Starcraft SS160 resto

crkranz

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
139
How original - a starcraft resto. Got a good deal on it off craigslist. It was by some little town in MN. The boat hasn't been used in at least 7 years. Last licenced in 2001. It has a 79 Johnson 70hp that supposedly ran when last used, we'll see. I plan on following the FAQ for awaking a sleeping outboard. The gas in the tanks was black muck, glad I didn't try and start it. The hull looks to be in good shape. The carpet and probably the floor has been replaced once already and the PO built a fishing deck in front and moved the gas tanks up there. I have read through most of the starcraft resto on this site, so I have a pretty good idea of what is ahead. I plan on replacing the floor, new paint and upholstery. I also plan on rebuilding the front deck into a hybrid fishing platform except 2 jump seats in front of windows (someone else did this, cant remember who).







 
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crkranz

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
139
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

Also picked this up on my way to get the boat. Consew 206rb!

 

850Merc

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Aug 16, 2012
Messages
333
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

Great looking boat you have there, :D you make it sound like a 16'SS is somehow cliche on here???? :deadhorse:
 

crkranz

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
139
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

Making progress. Got most of the interior out. I ran out of daylight before I could take pictures. I post some tomorrow.

Quick question - how much 635 epoxy will I need to give my floors and transom a couple of coats?
 

crkranz

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
139
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

The floors and transom are actually in very good shape. The perfectionist side of me wants to replace them anyway since I'm this far and they are old, but the practical side of me says this is going to be a lot of work that doesn't really need to be done at this time. What would you do?





Not sure what all these plates on the gunwales and bulkhead were for but there were 12 of them and were attached with ferrous bolts that did not want to come out. The PO must have installed a ski pylon through the bulkhead without bracing it. I'm trying to decide either to weld up the old one or have our fab shop bend up a new one.



 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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25,030
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

If you can lift the deck, intact, and clean it up, seal it, & re-lay it, great. But w/out taking the deck up, do you know the condition of the flotation foam below deck?

If you're taking up the deck, and need to remove the splashwell to address the cracking, I'd probably do the transom too. It won't ever be easier.

For reference, you're POSITIVE the deck isn't pressure treated that the PO installed, correct? The PT should definitely come out, and not be reused, the sooner the better.
 

crkranz

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
139
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

If you can lift the deck, intact, and clean it up, seal it, & re-lay it, great. But w/out taking the deck up, do you know the condition of the flotation foam below deck?

If you're taking up the deck, and need to remove the splashwell to address the cracking, I'd probably do the transom too. It won't ever be easier.

For reference, you're POSITIVE the deck isn't pressure treated that the PO installed, correct? The PT should definitely come out, and not be reused, the sooner the better.

I'm sure it isn't PT plywood. The foam under the floor looks pretty good judging by the spots it is accessible. The boat has been in a barn for the last 7+ years so it should be pretty dry by now. I'm torn because if the condition seems really good, but like you say, there will never be a better time to do it then now.
 
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crkranz

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
139
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

Built a quick stand for the motor and got it mounted. It hasn't been ran in a long time. Changed plugs, new gas tank/lines, oiled the cylinders. Tried to start it, the solenoid clicks but the starter doesn't engage. Can turn the flywheel by hand fairly easily. Checked and tightened all the connections, but the starter appears frozen. Tapped on it and nothing happens. Probably time to replace it anyway. I am getting a newer 90hp Merc to put on this boat, but would like to get this Johnson running.

 

jbcurt00

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Staff member
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Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,030
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

If you can find a place that re-works automotive starters & alternators, they can probably fix the starter.

I did get a new starter for a late 60's Merc 650 delivered for @$60. Which given the cost of most of the vintage parts & pieces for a Merc, it was a BARGAIN. Not sure a rebuild place would have been much cheaper, but......
 

crkranz

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
139
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

Anyone know where to get the rubber seal that goes around the bottom of the motor hood? Out of stock and discontinued everywhere I've checked.
 

crkranz

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
139
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

Decided to take the floor out since I'm this far. Glad I did, I found a stinky mess towards the front. A family of mice must have been living up there. There was a ton of old moldy seed stashed in the foam and nice big nest. Got it all cleaned up, need to replace a few rivits, but it looks good, no cracks or anything.





 

crkranz

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
139
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

Anyone have a preference for what brand and type of rivets to get? Need some for hull, floor and re-attaching the trim. I have a air riveter coming in the mail.
 

jasoutside

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2009
Messages
13,269
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

I have noticed the quality is much better with my rivets that come from my local bolt company. With most applications you can use the stuff that you can buy from your local Lowes/HD (Arrow).

For structural/hull, closed end blind pop rivets work best.
 

barato2

Commander
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Messages
2,956
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

lookin great so far, and glad to see the First Mate is helping at this stage....just think how proud he'll be to be able to brag to his buddies when it's done. plus 30 years of criminal defense practice has really hammered home how important it is for kids to develop healthy passions so the less healthy ones that tend to cause em to make my acquaintance don't slip into the vacuum.......even tho the kid will have MBS by the time he's 16........:D

starter drives rely on grease for lube, and old grease basically turns to rock over time. try taking starter apart and cleaning all the old grease out with WD40 or solvent, then replacing with new grease. you might not need to spend any $ on it after all.

yes, do the transom now. why would anyone go to the work to restore a boat and not replace THE SINGLE BIGGEST AND MOST CRITICAL STRUCTURAL MEMBER IN THEIR BOAT???? esp with the floor already out.
 
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barato2

Commander
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Messages
2,956
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

remember what i was saying about old grease? from another thread:

SO, I pulled the shift/throttle unit off, and it was full of pretty much tar (old grease). I oiled up the cables until they worked freely, and then took the Morse apart, cleaned completely, put fresh grease on the parts, and reassembled it. Here i what I believe a Morse should look like on the inside - - Enough grease to make it smooth, but not so much that it's everywhere, and can dry into the mess I started out with.
 

crkranz

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
139
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

Going to try and pull the transom out tonight. Any tips???
 

barato2

Commander
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Dec 7, 2010
Messages
2,956
Re: Starcraft SS160 resto

yeah. lever it out from below to get it started....you'll have to work it out a little bit at a time, alternating which side you pry on. have a bunch of scrap blocks ready to "wedge" it further up each time you pry. i found oak 1x2 to work well as levers but a huge prybar would work too. use a wood block under curve of prybar to avoid denting aluminum hull bottom if you use a prybar.

some folks have attached a come along or cherry picker to top of old wood to give a constant upward pull but that's not absolutely necessary.

have beers ready for the obligatory "Tarzan's steel tooth made short work of that anaconda" celebration when it comes out. yodeling and chest beating optional.
 
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