Spark plug recommendations for 1973 evinrude 65 triumph.

TyeCope

Cadet
Joined
Jun 6, 2022
Messages
17
Your starter is still struggling and your partner was playing with the connection. If you don't use all good stuff your going to ruin your starter. Also, don't get ahead of yourself, fix things before you run it.....like the water pump impeller and don't run it without water.

Here is the red plug wire diagram. Run a wire from where it's says kill through a switch and to a motor ground.

Looks like she has some life.
Thank you for the reply. I am going to check and see the water pumps strength but it will probably be good to just change the impeller no matter what. and I will improve the battery wire system and get some better connections. Also is there any certain gauge of what wire I could use for the battery cables? I have some old jumper cables with bad clamps but good wire, would that work? if I were to get new wire what gauge do I need?
 

saltchuckmatt

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2019
Messages
1,816
Thank you for the reply. I am going to check and see the water pumps strength but it will probably be good to just change the impeller no matter what. and I will improve the battery wire system and get some better connections. Also is there any certain gauge of what wire I could use for the battery cables? I have some old jumper cables with bad clamps but good wire, would that work? if I were to get new wire what gauge do I need?
Depends on length but 4 gauge should work.....also, no jumper cables aren't marine grade. You need marine grade on a boat or they will corrode very quickly. Marine grade wire is copper that has been tinned silver.

It holds up better.
 

McGR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 19, 2004
Messages
654
Just be careful with the Black/Yellow kill wire circuit. There's high voltage there when the motor is running or cranking. Don't touch any exposed conductors in that circuit until the motor has stopped cranking or running.
 

TyeCope

Cadet
Joined
Jun 6, 2022
Messages
17
Depends on length but 4 gauge should work.....also, no jumper cables aren't marine grade. You need marine grade on a boat or they will corrode very quickly. Marine grade wire is copper that has been tinned silver.

It holds up better.
Thanks!
 

TyeCope

Cadet
Joined
Jun 6, 2022
Messages
17
Just be careful with the Black/Yellow kill wire circuit. There's high voltage there when the motor is running or cranking. Don't touch any exposed conductors in that circuit until the motor has stopped cranking or running.
where is the black/yellow kill wire circuit?
 

McGR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 19, 2004
Messages
654
The black/yellow wire goes from the powerpack (CD ignition module) to the big red plug.
 

Attachments

  • Capture.JPG
    Capture.JPG
    64.3 KB · Views: 5

TyeCope

Cadet
Joined
Jun 6, 2022
Messages
17
I showed it to you on your red plug. Did you tap on the picture?
I did see the picture. so am I good to connect a kill switch to the yellow and black wire and then ground it to the engine? or can I not do that? I just need to know where to connect a kill switch so kill the engine after I start it.
 

saltchuckmatt

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2019
Messages
1,816
I did see the picture. so am I good to connect a kill switch to the yellow and black wire and then ground it to the engine? or can I not do that? I just need to know where to connect a kill switch so kill the engine after I start it.
The switch would just go between the two connections.

This is just for working on it until you get a remote box.
 

McGR

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 19, 2004
Messages
654
No fuse is needed. You don't necessarily need a switch either. You could just touch a wire end to the block (B- /ground) to kill the motor. A switch is OK too... either way.
 

RBoyd1971

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 20, 2020
Messages
165
The first thing you needed to do is oil the cylinders. The second is clean all the of those carbs and be sure all the jets are wide open. Then since it was locked up mix your fuel 40:1. 3rd Take the starter apart and blow all the old carbon from the brushes out, polish the armature with some emery cloth, then lightly oil the shaft and bushings. If the brushes weren't wore out, it'll spin effortlessly and fast. After that, pull the gear case and have a look at the impeller. If it's crumbling replace it before you crank it or those fins will break off and go into the power head. Finally, crank it on a hose and don't over rev it until it's had a chance to run at idle a bit to get all the rod and crank bearings lubed. You also need to fix the positive wire from the solenoid to the starter or in the very least insulate it or you may arc up when you engage the solenoid.

On another note, what is all that black peeling stuff on the head and under the flywheel. Is that scorched paint? If so, it has been severely overheated. Hope not. Hopefully it's just a bad home done paint job. Those are good motors if treated right.
 
Last edited:

RBoyd1971

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 20, 2020
Messages
165
I aquired one recently that is mint looking I gave 200 for. It had 100 lbs on the middle cylinder and 115 on the other two. I soaked it for a couple of days with marvel mystery oil then ran after cleaning all the carbs. All cylinders had over 120 afterwards. The guy I got it from said he was tired of fooling with and it wouldn't idle. He replaced plugs, ignition components etc and what I found was all 3 carbs were full of water. I'm sure the next motor he got received the same treatment, lol. Use a length of hose and sophon your tank ever so often. I say all this to educate you. You have to take steps to start these old motors that have been sitting up or you risk causing damage that doesn't make since financially to try and fix cause it's expensive. Plugged carbs cause scored and galded cylinders.
 
Top