seriously need some experts help on this one, no water exits manifolds

[stang32]

Should not be a issue if redoing to pre-easy drain. Otherwise needs to reinstall missing parts

what do you mean by "pre easy drain"?

 

[Scott06]

i don't follow, how is changing the gaskets to full flow going to resolve anything when no water comes up at all? if the restiction was the issue, shouldnt i get something?

right now, i have the intermediate elbows disconnected so i can see water, if any, flowing out of the elbows.
with the thermostat installed, no water comes out of the elbows. and the back pressure inside the engine has already caused 2 crimp type hose clamps to pop off.

when there is no thermostat in place, plenty of water flows out of the elbows.

if i reinstall the hoses to the elbows, how do the manifolds cool while the engine is in warm up(thermostat closed)
hmm, now that i am thinking about it, with out the distribution assy, i have no idea how you would drain this system.
i think without reinstalling all the parts missing, i am just going to go around and round.

By removing hose 19,22,23 and the T that feeds them off 7&11 they eliminated the constant cold water feed to the risers. If you are only feeding the manifolds vs manifolds and risers separately, you dont use the restrictor gasket.
ad was suggesting go back to the two hose system thermostat housing, get ride of the restrictor gaskets hook the cold water supply to the rh side of the new housing… and you will have flow to through the manifolds and up and out the risers all the time. Cold water until thermostat opens, then warm water off thermostat when open

 

[stang32]

By removing hose 19,22,23 and the T that feeds them off 7&11 they eliminated the constant cold water feed to the risers. If you are only feeding the manifolds vs manifolds and risers separately, you dont use the restrictor gasket.
ad was suggesting go back to the two hose system thermostat housing, get ride of the restrictor gaskets hook the cold water supply to the rh side of the new housing… and you will have flow to through the manifolds and up and out the risers all the time. Cold water until thermostat opens, then warm water off thermostat when open

ok, a couple questions, if i were to do that, how do i get cold water to the t-stat housing ? do i change out the large hose on the left side of the housing to remove the tee at the botttom of that and remove hose #12, and put a cap on left left side of #9? how do i elimnate the hoses from t he feed line that go to the manifolds lower fitting?lastly, how do i drain the system come fall?
this all while the engine is in place while hanging upside down.

i think by the time all i said and done, i may be better off replacing the distribution assy and necessary hoses. at least going that route, i am only changing out the elbow on the feed hose for the distribution assy. the rest of the parts are done on top of the engine.

 

[alldodge]

The big issue is your current thermostat housing. As you have seen the housing will not pass water until the stat opens. If you keep the current housing you have to reinstall the Tee fitting and extra hoses.



This is what was there including the Tee from the single drain

Could change to this old style using the 4 port housing



Would keep the connections for the fuel pump on starboard side. When intake hose comes over to port side it would need to be connected to thermostat housing. This changes it from warm to cold Mans

To winterize, you could keep the check balls in place on Mans or put the drain elbows in place


The Block plugs would need to be pulled. Could also leave the lines installed just keep them plugged when running

 

[stang32]

so, you think if i reinstall the missing parts, i should be good to go?
the needed parts will be around $500. i think thats the most direct way to resolve this **** show

 

[alldodge]

Yes that will work. The stat can be closed and water will still flow because of the Tee fitting connecting hoses

 

[Scott06]

so, you think if i reinstall the missing parts, i should be good to go?
the needed parts will be around $500. i think thats the most direct way to resolve this **** show

Yes but I would not replace the plastic distribution between 7,11, & 19 housing with same OEM plastic. I think @Bt Doctur developed a way to sweat copper plumbing fittings together to replace it.

ok, a couple questions, if i were to do that, how do i get cold water to the t-stat housing ? do i change out the large hose on the left side of the housing to remove the tee at the botttom of that and remove hose #12, and put a cap on left left side of #9? how do i elimnate the hoses from t he feed line that go to the manifolds lower fitting?lastly, how do i drain the system come fall?
this all while the engine is in place while hanging upside down.

You would just need to connect hose 7 to water inlet of t housing and by removing the elbow that is there, cap the rest as they are just drains .

Weather you replace and go back to original or modify it I think comes done to weather you want to keep the single point drain or not - I think it has the reputation for clogging and not completely draining parts of the engine. If you rip that off I'd go with different thermostat housing and just feed constant cold up through the manifolds and risers, Replace the drain hose snakes with individual drains.

I have the multipoint drain system in a 21 ft bow rider - five plugs one one each oil pan rail, one under each exh manifold, and one in the big U hose at front of engine. My boat is easy to get at but yours may be different

 

[stang32]

Yes that will work. The stat can be closed and water will still flow because of the Tee fitting connecting hoses

ok, i think this is the last ?. with the original pars reinstalled, from what i can tell, the manifolds ony get cooled once the t-stat opens. is this right . i know the new hoses & tee send water to the elbows all the time but nothing to the manifolds until the temp get up

 

[alldodge]

ok, i think this is the last ?. with the original pars reinstalled, from what i can tell, the manifolds ony get cooled once the t-stat opens. is this right . i know the new hoses & tee send water to the elbows all the time but nothing to the manifolds until the temp get up

There will be some exchange of water in the Mans when the stat is open, just not as much. They should not get real hot, like no hotter the the stat temp

 

[alldodge]

Do agree with Scott BT made a nice distribution housing out of copper.
Guy at my dock has replaced 3 of them before he decided to just leave the drain plug out of it during winter. All those tubes can clog up and can drain more later.

 

[Scott06]

ok, i think this is the last ?. with the original pars reinstalled, from what i can tell, the manifolds ony get cooled once the t-stat opens. is this right . i know the new hoses & tee send water to the elbows all the time but nothing to the manifolds until the temp get up

Correct I think the T has check balls with springs in it that either get closed by water pressure when the T stat opens or restrict the raw water flow so the appropriate amount is available to cool the block. Have seen some threads here where check balls get worn etc and too much raw water goes into to exhaust causing an overheat.

 

[alldodge]

Item 20 in the pic above is just a plastic barbed fitting. The fitting has a reduced ID so when stat opens the water flows more freely to Mans instead of the elbows. Cost about $4
https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31752/13884/210

 

[Scott06]

Item 20 in the pic above is just a plastic barbed fitting. The fitting has a reduced ID so when stat opens the water flows more freely to Mans instead of the elbows. Cost about $4
https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31752/13884/210

Even better thanks for the clarification

 

[stang32]

There will be some exchange of water in the Mans when the stat is open, just not as much. They should not get real hot, like no hotter the the stat temp

right but until the t=stat opens, the manifolds have nothing flowing, only area flowing water is the elbows. i guess thats how its designed.

 

[stang32]

so the desicion has been made to put it back the way it came from the factory. for the time being, i removed the stat so the boat can go back in the water and get off the street, (neighbors not happy) so after all this, we are back to the original concern, temp not rising above 100.
that will be rectified when the parts come in.
at least the boat can be used and not cook the manifolds.

where do i view the water dist. alternative the bt made?

 

[alldodge]

Pm @Bt Doctur if he doesn't answer

 

[Scott06]

so the desicion has been made to put it back the way it came from the factory. for the time being, i removed the stat so the boat can go back in the water and get off the street, (neighbors not happy) so after all this, we are back to the original concern, temp not rising above 100.
that will be rectified when the parts come in.
at least the boat can be used and not cook the manifolds.

where do i view the water dist. alternative the bt made?

If parts are long lead time you can probably find a restrictor or washer to put in place of thermostat or drill a s load of holes in stat to bypass water

 

[stang32]

If parts are long lead time you can probably find a restrictor or washer to put in place of thermostat or drill a s load of holes in stat to bypass water

why not just run it without the thermostat for the time being?

 

[Scott06]

why not just run it without the thermostat for the time being?

so it doesnt run at 100-120 degrees and still constantly supplies water to elbows

 

[stang32]

so it doesnt run at 100-120 degrees and still constantly supplies water to elbows

why is that a bad thing?