Starter won't turn over. New starter, new battery, fuel pump runs w/ key on 1999 Chaparral 2130 SS

[Ride365]

I'm at wit's end.
The engine was starting then immediately dying, then I figured out the safety lanyard was off the little clip.
I put it back on (after I had checked fuses & the only relay I could find - by the fuel pump), but now the starter won't turn over & no clicking, etc..
It bench tested good so I figured the solenoid went bad & bought a new starter (the solenoid is attached to the starter).
Same results now.
Key on, everything lights up.
Start position: the fuel pump runs but (brand new) starter doesn't turn or click.
Battery is fully charged.
Wiring appears correct.

 

[ESGWheel]

Just a quick reply to keep this going as I only have a couple of minutes.

Are all the battery connections (at battery and at starter and engine block) clean and tight?

Do you have a multimeter (MM) or 12VDC test light that you can use? If yes, you can see if you are getting 12VDC to the solenoid when turning the key to “start”. If no voltage there, then the troubleshooting needs to begin with the MM. If there is +12V, then suspect the starter (even though new) or a connection to the starter.

Also while not the current issue keeping you from boating, did you buy a marine starter that is SAE J1171 certified?

 

[alldodge]

Welcome
There are a couple things that will keep the motor from cranking. The neutral safety switch and the assist relay

Turn key to start and hold, while in start move shifter forward and reverse slightly. Don't move it enough so it goes into gear, just trying to find out if its neutral safety switch

Find the assist relay on the motor. It's a small square cube and will have yellow/red wires connected. Have someone turn key to start and measure voltages on smaller yel/red terminal

 

[Ride365]

Just a quick reply to keep this going as I only have a couple of minutes.

Are all the battery connections (at battery and at starter and engine block) clean and tight?

Do you have a multimeter (MM) or 12VDC test light that you can use? If yes, you can see if you are getting 12VDC to the solenoid when turning the key to “start”. If no voltage there, then the troubleshooting needs to begin with the MM. If there is +12V, then suspect the starter (even though new) or a connection to the starter.

Also while not the current issue keeping you from boating, did you buy a marine starter that is SAE J1171 certified?

Thanks for the reply
Yes, everything is clean and tight, and appropriate marine starter installed.
For the MM test, I should put the + on the main + terminal, correct (as in, not one of the 2 smaller wires)?

 

[Ride365]

Welcome
There are a couple things that will keep the motor from cranking. The neutral safety switch and the assist relay

Turn key to start and hold, while in start move shifter forward and reverse slightly. Don't move it enough so it goes into gear, just trying to find out if its neutral safety switch

Find the assist relay on the motor. It's a small square cube and will have yellow/red wires connected. Have someone turn key to start and measure voltages on smaller yel/red terminal

Thanks for your reply
I did the neutral safety switch test & no response from the starter (I was thinking/hoping that was it due to the kill switch bit I mentioned).
I'll look for the assist relay. I could only find one relay on the motor, though and it was mounted on top of the fuel pump. Anyone know where that might be on this boat (Chaparral 2130 SS)?

 

[alldodge]

Thanks for your reply
I did the neutral safety switch test & no response from the starter (I was thinking/hoping that was it due to the kill switch bit I mentioned).
I'll look for the assist relay. I could only find one relay on the motor, though and it was mounted on top of the fuel pump. Anyone know where that might be on this boat (Chaparral 2130 SS)?

The kill switch removes all power coming from the key If it was tripped then nothing at helm would work.

The boat means nothing when trying to fix the motor. Which motor do you have?

 

[Ride365]

The kill switch removes all power coming from the key If it was tripped then nothing would work.

The boat means nothing when trying to fix the motor. Which motor do you have?

Initially with the lanyard off/kill switch activated, the motor would fire and die immediately...the starter was engaging.

Volvo Penta GL5 with a Merc 5.7 base motor in it. I figured maybe different boats had certain electronics placed differently.

Thanks

 

[alldodge]

Unable to find a GL"5" but GL models usually have 2 relays next to each other

Follow the Yel/Red wire coming from the starter solenoid to the relay

 

[ESGWheel]

I was looking around for a wiring diagram for your 5.0GL and ran across this 2020 post (link) that has one along with some good troubleshooting for a starter issue. Take note that this may not reflect your engine, see the comments about GL A, B, etc. However, the starter and relay should be the same.
While I cannot find a picture of where the relay is located, here is a close-up of the ‘test’ I was referring to. Find the terminal with the smaller Yellow wire with the Red stripe (Y/R). And using a MM or a test light see if there is +12VDC at this point (or the test light ‘lights’) when the key is in the “start” position. If not then working your way ‘upstream’ to the relay is the next step. If does have +12VDC possible bad solenoid or starter. Either way from this point there are troubleshooting techniques some of which are outlined in the link from 2020.

Do this test and post results.

(still cannot post picture but hopefully explanation is enough)

 

[Ride365]

Unable to find a GL"5" but GL models usually have 2 relays next to each other

Follow the Yel/Red wire coming from the starter solenoid to the relay

Thanks for the tip. I was able to find the starter relay, and it was bad. Tried it with an automotive relay and fired right up!

And ya, not GL5 but 5.0 GL.

@ESGWheel thanks for all that!

Proper marine relay on order.

Oh, and I have a good used marine starter available for cheap ;-)

 

[alldodge]

Proper marine relay on order.

The marine relay is the same as the automotive one if it's the small plastic square one

 

[ESGWheel]

Glad it worked out!

And i too have used 'automotive' relays which are indeed the same as the 'marine' ones. Which now causes me to wonder about the SAE J1171 certification. I will have to add this to my explore activities revolving around J1171 > I get these relays are sealed but J1171 calls for testing that seal to be certified. Inquiring minds want to know. Well, that is for another post….

 

[alldodge]

And i too have used 'automotive' relays which are indeed the same as the 'marine' ones. Which now causes me to wonder about the SAE J1171 certification. I will have to add this to my explore activities revolving around J1171 > I get these relays are sealed but J1171 calls for testing that seal to be certified. Inquiring minds want to know. Well, that is for another post….

Not all auto relays are the same as marine. In this case only pertaining to the small square plastic relays "are" the same as marine. There are probably others "I" am only taking about this one type

 

[ESGWheel]

understood but it causes me to think if i ever saw one labled for J1171, never paid attention, but will now (i still have some of my original relays so have to look).

 

[Ride365]

By 'marine' I mean the one that has the cover on it so it makes use of the water seal.
3.99 + 4.68 shipping :-D

 

[ESGWheel]

Ah, I see what you mean, thanks for letting me know.
My pursuit of J1171 only started recently so I got the spec fm SAE. And it calls for parts that have passed the testing protocol to be marked with J1171 which I have not observed before on marine relays (not saying it’s not there, I just never looked). As mentioned, I’ll do another post on that.
Again, I am glad you got this resolved. Onto the next challenge!

 

[Mederios Limestone]

I'm at wit's end.
The engine was starting then immediately dying, then I figured out the safety lanyard was off the little clip.
I put it back on (after I had checked fuses & the only relay I could find - by the fuel pump), but now the starter won't turn over & no clicking, etc..
It bench tested good so I figured the solenoid went bad & bought a new starter (the solenoid is attached to the starter).
Same results now.
Key on, everything lights up.
Start position: the fuel pump runs but (brand new) starter doesn't turn or click.
Battery is fully charged.
Wiring appears correct.

Hey, I'm new to the forum so please excuse me if I don't go about this the proper way but here's a thought. My Volvo 4.3 gi (1995) has a couple of large circuit breakers on the starboard side of the motor. There's a large (50amp) breaker that comes straight from the battery and connects to the starter. This pops regularly on mine ( the reason I'm on here). You could try looking for that. There is a separate 12 amp fuel system breaker and in some cases the panel and gauges are individually fused. So all but the starter system could be getting power.
Hope this helps