Steering Wheel for Tiller Boat?

[LaqueRatt]

As some of you know I have a small alum fishing boat. An older 14' MirroCraft. With all the weight in the back when I'm running solo it doesn't like to plane at low speed. Was thinking if I was sitting further forward it would perform better for me.

Is it feasible to install a steering wheel and controls in it? Can I get these from a donor boat maybe? There is a dirt cheap glass boat with a nice motor, nice trailer, for sale near me. I know the boat would be a pain to dispose of, but it might be worth it to me if can put the wheel and controls in mine. Plus I like the motor and trailer. Is this a goofy idea or not? Surely somebody must have tried.

 

[matt167]

You can put stick steer or a side console on it easy. But you will need to find the steering cable or buy a new system

 

[JimS123]

I have had 2 tinnies just like yours. In fact I still have one of them.

I can only give you MHO based on real experience.

First of all, adding a wheel isn't feasible. Several reasons. You will need to add a side console and it will take up valuable space. Pus the necessary cables will encumber your comfort.

My little Sea Nymph has (had) a similar issue. I bought a longer fuel line and moved the tank amidships. I don't have a battery so that weight is not an issue.

When I bought a bigger motor and had that issue, I added a Doelfin and that solved the problem, plus added new benefits as well.

I never tried them, but 4 blade props provide stern lift.

Regardless, if planing problems occur with only 1 rider, I suspect it's more than weight distribution. You need to tach out the prop and get the right one.

Plus it goes without saying that the motor needs to be tilted all the way in.

 

[airshot]

Having bad shoulder issues, I find tiller steering to be quite uncomfortable, so I always choose a steering wheel. It is quite easy to make a small console to add a steering wheel to if your handy. You will need to stay small or you will loose to much floor space. You really should consider adjusting your load to get a good balance as you will need to do that whether you add a steering wheel or not. The real trick is to have the correct length of steering cable, to long or to short wont work. You might also consider making a center console to help with weight distribution. Anything is possible if your handy with tools and fabrication.

 

[zool]

For small money you can get a long tiller extension handle. That way you can get a feel if moving midship works for you. If it does, you can run that way, or explore a console solution. You can use this system when running solo, and remove it when you have someone up front. Just a thought......

 

[LaqueRatt]

I figured it would be a lot harder than it seems. So a donor boat isn't going to cut it is it? I didn't even consider cable length being a problem, but that makes perfect sense. I guess access cable can't be rolled up and zip-tied either. I don't get why it would be uncomfortable, but will take your word for it. Moving the tank forward sounds like a good idea, but it would be sort of in the way. I do take my grandson out with me sometimes and he only stays put when I make him. As for a console, I could probably fab one if I could dig up something to make it out of. Guess time to go steal a road sign or two.....LOL Nah, I'd never do that.....anymore. I do remember though when a stop sign skid plate was standard eqpt on our old slammer snowmobiles.

I'm curious about this Doelfin device. How does this work Jim? I assume it attaches to the lower unit? There are no props available for my old Fastwin so think I'm stuck with what I got.

 

[JimS123]

If you think the gas tank would be in your way, adding a console of any kind would be even worse.

Michigan wheel carries a complete line of Evinrude props for motors going way back to the 1950's. All different sizes available. Every boat should be tached out for the right prop. Planing problems are a clear givaway.

A Doelfin bolts on to the motor's AV plate. Best $39 you could ever spend. My last 14' tinny was a tiller and I carried a battery and gas tank right at the transom. The fin is what allowed me to do that. If you do a search you will find tons of people calling them bad names. That's because most try them but don't do it right. I've have had one on every boat since 1984.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Well Jim all good things come to an end, eh? Michigan had nothing for me. Neither did anyone else. One place, Greenbay Props, offered a replacement. When it came I found it would not work out of the box and I had to do considerable reworking to get it to spin without rubbing. So thinking your advise may be dated. Here's a thread I made detailing what had to do to make it work: https://forums.iboats.com/threads/fitting-solas-prop-to-65-fastwin-18.761734/#post-5812227

If I hadn't been able to make it go, this motor would have been toast as I spun the hub and nobody has made a replacement in many moons. Even if I found one I figured it would be old and brittle.

Sounds like the doel-fin is the best option. Any tips on doing it right? What is the problem with the console? Does it simply take up most of the width of the boat? I'm really not liking the tiller. Maybe it would make more sense to get a boat that already has a steering wheel.

 

[airshot]

In my younger days I added a makeshift steering console to an old tinnie, to make it more usefull, I designed it to store my two boat fuel tanks under it. Better weight balance and much easier acess when it came time to switch tanks. As far as my shoulder discomfort goes, I have torn rotator cuffs so holding my arm back behind me on a tiller handle for any length of time becomes quite painfull. Keeping my arms forward on a steering wheel is not an issue. Had many tillers in my younger days, but then adding a steering wheel was a status symbol, it meant you had a fancier boat !!! Nowadays the steering wheel is a necessity for physical conditions. Go with what you are most comfortable with, but the number one thing to understand is balance, having the weight in the proper places can make a hugh difference in how your small boat handles especially when it starts getting choppy!!!!

 

[JimS123]

Well Jim all good things come to an end, eh? Michigan had nothing for me. Neither did anyone else. One place, Greenbay Props, offered a replacement. When it came I found it would not work out of the box and I had to do considerable reworking to get it to spin without rubbing. So thinking your advise may be dated. Here's a thread I made detailing what had to do to make it work: https://forums.iboats.com/threads/fitting-solas-prop-to-65-fastwin-18.761734/#post-5812227

If I hadn't been able to make it go, this motor would have been toast as I spun the hub and nobody has made a replacement in many moons. Even if I found one I figured it would be old and brittle.

Sounds like the doel-fin is the best option. Any tips on doing it right? What is the problem with the console? Does it simply take up most of the width of the boat? I'm really not liking the tiller. Maybe it would make more sense to get a boat that already has a steering wheel.

No problem with a console, per se'. It's just that a little boat like that has limited space in the first place, and adding one would make moving around more cumbersome. My Sea Nymph is about the same size as yours and I'm quite sure I would't be happy adding more stuff. (just my opinion)

I don't have your data, so its hard for me to select a prop. All I did was go to Michigan's web site and I found a bunch of selections for old OMC motors. They used to print a catalog and with it you could dial a prop right in. The web site is not as easy to use. Tell me the model and year of your motor, the prop pitch and dia. and your WOT rpm data and I'll look up what you need. I'll get a part number and you can call them and see if they still make it. Personally, I wouldn't have a problem with a NOS prop. I currently run a 1952 Big Twin and a 1973 Fastwin and those props are as old as the motors.

My little tinnies saw a significant improvement with a fin right out of the box. For bigger boats with bigger motors optimum performance requires that the motor be raised. Adding one to my SeaRay reduced the prop slip from 15% to 8, increased the top speed by 3 mph, and cut my cruising speed fuel usage by 10%. ZERO bow rise on the hole shot. All the data came from VesselView, so it was not a guesstimate.

 

[JimS123]

Had nothing pressing this afternoon, so I googled. For an Evinrude 18 HP, 1957 - 1973, Michigan makes 9"+- 3-blade aluminum props in 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 pitches. A couple were limited production, but the others were original OEM replacements. I only looked up a couple, but several online prop stores had them, and of course all were in stock on Amazon.

 

[LaqueRatt]

I googled and contacted every prop source I could find. Even hit up a local place. They all told me I was out of luck. NONE of them had anything that would fit the Fastwin, except for the Japanese motor prop I have on there now. I'm pleased with how it performs, but have nothing to compare it to. Was a bit shocked that when I finally got the motor running well it IMMEDIATELY spun the hub. Very first day on the lake. Was so confused, because when I lifted the motor the prop was turning, the boat however was barely moving. Here's what I know about the original: Prop: p/n: 304684 (?) 9 ¼ x 11 18

 

[LaqueRatt]

Forgot to add I feel you pain airshot. I also have a messed up rotator cuff. I originally did it in my late 20s when I flipped my sled. Healed up well, but I re-injured it 4 or 5x. The last time was a year ago when I managed to slip on wet leaves on the stairs off the deck. I wrapped my bad arm clear around my head and it's not worth a crap anymore. I can barely raise it over my head now. I'll prob end up having some surgery done, but I have more pressing issues right now. Luckily it's my non-tiller arm, but it give me grief when docking the boat and maneuvering it onto the trailer. Gets sore real fast if the motor doesn't start right away. Sucks being old and decrepit.

 

[JimS123]

I googled and contacted every prop source I could find. Even hit up a local place. They all told me I was out of luck. NONE of them had anything that would fit the Fastwin, except for the Japanese motor prop I have on there now. I'm pleased with how it performs, but have nothing to compare it to. Was a bit shocked that when I finally got the motor running well it IMMEDIATELY spun the hub. Very first day on the lake. Was so confused, because when I lifted the motor the prop was turning, the boat however was barely moving. Here's what I know about the original: Prop: p/n: 304684 (?) 9 ¼ x 11 18

My library of catalogs shows a part number of 388088, or Michigan match 012013. I don't know why the numbers are different, but I suspect one superseded the other. All moot points. If you are happy with your modified solas, that's all that matters. The specs indicate that pitch is what you need. Your original comment about not planing was what lead to the thought that you are overpropped.

Hope it all works out for you.

(PS - yours is a pin drive. That pic is generic and does not match the item, but the description does. Michigan's catalog shows the correct pic)

Michigan Wheel Michigan Match Aluminum Boat Propeller #012013 for Evinrude 18 HP Outboard 1957 - 1973 - iboats.com

Fast shipping and huge savings on Michigan Wheel Michigan Match Aluminum Boat Propeller #012013 for Evinrude 18 HP Outboard 1957 - 1973

boatpropellers.iboats.com

 

[flashback]

Maybe you could rig up some cable steering, I built a small hydroplane and wire rope worked well. The throttle was easy but it didn't have a gear shift.

 

[LaqueRatt]

That prop looks like it may well be a winner, thanks for the link. I'll save it. Looks like it fits the same list of motors as the Green Bay prop. Wouldn't be surprised if it also needed a little tweaking.

Could probably rig up some cables, but think maybe this is just more work than it's worth. I see boats similar to mine with a...helm? Is that what you call where the wheel mounts? For not a whole lot of money. Think I'm going to try to find one to go take a look at. It's hard to imagine the wheel taking up a great deal of space, but seeing is believing. What about a small wheel? Too hard to turn?

 

[JimS123]

That prop looks like it may well be a winner, thanks for the link. I'll save it. Looks like it fits the same list of motors as the Green Bay prop. Wouldn't be surprised if it also needed a little tweaking.

Could probably rig up some cables, but think maybe this is just more work than it's worth. I see boats similar to mine with a...helm? Is that what you call where the wheel mounts? For not a whole lot of money. Think I'm going to try to find one to go take a look at. It's hard to imagine the wheel taking up a great deal of space, but seeing is believing. What about a small wheel? Too hard to turn?

Your motor is set up for cable and pulley steering. You could probably adapt some sort of bracket for the more modern single cable but it may not be easy.

Most cable / pully systems run down both sides of the boat, but they can be adapted to a single side for a side console. Regardless, you also need throttle and gear shift controls to be safe.

Parts for those old steering systems are hard to find. The throttle / shift box are completely not available, so a used one would be needed. There is a limited market for them, but old boat restorers are willing to pay almost anything. cables can be had, but the fittings for the motor are scarce as a hens teeth.

The first pic shows the a setup adapted to a tiller motor, and the second shows the throttle.

 

[jimmbo]

40+ years ago, we had a couple of the 14ft Deep Fisherman. They would often Porpoise when there was only one person on the boat. Moving the tanks as far forward, and keeping the anchor and other ballast to the Bow reduced it.

 

[airshot]

Your motor is set up for cable and pulley steering. You could probably adapt some sort of bracket for the more modern single cable but it may not be easy.

Most cable / pully systems run down both sides of the boat, but they can be adapted to a single side for a side console. Regardless, you also need throttle and gear shift controls to be safe.

Parts for those old steering systems are hard to find. The throttle / shift box are completely not available, so a used one would be needed. There is a limited market for them, but old boat restorers are willing to pay almost anything. cables can be had, but the fittings for the motor are scarce as a hens teeth.

The first pic shows the a setup adapted to a tiller motor, and the second shows the throttle.
View attachment 373780

View attachment 373781

Wow....these bring back memories....looks just like my old 15' Lyman, but mine had a 1956 30 hp johnson....great memories from back in the mid 60's, thanks for these pics!!

 

[airshot]

40+ years ago, we had a couple of the 14ft Deep Fisherman. They would often Porpoise when there was only one person on the boat. Moving the tanks as far forward, and keeping the anchor and other ballast to the Bow reduced it.
View attachment 373782

Had one of these in late 60's, with an 18 hp evinrude, great tinnie....I added extensions to middle tank seat to create a platform, under which I added the 6 gal fuel tabk on the back side and a battery on the front side and anchor up under front seat. No issues with just me in the boat, never even used a fin on the lower unit!!!