Starcraft Boats, why????

Nucknoilerfan

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Re: Starcraft Boats, why????

Some more advice needed here..........When I'm looking at one one these boats what do I need to look closely at to avoid big costly expenses?

I know that I'd like to avoid the usual rotten stringer, floor and transom. If the floor has been replaced, other than checking for a spongy floor, how would I know if the stringers are in decent shape? And the same question regarding a cover up job on a rotten transom.

I'll check the general condition of the hull for cracks, damage and any broken or missing rivets.

Are there other issues that you guys look closely at?
 

jasoutside

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Re: Starcraft Boats, why????

It's hard to go wrong in an alum boat.

The major things you are looking for very much depend on your budget. The more you are spending the higher your expectations ought to be.

So, what kind of budget are you working off of?

As for the alum hull itself, severe corrosion is a deal breaker. Cracks = proceed with major caution. Outside of that, most everything is fixable.
 

Pmccraney

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Re: Starcraft Boats, why????

Some more advice needed here..........When I'm looking at one one these boats what do I need to look closely at to avoid big costly expenses?

I know that I'd like to avoid the usual rotten stringer, floor and transom. If the floor has been replaced, other than checking for a spongy floor, how would I know if the stringers are in decent shape? And the same question regarding a cover up job on a rotten transom.

I'll check the general condition of the hull for cracks, damage and any broken or missing rivets.

Are there other issues that you guys look closely at?

Jas has you covered on the hull... Any major (large surface area) dents (collission-type trauma) is hard to fix... Once aluminum has a major flex in like that, the stretch is hard to fix... Look on the underside for gashes, welds and patches... These types of fixes are rarely done right and could indicate problems... (and make your job harder)...

Very few, if any, aluminum boats have wooden stringers (like older fiberglass boats); Most have lateral ribs and/or cross braces (made of aluminum).. Most do have wooden transoms which, depending on the age, are usually rotten... However, they are generally pretty easy to replace.. (provided the outside, aluminum transom skin is not severely corroded or stretched). Corrosion can occur if the transom wood is holding a lot of salt water or if the P.O. used pressure treated wood (it has chemicals in it that like to eat aluminum).
 

ezmobee

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Re: Starcraft Boats, why????

Yep, aluminum stringers. This is what they look like sans interior: http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/New Boat/DSCF2252.jpg

I wouldn't worry much about rotted decks and transoms as they're fairly easily replaced (certainly use the existence of these conditions for bargaining though!) Some newer boats have the wood transom core more "encapsulated" which can make replacement a real pain. Most of our boats just have some aluminum channel and some end caps along the top.
 

Nucknoilerfan

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Re: Starcraft Boats, why????

It's hard to go wrong in an alum boat.

The major things you are looking for very much depend on your budget. The more you are spending the higher your expectations ought to be.

So, what kind of budget are you working off of?

As for the alum hull itself, severe corrosion is a deal breaker. Cracks = proceed with major caution. Outside of that, most everything is fixable.

The Budget is probably around $4000-$5000. Where I live it looks like a decent boat is at least $5500 probably based on availability but if I travel 6 hours down the I-5 I may be able to find something in the $3500-$4000 range.
 

Nucknoilerfan

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Re: Starcraft Boats, why????

I'm fine with a future transom or floor replacement but fighting with mechanical issues out on the water with the family in the boat is a killer. Lets just say, "been there, done that". Dad gets cranky real fast, lol.
 

jasoutside

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Re: Starcraft Boats, why????

The Budget is probably around $4000-$5000. Where I live it looks like a decent boat is at least $5500 probably based on availability but if I travel 6 hours down the I-5 I may be able to find something in the $3500-$4000 range.

Yup, you should be able to find something water ready in that range. Meaning, good driveline that checks out, solid trailer with good tires/bearings, and all the wood in the boat should be in good shape. In that range you should expect some cosmetic issues, no doubt.

However, warning!

There are a ton of boats out there in that $3K to $6K price range that need a full on complete rebuild! They kinda look good on the surface, the seller may not know any better, the wood may just be a little spongy (tip of the ice burg), trailer might look a little rough, engine needs "carb job", and on, and on.

See, these kind of boats ^^^ basically need the same overhaul as one that has been sitting in the woods behind the shed for the past 10 years, and looks like a piece of garbage. Deck, transom, seats, electrical, fuel system, engine maint., trailer tires/bearings.....

The key is to sort out that $5K boat that is worth $5K. That $5K boat that needs all the work of a $1K boat is where you don't want to go.

Does that make some sense?
 

jasoutside

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Re: Starcraft Boats, why????

Here's an example from Craigslist down in Portland

1973 Starcraft 16 ft

Athough not the same boat, here is an example of what pricing is like locally in the Vancouver area. This one looks like a nice boat.

17' ALUMINUM BOAT WITH 85 HP YAMAHA

I think those are both pretty sweet, eh:thumb:

So long as the engines check out on both of those I tend to think that's good ballpark pricing.

For me, when it says "new floors" that doesn't mean a whole lot. Could be pressure treated ply for all we know (which means it all needs to come out).
 

ezmobee

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Re: Starcraft Boats, why????

The scenario that jas outlined is so true. Take, for example, the boat our friend BlueFin16 just bought http://forums.iboats.com/starcraft-boats/my-first-starcraft-1975-18-supersport-595947.html I could definitely see a boat like that being listed in the PNW area in spring time for $3-4k as it looks decent and is, for the most part, water ready. The reality is that it's exactly as jas pointed out: due for a full rebuild in the not-too-distant future. Fortunately, in BlueFin16's case, the seller was honest about everything and they were able to reach an agreeable price.

Those two boats you listed look pretty good (although the windshield on that Vancouver one is heinous).
 

GA_Boater

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Re: Starcraft Boats, why????

Some more advice needed here..........When I'm looking at one one these boats what do I need to look closely at to avoid big costly expenses?

Corrosion is the deal breaker depending on severity. Look through the resto threads of InMotions Jupiter and North Beachs Mariner for two examples of what you don't want to see. Many of the other restos have had minor corrosion dealt with.


I know that I'd like to avoid the usual rotten stringer, floor and transom. If the floor has been replaced, other than checking for a spongy floor, how would I know if the stringers are in decent shape? And the same question regarding a cover up job on a rotten transom.

Have you been burned with a glasser? Or you read the the glass resto threads. tsk, tsk. Pressure treated wood is bad news in an aluminum boat. The stringers are always in decent shape - they're aluminum. You can't cover up a rotted transom in a tin Starcraft. If the deck and/or transom needs replaced It's really your choice how much you spend. I replaced my deck and flotation for about $200, someone else might have spent 2, three times and even more. It depends on your level of satisfaction and your personal goal.


I'll check the general condition of the hull for cracks, damage and any broken or missing rivets.

Except for the rivets, you would do exactly the same on a glasser.

Are there other issues that you guys look closely at?

A few posts ago you were talking about river running and quickly changing depths to as low as three feet. Tin or glass really doesn't enter into this. Smacking the bottom with your lower unit is smacking the bottom with your lower unit. The hull material is insignificant. And that's why you need to slow down and exhibit great care in slim waters. In the same post beaching was mentioned. I boat on mountain lakes with some sandy shorelines and mainly rocky shore lines. The only real care I take is #1, slow and #2, try not to hit the big rocks. I have paint scratches and minor dings because I always beach slowly. No leaks and no worries. And I do beach a lot.

If you want a tinny, just find what you like and buy it as long as it fits you budget and needs. If it need fixing, we can help. If it doesn't need fixing, go get a couple of lottery tickets because you're one lucky guy. A lot of what I've said is what most the others have said.



The Budget is probably around $4000-$5000. Where I live it looks like a decent boat is at least $5500 probably based on availability but if I travel 6 hours down the I-5 I may be able to find something in the $3500-$4000 range.

You live in the wrong place for SCs. West Coast seems to have jacked up prices. BTW - four guys fishing in a Jupiter is going to be dicey. I wouldn't want to have four of us flinging hooks in my 16 footer which is almost the same as a Jupiter. An 18' Holiday would be a little better. I think your best choice would be an 18' Super Sport. The open bow adds a lot of fishing area.

For 5 grand you might even look at some newer boats like the Super Fisherman. IDK prices in your area for those. I hope all of this yammering makes some sense. Good luck on the search.
 

jasoutside

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Re: Starcraft Boats, why????

BTW - four guys fishing in a Jupiter is going to be dicey. I wouldn't want to have four of us flinging hooks in my 16 footer which is almost the same as a Jupiter.

Yup ^^^^.

I'm still thinkin...

Based on what you just mentioned I'd be thinking Holiday or the short version of the Islander/Chieftain (18 footer range). Alum boats draft shallow so water depth isn't a big issue like it is with the glasser.

16 footer seems small for running downriggers, in open water, with four guys. Go bigger, you'll be glad ya did:thumb:
 

Nucknoilerfan

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Messages
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Re: Starcraft Boats, why????

A few posts ago you were talking about river running and quickly changing depths to as low as three feet. Tin or glass really doesn't enter into this. Smacking the bottom with your lower unit is smacking the bottom with your lower unit. The hull material is insignificant. And that's why you need to slow down and exhibit great care in slim waters. In the same post beaching was mentioned. I boat on mountain lakes with some sandy shorelines and mainly rocky shore lines. The only real care I take is #1, slow and #2, try not to hit the big rocks. I have paint scratches and minor dings because I always beach slowly. No leaks and no worries. And I do beach a lot.

If you want a tinny, just find what you like and buy it as long as it fits you budget and needs. If it need fixing, we can help. If it doesn't need fixing, go get a couple of lottery tickets because you're one lucky guy. A lot of what I've said is what most the others have said.





You live in the wrong place for SCs. West Coast seems to have jacked up prices. BTW - four guys fishing in a Jupiter is going to be dicey. I wouldn't want to have four of us flinging hooks in my 16 footer which is almost the same as a Jupiter. An 18' Holiday would be a little better. I think your best choice would be an 18' Super Sport. The open bow adds a lot of fishing area.

For 5 grand you might even look at some newer boats like the Super Fisherman. IDK prices in your area for those. I hope all of this yammering makes some sense. Good luck on the search.


I think that your "Bang On" in regards to a 18' Super Sport being the ideal size and layout for my needs. I had a quick look at BlueFin16's purchase and it seems about right. I like the walk through open bow for dropping anchor safely. On the river the boat will be mostly a transport vehicle but on the lakes it'll be used for trolling.

I realize the risks of running a river with a prop boat and potential damage to the lower unit from contact with the bottom. Caution is always the best prevention. And I'm ok with scratches on the bottom of my hull when beaching but there is forgiveness in aluminum hulls and no forgiveness in fiberglass. My fiberglass Campion which has never seen the river will be hitting Craigslist soon and the serious boat shopping will follow.
 
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