Small Fiberglass Boat Restoration

[RazorbackBoater]

So guys, I finally have an update on my project boat. After demolition of the inside, I found several cracks that had me worried. This boat was on the ground in a pasture for 30 years and probably had cows and sheep step in it several times. Also, the sea foam green gel coat had tons of cracking and chips, so I made the decision to grind it down to pretty glass and start over.


I started grinding today. After a long, hot day of grinding, I have a clean hull bottom to inspect for any issues. It looks like I have four large holes to repair and a few blistered areas that I ground out that I will need to fill.

My plan is to finish removing the gel coat on the sides, repair the hull, use Adtech 14 filler, sand it smooth, and then apply white gel coat to the bottom.

I know I have created a lot of work and expense with grinding off the gel coat, but I want it to be perfect.

 

[RazorbackBoater]

Well I finally started work on patching the big holes in this little boat this weekend. I have patched the holes in the bottom of the hull. I am pretty happy with how it turned out for my first fiberglass work. On the inside of the boat, I plan to put a layer of 1708 to strengthen and thicken the hull. Can I do just one layer of 1708 or will I need to do CSM as well? It will all be covered so I am not too concerned about appearance.

I am now turning my attention to the transom. The original transom is partially covered by the cap. Is there a good way to cut this transom out without removing the cap? And once I get it out, can I ever get a new transom in without removing the cap? If not I will drill the rivets and remove the cap. On a boat this small it wont be too tough of a job.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

One layer of 1708 is good. Adding a second layer of CSM won’t really accomplish much.

I think your best bet is to remove the cap.

 

[RazorbackBoater]

Today I finished grinding the entire inside of the hull on this little boat and removed the last of the transom wood. I can finally start seeing the light at the end of the tunnel on this little project!

I ordered 1708 from US Composites and 5 gallons of polyester resin. My plan is to put down at least one layer of 1708 on the inside of the hull to thicken the hull. After I finished grinding, the hull is incredibly thin.

I also plan to replace the transom with two pieces of 3/4” treated ground contact plywood glued together.

I will upload more pictures as I start putting it together! Wish me luck!

 

[jbcurt00]

I also plan to replace the transom with two pieces of 3/4” treated ground contact plywood glued together

I wouldnt use treated, unless iits specified as KILN DRIED AFTER treatment, It'd have a KDAT stamp on it

 

[RazorbackBoater]

I wouldnt use treated, unless iits specified as KILN DRIED AFTER treatment, It'd have a KDAT stamp on it

Is there a reason to avoid using treated plywood in boats? I was going to use it in the floor too.

 

[jbcurt00]

Typical treated ply is damp/wet/heavy and often warps into a potato chip shape as it dries in your garage...

Some also suggest treatment chemically impede the penetration/adhesion of polyester resin to the treated ply.

It often has poor quality plys between the 2 faces and once cut did you intend to re-treat edges before encapaulation w poly resin and glass?

Just doesnt make much sense to use it when your boat wasnt built w it. Your boat was mistreated or neglected and succumbed to the elements, not a failure of its construction.

This link details what to do in post #623
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...80#post5550980

 

[JASinIL2006]

I agree... treated wood is asking for trouble, especially if certain metals come in contact with the wood. A good exterior plywood, properly encased in glass and resin, will last longer than you, if properly cared for.

 

[RazorbackBoater]

So, a guy in my area has 50 yards of 18 oz or 24 oz woven roving that is 40” wide for $60. Is there any reason for me to avoid using woven roving for encapsulating the floor plywood and/or transom before I install it with 1708? I have enough 1708, but I may save most of it for use in my ranger project if the woven roving will work. I am using polyester resin. Any guidance would be great!

 

[sphelps]

You can use the woven but you must use csm mat with it at the same time ...csm first then the woven on top wet on wet application

 

[jbcurt00]

Heavy woven requires even more resin to be wetted fully, thus more weight in both fabric and resin, plus the extra resin it'll take may result in no or negative cost 'savings'. Plus the CSM to properly adhere the woven to the plywood.....

Oh, and some members have gotten cheap leftover fabric/CSM from someone only to find its less then ideal. Some of it had gotten wet and wouldnt wet out properly. Again, resulting in no cost savings and negative time "savings" when the failed application was ground off.

I'm all for savings if/where you can, just know it might cost you more in the long run.

 

[RazorbackBoater]

So today I got back to work on the small boat. I patched a few spots with csm and 1708 and then put a layer of 1708 across the entire bottom of the inside of the hull. I am using polyester laminating resin from US Composites.

This is my first time really working any significant amount of fiberglass, so it took me longer than I wanted it to. Do you all see anywhere that I am messing up badly on this rebuild? Any advice is always welcome!

Later this week I will cut my transom wood and stringer and start coating them in resin and fiberglass. What is the best way to cut a template for a transom? Is the pink foam board method the best?

 

[mickyryan]

lookin gooD so far , more pics !

 

[RazorbackBoater]

Here is a picture after I finished grinding but before the 1708.

 

[mickyryan]

came out nice i can't barely even tell a difference

 

[RazorbackBoater]

Woodonglass I am considering using your paint method with the Majic paint and hardener from tractor supply. my plan is to paint paint the bottom, sides, cap and inside.

mickyryan I was also considering using raptor liner on the bottom of the hull. This will be a fishing boat in an area with lots of rocks.

Should I paint the entire boat and then scuff and apply raptor liner over the paint, or apply raptor liner directly to the fiberglass hull? Do you think raptor liner will stick to the paint?

 

[mickyryan]

raptor liner sticks great to fiberglass, scuff it up good , and the other stuff just use ya paint

 

[Woodonglass]

Woodonglass I am considering using your paint method with the Majic paint and hardener from tractor supply. my plan is to paint paint the bottom, sides, cap and inside.

mickyryan I was also considering using raptor liner on the bottom of the hull. This will be a fishing boat in an area with lots of rocks.

Should I paint the entire boat and then scuff and apply raptor liner over the paint, or apply raptor liner directly to the fiberglass hull? Do you think raptor liner will stick to the paint?

Let me know if I can be of assistance.

 

[RazorbackBoater]

So this holiday weekend I have been working on the boat. I have made my transom, fiberglassed it in and I think it turned out pretty good for a first time. I have been overly worried about the strength of the boat and me doing something wrong. I am starting to realize that my worrying may not have been necessary considering I am going to hang a 4hp outboard on the back!

I will be installing the one stringer soon and then the floor. I have all the pieces cut but have to wrap them in fiberglass and install them.

 

[RazorbackBoater]

Today I bedded the stringer and coated my floor boards in resin twice. This plywood really drinks resin. I am nearly out of resin, so I cannot do much more right now. Everything is certainly not perfect... but I am happy with how everything is turning out!