able to get it to the correct 7 9/16" measurent when the drive goes back on. i'm still gonna try to find out the cause of the original problem at the transom/outdrive end.<br /><br />one suggestion: since you adjusted things, you may want to check the positioning of your ESA switches relative to the two cams if you haven't already. I had to alter the remote shift cable so that the fixed cam was not centered, but more towards one end in order to make the type shift cable adjustments you describe. I also had to move the adjustable cam to make sure it engaged in proper position after the adjustments. Just something you may want to double check if you haven't alreafy.
 

rojoc

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

I had also made many adjustments on the trailer, but It seems to be the torque on the prop in the water that made a difference. As far as the cams go I have the upgrade ESA module and the importance of the cams seems to be negligible. Considering what is left after all you have done, if the drive is off again you might want to check the condition of the bellcrank (mine was bent at the o-ring groove)check the shift lever AND roller (my roller had flat spots) and check the shift cable guide(the slot in the guide was worn). There is also a bushing behind the shift lever that I needed to replace. I determined the bellcrank got bent from forcing the shift because of a build up of corrosion in the pocket behind the shift lever arm. I couldn't make a full swing! After all that and still can't get it right I would have to think excessive wear in the clutch dog and gears and/or bearing inside the lower unit. (Hopefully not) Good luck.
 

lakelivin

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

rojoc,<br /><br />Did you replace your bellcrank after you determined it was bent at the o ring groove, or leave it and compensate with the adjustments you mentioned?<br /><br />I had the shift lever & roller off & they seemed ok, but I'll double check next time I pull the drive. There might be a little wear in the slot of the shift cable guide, but not much.<br /><br />One other thing i realized late in the process was how to best remove play in the transom shift cable. Stuarts description is much clearer than the OMC service manual, which I was mostly refering to. Not positive, but I think effectively taking out play may be related to the prop torque you were talking about above. But bottom line is that i still haven't got as much travel (I said 'play' above, but it's really travel) in the transom shift cable as I should, therefore shifts are engaging later than they should in both forward & reverse. I think that makes sense, given that the 7 9/16" spec I set at the engine end gets pushed out to 7 3/4" or so after I put the drive back on the boat; shift cable too long would mean shorter travel, right? (I really do suck at visualizing those spatial relationship things).<br /><br />The bushing you mentioned is starting to corrode, but isn't interfering with the shift process (thats an expensive little bugger to replace, no?). I cleaned it up but left it for now since 'hard' shifting isn't a problem, just getting the correct set-up. <br /><br />Anyways, thanks for your thoughts, I'll let you know what I see next time I pull the drive (probably be a couple of weeks).
 

rojoc

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

Replaced bellcrank, shift lever, shift cable guide and lever bushing. By doing this I eliminated some of the free play I had in the shift process. The biggest improvement was the cleaning of the junk that had accumulated BEHIND the shift lever in the pocket of the transom mount. I haven't a clue how that stuff got in there! Looked like a combination of salt residue and grease, but packed so tight that the lever couldn't make a full throw. I believe this is what caused the belIcrank to bend. I am now in the process of preparing a spare complete outdrive for when I have a problem. Pull one off, slap the spare on and continue with my season! I built a small cart on wheels and can change drives in 1/2 hour. Time doesn't allow for major repairs in the summer. Well again, good luck.
 

PhilSimmons

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone diag

Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone

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Replaced bellcrank, shift lever, shift cable guide and lever bushing. By doing this I eliminated some of the free play I had in the shift process. The biggest improvement was the cleaning of the junk that had accumulated BEHIND the shift lever in the pocket of the transom mount. I haven't a clue how that stuff got in there! Looked like a combination of salt residue and grease, but packed so tight that the lever couldn't make a full throw. I believe this is what caused the belIcrank to bend. I am now in the process of preparing a spare complete outdrive for when I have a problem. Pull one off, slap the spare on and continue with my season! I built a small cart on wheels and can change drives in 1/2 hour. Time doesn't allow for major repairs in the summer. Well again, good luck.


The biggest improvement was the cleaning of the junk that had accumulated BEHIND the shift lever in the pocket of the transom mount.


Can someone help find out where this person is talking about...is this accessible with the outdrive off ?

Many thanks,
Phil
 

a70eliminator

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone diag

This is the pocked that accumulated gunk, if you pack some triple guard into the hollow spaces it will prevent the buildup of dirt, this is just how mine looked after drive was pulled. Disreguard the masking tape it was a template for my custom made line up tool, it's the area that you see the bluish grease where dirt build up happens.
 

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PhilSimmons

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Re: Still can't get Cobra shift adjusted! I have clues that might help someone diag

Thank you A70 ! I'll be checking / cleaning out mine this week, and report back if I have the same problem.

I replaced all my cables last year, and went through the whole stuart hastings adjustment procedure, my esa works fine, my idle speed is 500 rpm, fresh oil in outdrive, checked cable drag at transom last year, it was only 2.0 lbs. Mine shifts ok, but it is still not "buttery smooth" like I hear can be achieved.

I was also wondering about the shift-rod in the outdrive and whether it is in need of lubrication and how to go about that.

Thanks again !

Phil
 
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