spring vapor lock?

[ShoalSurvivor]

If you are talking about locally sourcing a carb 1406 is the edlebrock automotive carb not rated for marine use you need a 1409 which is the marine version.

I wound up purchasing a Carter AFB-4.3L-Marine-Electric Remanufactured 4 Barrel 4.3L Marine Carburetor - Electric Choke, Carter-AFB.

It's virtually identical to the one I'm removing except that it has a shiny pewter like finish instead of the painted (sealed?) version. It also has a fuel return port, which the original lacked.

I was assured that this is a marine model because it lacks vacuum ports.

I'd appreciate if someone can verify.
Thanks!

 

[Scott06]

the fuel overflow (return) line you mention - is the 1/4" tube sticking up slightly out of the airhorn means it is a marine carb. No street carbs had those

Right next to black choke element on front right mounting ear/foot should be some stamped numbers denoting carb number - what are those ?

It has the weber cast 'W' into cast into so I assume it was a weber or edlebrock carb originally

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

Right next to black choke element on front right mounting ear/foot should be some stamped numbers denoting carb number - what are those ?

It has the weber cast 'W' into cast into so I assume it was a weber or edlebrock carb originally

this is on the back

the original appears to have been removed



"289" and "281" imprinted on the throttle valves underneath

 

[Scott06]

if it has the overflow its a marine carb

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

if it has the overflow its a marine carb

excellent - thanks.
Do I need to connect the overflow to something?

 

[Bondo]

excellent - thanks.
Do I need to connect the overflow to something?

Ayuh,..... Wise choice, a great carb,.....

If you have a mechanical fuel pump, there should be a tygon fuel hose from the pump vent, that goes to that nipple,.....

If you have an electric fuel pump, grab a vacuum line cap, from an auto parts store, to cap the nipple,....

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

It's in and working fine. Fired up immediately.

Thank you for the evolving assistance. You good people enable me to own and maintain a boat, which I probably couldn't afford otherwise.

Conclusion: storage mistake leads to corroded components.
cleaned and reset exhaust manifolds, replaced coil, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and carb, water pump service.
Back in business!

Now for some cleaning.

 

[ShoalSurvivor]

It's in and working fine. Fired up immediately.

It's not working fine, and I don't know if I should start a new thread ???

My new reman carb fired up great yesterday, ran 10 min. low idle at first, but then fine after warming up (it's been that way for a long time).

Today, I tested it again. fired up, but the idle was lower (350ish), and almost stalling. I decided to research adjustment, even though this was supposedly bench tested and adjusted.
When I starter it up again, the idle was suddenly higher (750), so I decided not to adjust it.

got to the water. Started it up, low idle again, then it stalled. I restarted it and it fired up for a little bit with throttle, then stalled again. I tried a few more times - wouldnt start.

Then.... the started began making a high pitch whine without engaging the engine.
View attachment IMG_6352.MOV

Questions:
1) Did my starter just die? (I have good electrical, and I'll troubleshoot with the "HOW TO: Troubleshooting your engines starting system" tomorrow, but I'm just wondering if this a common sign of starter failure or something else..

2) What is the proper way to start this engine, and restart?
I was told to pump the throttle four times, then start it with medium throttle, and back off as soon as it starts. That has always worked, but I want to understand what is happening.

Is that just when cold or hasn't been run in a while? what about if it stalls and I have to restart? Pump again or is that just flooding it?

I"m trying to see if I can get this running tomorrow because we have guests in town who want to wakeboard!
Thanks!