So, what did you do today?

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
Worked on my new canopy for my pickup.
3 requirements.
1. must be able to sleep across the front of the canopy.
2. must fit in my garage with an 8' high door.
3. must be able to still haul sheets of plywood without removing things.
That would require me to either have a custom canopy built or build it myself. I chose the latter.

Now I'm focusing on the skin. There is a small over cab section and rounded corners to make it more difficult. I still haven't fully decided how to secure the foam insulation inside. I plan to use 2 layers of 1" foam with the second layer held on by screws through the plastic paneling.

Here are some pictures of the aluminum framework.
Are you skilled at the skins? I've watched Ron Covells you tube channel a bit and got some helpful tips there.
 

StarTed

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 14, 2015
Messages
694
Are you skilled at the skins? I've watched Ron Covells you tube channel a bit and got some helpful tips there.
I'm definitely not skilled at much of anything. I mostly learn by doing and seeking information from any sources I can find. I'm learning TIG welding on aluminum. I make all kinds of things I think I need.
That said, I'll check into Ron Covillis's you tube information.
The aluminum skins I picked up are 20 gauge that have some water stains but were priced right. $50 for a 4 X 12 sheet. They will be pop riveted on to the framework with 3m 5200 sealing them. I'm going to try some white vinegar before I resort to a SS wire brush. The inside is already wire brushed and a little scratched but will be covered with foam insulation glued and screwed down. I'm planning 2 layers of 1" XPS foam. The first layer will be fit around the structure while the second layer will span everything and be glued to the layer beneath and screwed into the framework under that. The inside will be covered with 1/8" waterproof plastic that will be glued to the insulation and under the screws.
I'll post more pictures in stages as I progress.
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
So is tounge oil durable/repairable? I gave to redo my oak flooring and want something that won't chip or wear as easily.
This is the waterlox system. Been around since 1910. I am using the UTOS and h2olox products.

The beauty of this is when its time to refinish you don't have to do the whole floor. Just the high traffic areas. Basically, you wait till your going on vacation. Deep clean area with their cleaner. Spread new finish on area as you walk out the door. Week later its cured. 3 months late it matches. Supposedly anyways. That was the reason I chose this product. That and they are family owned in the US.
 

cptbill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 6, 2012
Messages
762
Went to the Verizon store today for new phones. What an ordeal, 26 years with verizon mobile phones and I realized again why we keep or phones for so long and after keeping the same unlimited plan and getting loyalty rewards and $600 in special pricing we managed to escape with only paying$625. Now I need to go see one of our granddaughters to show me all the things it will do
 

MRS

Commander
Joined
Jul 10, 2005
Messages
2,560
Man I feel for you last time went in was there for over and hour hate it.
This time when it was time to upgrade did it on line and had phones mailed.
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
Well. Put the 2nd coat of tung oil on. Ill let it dry for a day or two until I can feel my elbow. Running the buffer took more than I remember. I was forcing it to get the buff driven in.

1st of two coats of h2olox finish will go on Monday night or Tuesday. 24 hours apart. Then wait a week and paint and do trim and new doors and beadboard wainscoting and chair rail. By the time I get done with all that it should be time to open the boat shop for the season. Wonder what ill do with all my spare time? This should make a dent in the honey do list but I fear its just a start.
 

cptbill

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 6, 2012
Messages
762
Man I feel for you last time went in was there for over and hour hate it.
This time when it was time to upgrade did it on line and had phones mailed.
Gonna try that next time if we don't just keep these phones forever
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
Well, the floors came out awesome. Cant get pics to work. I have new doors and all the supplies for new trim on order. Gonna do poplar trim and bead board with a chair rail top cap kinda style about 42 inches high. Doors will be solid. Gonna paint the trim and the bead board trim white. Whatever color that is, not my department. The doors will be stained dark walnut.20210314_154934.jpg
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
Opened the shop back up, this early spring is throwing a wrench in things. Airgas loves me, beenngoing through a tank of argon a day. The welding side of the shop has taken off for some reason. All I do is aluminum, didn't realize there was that much call for it. A lot of folks bring all sorts of steel by and I turn most of it down. Ill do a snowplow or blower repair but just not interested in railings and stairs. My fork lift is only good to 4000lbs anyways so I am limited.
 

LundAngler1650

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 14, 2021
Messages
85
Put another coat of stain on the cabinet I built a while ago, only took me a year to finish what was going to be a 10 day project.
 

Mcfltfyter

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 9, 2021
Messages
119
Opened the shop back up, this early spring is throwing a wrench in things. Airgas loves me, beenngoing through a tank of argon a day. The welding side of the shop has taken off for some reason. All I do is aluminum, didn't realize there was that much call for it. A lot of folks bring all sorts of steel by and I turn most of it down. Ill do a snowplow or blower repair but just not interested in railings and stairs. My fork lift is only good to 4000lbs anyways so I am limited.
What's the price of a dewar vs compressed? You must be past the point of needing a dewar, no?
 

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Messages
10,925
on the floor, A)nice work and B)Odies Oil that I used on my table was also highly recommended for flooring. Same re-finishing concept as well and purportedly is soaks into the woodgrain rather than sitting on top like a poly would.

I dragged the Carver to get the new (old) sterndrive put on. I found a guy that had a fairly large shop up the road in Mufreesboro who a couple years ago sold it, moved home to the family farm sold all of that but a few acres that he built a new home and a large shop. He said he did about 500 work orders a year before now does 50 or so. Its his old guy trying not to be bored gig. I think I might have finally found 'the guy' I can trust.
 

LundAngler1650

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 14, 2021
Messages
85
on the floor, A)nice work and B)Odies Oil that I used on my table was also highly recommended for flooring. Same re-finishing concept as well and purportedly is soaks into the woodgrain rather than sitting on top like a poly would.

I dragged the Carver to get the new (old) sterndrive put on. I found a guy that had a fairly large shop up the road in Mufreesboro who a couple years ago sold it, moved home to the family farm sold all of that but a few acres that he built a new home and a large shop. He said he did about 500 work orders a year before now does 50 or so. Its his old guy trying not to be bored gig. I think I might have finally found 'the guy' I can trust.

In the middle of building another shop myself, nothing huge or fancy, just another 36'x48'.
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
Well, for several years wild blackberries have been encroaching on the shop. They are a waist high crop of prickly, very prickly somewhat vine like growth that gets I believe blackberries. It's a couple acres worth of growth now. They expanded exponentially the last two seasons.

They HAVE to go. How do I do it? I don't care if what ever field grass is there gets dead in the process.

I have been considering rock salt. It's a hundred yards from the well. I dont really want to use round up.

I suppose I could get my buddies ancient 310 crawler loader and just dig the area up but that's a ton of work and very destructive. It also grows right up to the building, that may be an issue with the mechanical method.

Any other suggestions?
 
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