Stalling at Idle and Idle Speed

[Scode68]

OP said fuel pump was "tested... by EV mechanic". symptom still indicates possible bad pump if " hand pumping" steadies the engine !

Yeah, it was tested by the marina mechanic where I keep the boat and I pulled it so I could bring it up the creek to Evinrude guy. The Evinrude guy has a great reputation and when he said the fuel pump was tested to be fine I believe him. That's not to say that in a month that it couldn't have gone bad.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Yeah, it was tested by the marina mechanic where I keep the boat and I pulled it so I could bring it up the creek to Evinrude guy. The Evinrude guy has a great reputation and when he said the fuel pump was tested to be fine I believe him. That's not to say that in a month that it couldn't have gone bad.

Post 11 does not say fuel pump was changed out. If pumping the primer ball cures the problem, then that is the standard repair. Pump diaphragm can tear at any time.

Every fuel tank that I have ever been in has a pickup screen and when I run spin on fuel filters I have removed the screens before because they clog at high speeds. I always figured since I have a high quality filter like a Racor then the screen is unnecessary.

 

[Scode68]

Post 11 does not say fuel pump was changed out. If pumping the primer ball cures the problem, then that is the standard repair. Pump diaphragm can tear at any time.

Every fuel tank that I have ever been in has a pickup screen and when I run spin on fuel filters I have removed the screens before because they clog at high speeds. I always figured since I have a high quality filter like a Racor then the screen is unnecessary.

No but 88 refereed to posts 3 & 4 where it said to change out the bulb. And it was mentioned in post #11 that it was done with no change. Fuel pump is $600 so I just didn't want to change that out just for trying.

I was thinking of pulling the tube this off season cause nobody could give me an answer on the screen.

 

[racerone]

The VRO gasoline / oil mixing pump looks and sounds complicated.----It is a simple device.----Take it apart for inspection !

 

[Crosbyman]

not certain but I think VRO can be serviced check utubes... check pulse line

 

[Scode68]

I think it’s just a matter of getting a good kit. Lots of Chinese kits on Amazon.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Check your pulse fitting, if it's black replace it with a new blue one.

According to some on here, the fuel pump diaphragm can be replaced inexpensively.

Be careful taking the vro apart....small plastic pieces can break.

 

[Scode68]

Check your pulse fitting, if it's black replace it with a new blue one.

According to some on here, the fuel pump diaphragm can be replaced inexpensively.

Be careful taking the vro apart....small plastic pieces can break.

I'm trying to do as much BPR parts as I can but some things are just not out there. I've seen kits on Amazone with a wide range in pricing but I think the difference is just the person selling the kits. I'll have to look at the pulse fitting.

 

[racerone]

The pulse limiter fitting is a ----" flow fuse "----for the VRO housings.------Keeps the pump from becoming a small bomb should there be high airflow / pressure spike from the crankcase.

 

[cyclops222]

Engine fuel pump ?

 

[Scode68]

Just following up,

Hooked up the portable tank upstream from the primer bulb so I would have 2 in there. Both bulbs got soft but did not empty and I ran the boat at idle for 45 minutes without so much as a hick-up.

Issue has to be the tank pickup tube and probably gunk in the tank clogging the mesh. I'm checking into fuel polishing and replacing the pickup tube. There is no anti-siphon valve but there is a shutoff valve at the pickup. again, there are no bubbles in the fuel.

 

[Crosbyman]

Sounds like you found the problem thanks for the feedback

 

[saltchuckmatt]

I know this sounds laborious but I would change out the tank.

 

[Scode68]

I know this sounds laborious but I would change out the tank.

There is no panel to remove to take the tank out and I would have to cut a flat deck and hope I'm cutting where it has to be cut. Not to mention that it will look like total crap when glued and filled back in.

I'm realty hoping that there is a screen on the end of the pick up tube or I'm back to square one

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Here's your two choices and I've done both. Figure out the tank dimensions, carefully cut it out, change the tank, re-install the cut piece of deck after sealing all of the edges and have a stainless steel beauty ring made and glue (marine 5200) and screw it down (stainless screws).

If not, pull the gauge sending unit/pickup tube out, suck out the tank, pull the screen, re-install and put in a nice spin on (Racore) fuel filter.... preferably a water separating filter.

Then go pray your tank doesn't get pin holes.

Is your tank aluminum?

 

[Scode68]

It’s a poly Moller tank.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Okay....your probably good then.

 

[airshot]

Yep...cheapest and easiest is to suck out and flush your tank then add a good filter before the motor. I always start with the more obvious, cheaper, quicker methods of trouble shooting to try and solve a problem...having a clean tank and fresh fuel is always a good place to start.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Had a 20 ft Boston Whaler Revenge once....former owner let it sit for about 3 or 4 years and wasn't a guy that did much maintenance anyways.

Took it out and for several trips it ran fine. Next trip not so much. Mess with the engine for a while than decided to hand pump out about 30 gallons of gas. Near the end I was pulling out clear looking 20 inch goomy worms.... Yikes

Pulled the deck looking at a foamed in pos alum tank.

Felt way better after I put a new tank in the correct way. I guess the BW people screw up too (over rated)