Rough and ready '74 Starcraft Chieftan 18' rebuild

[laurentide]

CC, I can't get a good photo down there...it's behind the fuel tank, but it's definitely separating. It's a single ply coming up, and it has give when I press on it. It's all good, dry wood, but the combination of voids and whatever bonding agent they used just ain't made for a boat transom. It's still safe and I plan to run it to the end of the season...November or December.

Is there a void free alternative to marine ply? It's probably something I'd have to order around these parts. What are you planning to use?

I could just run another couple of bolts through there with big fender washers, but that's more holes near the waterline.

 

[GA_Boater]

All we're going to see is behinds and elbows under splashwells and beside motors looking for ACX coming undone.

Maybe it was just a bad sheet of ACX, Chem. :noidea: It still isn't inspring. Major Bummer! :blue:

 

[laurentide]

All we're going to see is behinds and elbows under splashwells and beside motors looking for ACX coming undone.

Maybe it was just a bad sheet of ACX, Chem. :noidea: It still isn't inspring. Major Bummer! :blue:

Probably, as lots of folks have used it without issue.

 

[classiccat]

CC, I can't get a good photo down there...it's behind the fuel tank, but it's definitely separating. It's a single ply coming up, and it has give when I press on it. It's all good, dry wood, but the combination of voids and whatever bonding agent they used just ain't made for a boat transom. It's still safe and I plan to run it to the end of the season...November or December.

Is there a void free alternative to marine ply? It's probably something I'd have to order around these parts. What are you planning to use?

I could just run another couple of bolts through there with big fender washers, but that's more holes near the waterline.

I used marine ply and had my own transom drama...starting at post #988 (and continued for about 200 posts of your typical mob jaw-jackin' :lol...it wasn't until post #1069 that I got my issues straightened-out...literally.

 

[laurentide]

I used marine ply and had my own transom drama...starting at post #988 (and continued for about 200 posts of your typical mob jaw-jackin' :lol...it wasn't until post #1069 that I got my issues straightened-out...literally.

Bah, I totally saw all those posts. Got lost in the memory blur of SC threads, I guess! BTW, that's probably the most overkill (in a good way) aluminum boat transom for many, many miles!

I'm gonna keep an eye on my issue for now. When I re-do it I'll be using the countersunk screw deal.

Thanks!

 

[Watermann]

Oh jeez Chem that transom wood shouldn't have done that at all, just be thankful you don't have an I/O!

On my 2 builds just I bite the bullet and went to the local lumber yard and order up all marine ply. They special ship it for free and it's wrapped and scabbed with OSB to protect it. On my Chief's transom I put on 3 coats of spar, primer and then 2 coats of tractor paint. Then I put spar on all the edges. It would be a month of work to replace the transom in an I/O, I don't even want to think about it.

The other job might be worse though now that I think about it, paint stripping! :faint2:

 

[laurentide]

Watermann, ya, the transom's gonna be a pain when I get to it. I'll be putting in that order when I do. This huge bracket that I'm installing may actually buy me some time, as it will effectively eliminate further delam due to its location near the problem. It's not really a structural area where it's happening, and it's one or two of ten plies. But I need to do it at some point for peace of mind.

Paint stripping doesn't phase me that much...it's dumb grunt work. I'm good at that

 

[laurentide]

So dudes, I mentioned a bracket for the kicker. Here it is before required modifications. As you can see, the way it sits now it would be a big water scoop, 'cause it's open on the bottom. So I have to cut a section out before I bolt the engine on. Once that's done, I've got an extremely sturdy powder coated aluminum kicker bracker made of 3/8" plate. It's two pieces, so the rear piece that the engine mounts on will have about 5 inches taken out from the bottom, angled from the lower bolts up and straight across the back.

I'll cut it sorta like this:

Dropped down the LU will be in plenty of water in even rough stuff:

...and underway it'll be out of the water entirely (sorry, this photo is terrible)

I got it because I won't have to strap it down when trailering and I'll never need another bracket.


As for the transom issue, I've got some SS wood screws with fender washers that brought everything back together from inside the splashwell, where it was approximately 140 degrees F. I'm going to keep an eye on it and replace it if things get worse. I'm comfortable with it for now as it stays dry in there.

I just ordered a water pump kit 'cause I've got diluted gear oil in the Johnny LU. It's the water pump seal I believe...that spaghetti gasket thing that goes under the top housing. I'll be off the water for a couple of weeks at least due to a trip down south and various repair/modification issues. I should be back some time in August with new canvas, a sealed up LU, and maybe less paint on the hull.

Cheers guys!

 

[classiccat]

So dudes, I mentioned a bracket for the kicker. Here it is before required modifications. As you can see, the way it sits now it would be a big water scoop, 'cause it's open on the bottom. So I have to cut a section out before I bolt the engine on. Once that's done, I've got an extremely sturdy powder coated aluminum kicker bracker made of 3/8" plate. It's two pieces, so the rear piece that the engine mounts on will have about 5 inches taken out from the bottom, angled from the lower bolts up and straight across the back.

I'll cut it sorta like this:

Dropped down the LU will be in plenty of water in even rough stuff:

...and underway it'll be out of the water entirely (sorry, this photo is terrible)

I got it because I won't have to strap it down when trailering and I'll never need another bracket.


As for the transom issue, I've got some SS wood screws with fender washers that brought everything back together from inside the splashwell, where it was approximately 140 degrees F. I'm going to keep an eye on it and replace it if things get worse. I'm comfortable with it for now as it stays dry in there.

I just ordered a water pump kit 'cause I've got diluted gear oil in the Johnny LU. It's the water pump seal I believe...that spaghetti gasket thing that goes under the top housing. I'll be off the water for a couple of weeks at least due to a trip down south and various repair/modification issues. I should be back some time in August with new canvas, a sealed up LU, and maybe less paint on the hull.

Cheers guys!

Bracket looks stout!!

Unfortunately the spaghetti wouldnt lead to watery gear oil....there's still a driveshaft seal that keeps the agua out...at least thats what my foggy memory is tellin me :lol: next time u drop the lu, pressure test to isolate the leak. I use a mity-vac and a tub of water.

 

[Watermann]

That's a stout looking kicker mount alright, dang!. That tandem trailer is a good fit for your Chief, I really like the looks of tandems.

I thought you replaced the prop shaft seals, anyway it's usually either that or the drive shaft seals that cause the LU shake. Enjoy your time off down south. Is it just me or is summer really going by fast this year?

 

[classiccat]

^^^ my $$$ is on that chintzy o-ring in the shift rod housing :lol:

 

[laurentide]

Bracket looks stout!!

Unfortunately the spaghetti wouldnt lead to watery gear oil....there's still a driveshaft seal that keeps the agua out...at least thats what my foggy memory is tellin me :lol: next time u drop the lu, pressure test to isolate the leak. I use a mity-vac and a tub of water.

CC, I ordered this kit:

Can you let me know if you think the driveshaft seal is in there? I realize you'd have to look it up, but do have a part #?

EDIT: I'll do a pressure test, too. Thanks!

 

[Watermann]

No the drive shaft seal is in the cap underneath the pump. It's a double seal. Would need your serial # to make sure it's the right part.

 

[laurentide]

That's a stout looking kicker mount alright, dang!. That tandem trailer is a good fit for your Chief, I really like the looks of tandems.

I thought you replaced the prop shaft seals, anyway it's usually either that or the drive shaft seals that cause the LU shake. Enjoy your time off down south. Is it just me or is summer really going by fast this year?

Yeah, midsummer already. It's cruisin' by.

I'm pretty sure my prop shaft seals are good, as I had a good look last time I had the prop off (no leak test, though). I'm hoping for D/S seal...I don't want to have to pull that carrier bearing. I guess I'll see soon enough.

 

[classiccat]

CC, I ordered this kit:

Can you let me know if you think the driveshaft seal is in there? I realize you'd have to look it up, but do have a part #?

EDIT: I'll do a pressure test, too. Thanks!

Afraid not chem...that's a waterpump kit. The driveshaft seals (they go back to back) are in the top of the bearing carrier...which is actually pretty nice. There is a big o-ring that goes on the outer bearing carrier groove that you should replace as well. I ripped my '75 'Rude's LU apart in the early stages of my resto thread if you need some visuals...and mob-banter

 

[laurentide]

Afraid not chem...that's a waterpump kit. The driveshaft seals (they go back to back) are in the top of the bearing carrier...which is actually pretty nice. There is a big o-ring that goes on the outer bearing carrier groove that you should replace as well. I ripped my '75 'Rude's LU apart in the early stages of my resto thread if you need some visuals...and mob-banter

Gotcha, thanks!

 

[laurentide]

No the drive shaft seal is in the cap underneath the pump. It's a double seal. Would need your serial # to make sure it's the right part.

Guys, I was just re-reading your posts from last night and boy do I feel dumb. Of course it's not the water pump letting oil in :facepalm:.

Anyway, I've got the two back to back spring seals and a bearing o-ring coming with the water pump parts. I also ordered a mitivac for the test before I get into it. CC, if you happen to read this, did you just use an oil pump fitting for the vac pump to pressurize the LU?

Thanks again guys. I'll post up the results whenever I can find the time to drop the lower.

Cheers!

 

[classiccat]

Guys, I was just re-reading your posts from last night and boy do I feel dumb. Of course it's not the water pump letting oil in :facepalm:.

Anyway, I've got the two back to back spring seals and a bearing o-ring coming with the water pump parts. I also ordered a mitivac for the test before I get into it. CC, if you happen to read this, did you just use an oil pump fitting for the vac pump to pressurize the LU?

Thanks again guys. I'll post up the results whenever I can find the time to drop the lower.

Cheers!

Exactly...I use an oil-fill fitting. Make sure you get a good seal to the fitting...ask me how I know :facepalm:

 

[laurentide]

Exactly...I use an oil-fill fitting. Make sure you get a good seal to the fitting...ask me how I know :facepalm:

:thumb:

 

[laurentide]

Update to my latest adventure in amateur metal working, I got the profile cut out. I started with the circ saw, then moved to the jigsaw. I actually think the cheap jigsaw I have is easier, safer, and rips a better line than the circ. It's slow, but it came out alright:

The lower port side of the bracket might hit the water depending on speed, but it'll certainly be no worse than a transducer if even that:

The bracket is basically the same as bolting to a transom, but I can't do that on my curved transom with the steering arm for the main there. It has plastic isolators on the bolts that hold the engine mount, so vibration should be cut down dramatically. It was definitely noticeable on the rickety adjustable. And it's cheaper than any of the 4 stroke adjustables. It's a pretty good option if you have a long shaft kicker that you'll use a bunch:

http://www.iboats.com/Fixed-Outboard...view_id.858461

Oh, and check out what Mr. Genius here did last year. I can't remember the circumstances clearly, but I needed to drain my gear oil and apparently didn't have any drain/vent washers. So I used hardware store o-rings. Then when I changed the oil again at some point, I put the washers over the o-rings:

I think I found my leak :facepalm:. I'm going to pressure test it to be sure, but, man, what I dummy I am sometimes .

I'll still replace the oil seals and water pump if that's the case at the end of my season.

Later guys.

EDIT: As always, my apologies for bad photo quality. Poor light, junky phone camera...though I've got a swanky new android on the way to replace it soon.