Starting new project 1973 Sea Ray 240 SRV

[sheboyganjohn]

I had a lot of sanding experience when I built the dory. Good thing I am working in the yard, the wind helps to carry away the dust, but still end up with piles everywhere.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

Got the rest of the floor and foam out up to the bulkhead to the cabin. Time to start grinding getting things ready for the transom and stringers. Ordered some supplies last night. Hope to be glassing something in by the end of next week, assuming the supplies show up in time. Since there was a joint in the stringers near the cabin I will do the work up to that point and then do the rest of the of the work.

All I know is that I will find a better way to do the fuel fill to the tank. It was foamed in and leaked somewhere. Foam was soaked with water and gas on the starboard side.

 

[kcassells]

Oh yea... back to where we left off. Grind out that crap, use soapy water, clean off with clear water, wash with bleach and then acetone. The mold will go away. Don't adhere
any new work to that mess or your hard work will be for nothing. The bonding won't be 100% and the mold will continue. If your boat is exposed to the outside during repairs like mine is unfortunately you have to do this often to prevent the molds coming back. I hope this note gets to you.

 

[kcassells]

Oh yea... back to where we left off. Grind out that crap, use soapy water, clean off with clear water, wash with bleach and then acetone. The mold will go away. Don't adhere
any new work to that mess or your hard work will be for nothing. The bonding won't be 100% and the mold will continue. If your boat is exposed to the outside during repairs like mine is unfortunately you have to do this often to prevent the molds coming back. I hope this note gets to you. Now I have to wait 13 seconds between posts.
OKIEDOKIE 12345678910111213 earwego

 

[kcassells]

Oh yea... back to where we left off. Grind out that crap, use soapy water, clean off with clear water, wash with bleach and then acetone. The mold will go away. Don't adhere
any new work to that mess or your hard work will be for nothing. The bonding won't be 100% and the mold will continue. If your boat is exposed to the outside during repairs like mine is unfortunately you have to do this often to prevent the molds coming back. I hope this note gets to you. Now I have to wait 13 seconds between posts.
OKIEDOKIE 12345678910111213 earwego....

 

[sheboyganjohn]

Kcassells I saw your post before the database crash. I plan on sanding with the ROS, cleaning it up and hitting it with some quat from work. It does not break down as fast as bleach and smells a whole lot better.

I will have to figure out what posts were lost and repost pictures. Hopefully they have finally stabilized this thing, it is starting to get rather annoying.

 

[kcassells]

Cool, so what is "quat"? Posting has become tedious, hope they get it right this time.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

Sorry for the slang, it is quaternary ammonium sanitizer. I cannot remember the exact trade name off the top of my head and Ecolabs website is useless unless you know exactly what you are looking for otherwise I would give you a link. We use it in foot foamers to sanitize footware going into product rooms.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

These next couple of posts are getting caught back up with what was lost with the upgrade issues.

Ground out the motor mounts.



But not grinding out the total engine bay, that is 1/2 to 3/4 " of glass.



Another view of the crappy glass in the transom.

 

[kcassells]

thanks got it. I'll check it out.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

Started pulling out the false floor and lower paneling in the cabin and found a spongy cracked glass floor underneath.



Cut the glass skin out and found a pile of mush and soaked foam.



Got it pulled out and cut out all the bad stringer material. Going to run the stringers in and join up with the good wood. Gutting the cabin is not in the budget or scope right now. I will finish the cabin back and will get into the cabin latter this year or next year.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

Was trying to fit the transom pattern in and found that the side shelves are in the way to put it in in one piece, so back to the cutting and grinding. Got the template made, cut it out of 2 pieces of ply and glued up with titebond II. My other hobby is woodworking, so I know the titebond will hold just fine, and I had a couple gallons laying around.



Menards also started carrying marine grade plywood by me, but I could not bring myself to pay an extra $30 a sheet when the ACX looked to have the same number of layers and very few and small voids. If I was building a hull, like in my Dory build, then it would be a different story.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

Slow day yesterday. Took the admiral on a drive in the convertible so not much boat time. Sanded the edges of the transom, test fitted it and traced the two keyholes for the drives. Also moved 2/3 of the canopy frame over the boat, could not fit the whole thing, the boat is too tall. Top is on covering from just in front of the windshield to three feet off the stern. Have a family birthday party today. May get some measurements done on the stringers, but admiral is exited about leaving early for the party so that may not happen.

 

[kcassells]

Gots to keep them girls Happy! or the jig is up!

 

[sheboyganjohn]

Got some measuring time in for the stringers and screwed up my lower back/hip. My hip has been a problem since turkey hunting and has been getting a lot better but today I thought I was not going to be able to stand up in the boat, let alone get out of it. I think I need to take a few days off from the boat. Raining now and suppose to continue on and off the next couple of days so a good time for a health break.

 

[kcassells]

Hey, take a break and get well! Sorry to hear. I know the feeling. When your ready you'll know. Hot baths, salt, beer.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

Thought it was better today until I carried the roll of fiberglass and pail of resin from the front door to the basement. And yes, plenty of beer, and ice (for me not the beer). Another good reason to take some days off, 20th anniversary on Wednesday. Need to make some good dinner plans for that night.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

Hip/leg still hurt but I have had enough of waiting around. I will start back up tomorrow. Looking at getting the transom clamps made and dry fitted. If all goes well I may try installing the transom tomorrow. I have training at work on Wed. and Thurs. so it will be Friday before I get back in it again.

Some random thoughts.

To save on foam usage I am going to make below floor storage on either side of the fuel tank. I will still put in foam at the hull with a sub floor in the storage. This should still give the structural element with some foam savings and the addition of storage for rods and skis.

I also am thinking of tapering the sides and top of the transom wood to reduce the amount of filling I need to make a good filet. I will keep it full thickness at the bottom of the hull. The structure is going to come tabbing into the sides and bottom of the hull not to the transom since the transom wood is full width. With the amount of completely dry fibers I found in the side joints, the taper method should still be stronger then what was there.

 

[kcassells]

Hip/leg still hurt but I have had enough of waiting around. I will start back up tomorrow. Looking at getting the transom clamps made and dry fitted. If all goes well I may try installing the transom tomorrow. I have training at work on Wed. and Thurs. so it will be Friday before I get back in it again.
Some random thoughts.
To save on foam usage I am going to make below floor storage on either side of the fuel tank. I will still put in foam at the hull with a sub floor in the storage. This should still give the structural element with some foam savings and the addition of storage for rods and skis.
I also am thinking of tapering the sides and top of the transom wood to reduce the amount of filling I need to make a good filet. I will keep it full thickness at the bottom of the hull. The structure is going to come tabbing into the sides and bottom of the hull not to the transom since the transom wood is full width. With the amount of completely dry fibers I found in the side joints, the taper method should still be stronger then what was there.

WOG has some great clamping ideas. Check it out. Also so does Frisco Boater with youtube. I'm not sure about what you mean in regards to tapering the top and sides of the transom? Are/is the new transom thicker than original at those points? If so then I suspect thats a good resolution.
On another note. If you keep aggravating your back etc. then you may end up worse for the wear. Be smart and get strong first. Also how was the Anniversary Date? Maybe that pulled out your back again...lol!

 

[sheboyganjohn]

Anniversary date went great. Went to one of the Kohler American Club restaurants.

I am going to clamp like Frisco did.

As for the tapering, the old transom went the full width of the boat with fill between the edge and the side of the hull and no tabbing that I could tell. Instead of filling in that 1.5" depth I plan on placing a 45 angle on the sides for 3/4" leaving 3/4" thickness and filling from there. The strength will come from tabbing into the sides and will reduce how much filter I am using and make it easier to get the filling all the way to the bottom. For the top I am going to taper 45 all the way down to make an easy transition to the top of the transom. When you look how the transom wood is installed in Frisco's videos for a 454 and I am running two 4 cylinders, there will be more then enough strength. I am 42" tall at the center of the transom and running the full 84" width with a double layer of 3/4" plywood. The bottom of the transom at the hull will have no taper, will just be filled in with a filet like Frisco did.