Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

dwilley

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

I sent Stratos an email with my serial number and a bunch of pictures of the screw up. I don't expect them to help but at least they know my concern. Thanks for the good links. So is the consensus that I need to replace the entire transom wood? What is the best way to build the fiberglass up on the outside to replace the small void that will be left when I remove the cut piece? Can I just fill it with fiberglass and resin then sand smooth on the outside. Will it bond to the factory fiberglass? How do I need to prep it?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

I'd recommend using a r/o sander and 36 grit discs. sand the cut so that it bevels about 2" from the outside into the cut. Then lay several layers of 4" pieces of CSM and1708 glass to fill the beveled area. Sand, Fair and gelcoat. You'll never know it was there. Once the transom is out, you can lay a couple of layers of 1708 glass on the inside and she'll be a TANK.
 

dwilley

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

I am going to do what Woodonglass said but I am not exactly sure how to fill the void. Do I stagger the layers of CSM and 1708? Also, should I let the pieces bend up onto the beveled area or should I cut them different widths so the edge is butted up next to beveled area? Look at my simple picture showing the two different ways to fill the void.

Is the CSM and 1708 sold on ebay any good? I am planning on getting some CSM, 1708, poly resin, and gelcoat and give it my best shot.

Thanks for the help.
 

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jbcurt00

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

Option1, nice job on the graphic

The only ebay seller I ever tried to work w/ would sell the CSM & 1708 in bulk (an entire roll 100-110lbs ea, 45-70 linear yards ea) but it was still more expensive per yard then US Comp, delivered to my zipcode. And many, many people here have used US Comp for resin & glass, how many have used this ebay seller?

HazMat shipping is the killer for resin. Google can help you find online sellers of supplies, then check their shipping rates. Cheaper supplies and more expensive shipping, sometimes nets zero savings. If you can find glass close to you, you might get lucky & get a source for resin too. As long as they don't think you're in competition w/ their shop, some commercial repair places will sell you resin or glass as you need it, for less then you could buy it elsewhere. They are able to buy & use HUGE quanities and pay wholesale. So any dollar amount over that per unit cost is extra income for the shop. You'll need good clean buckets & well sealing lids. I have not been successful trying to buy glass or resin this way, others have been VERY successful.
 

dwilley

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

Thanks for all the help. I would be lost without you guys. I may need some more assistance doing the gel coat but I will do some searching and see what I can find. I just hope the repair job sticks to the original fiberglass in the bevel. I don't know why but it always seems like I have things go wrong that no one has ever seen. Just lucky I guess, who would have thought the boat could come like that from the factory.

Thanks
 

JDA1975

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

I am not sure which part of Missouri you are in, but if your on the south east side, a little trip to Memphis, TN could save you money on shipping...There is a place called Advanced Plastics there, and they can get anything ya need.
 

dwilley

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

I read the sticky on fiberglass and I have a few more questions.

1. Does it matter what type of fiberglass I start and end with. I plan to layer 1708 and CSM but does it matter which one is on the inside and which is on the outside of the boat?

2. Since I'm trying to adhere to existing fiberglass, should I use epoxy instead of poly?

3. Are you supposed to let the layers dry or cure before adding another layer or can I just keep layering while everything is wet.

4. I plan to cover the new transom wood on the inside with a solid one piece of fiberglass. Should I use the CSM or 1708 for this? Is one layer enough?

Once I figure these things out I plan to order my supplies. I plan to get some 1.5 oz CSM, some 1708, and resin, gel coat and see what I can do. I am going to bevel it down like suggested then build up the layers with CSM and 1708. I am then going to apply resin to the inside of the fiberglass already on the boat then install the transom wood. Then I will tab the wood in before covering with a final layer. Then I will sand smooth, clean, and apply the gel coat to the outside.

Let me know if you guys have any other words of wisdom?
 

CaptainKickback

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

I am curious that your original post said you just discovered the water leaking into the bilge last boating season. It could be that whatever they did at the factory to seal up their botched job could have held for all these years and finally broke loose only recently.

I also don't remember hearing you say that yo have drilled any test holes to see how extensive the damage is. A little testing may save you a lot of time and effort.

As to you questions above,

#1 It is generally accepted to put down 2 layers of CSM and then a layer of cloth. The idea is the CSM fills into smaller imperfections of the surface easier than a heavy cloth. However, Since the 1708 has a layer of each, put your CSM down, then the 1708 on top of it.

#2 Poly is easier to use and less expensive, but not as strong. Epoxy will stick to a poly or epoxy hull. New poly will not stick well to an epoxy hull. I assume your hull is poly, but make sure. Also, when you order your resin, make sure you tell your supplier what you are using it for (below the waterline) so they can make sure you get the right resin.

#3 You can put several layers down in one sitting, say a CSM and a 1708. Will be OK. What happens if you put too many layers on at once, the heat generated actually damages the resin.

#4 As WOG said, CSM and 1708 on the inside.

Sea ya...
 

dwilley

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

Thanks for all the help. Is there an easy way to tell if the hull is epoxy or poly? If I can't figure it out I may just go with epoxy to be safe, if the price difference isn't outrageous.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

You're boat is made from Poly. You need to purchase Un-Waxed Laminating resin. Wet on Wet is best. CSM always goes down first and last. The weave of the cloth will show through if not covered by CSM. If you don't mind seeing the weave pattern then you can forego the last layer of CSM. I would not bother with using epoxy. Not needed IMHO.
 

dwilley

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

Thanks, you guys have helped a bunch. Couldn't do it without you.
 

CaptainKickback

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

Have to go with WOG on the poly. Much easier to use. And epoxy is about double the cost.

Good luck. We'll be watching for updates.

Sea ya...
 

dwilley

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

I am getting ready to order my supplies from uscomposites. What do they sell that is equivalent to 1708? I read once what 1708 is but I can't seem to find it now. I am also planning to buy some 1.5 oz CSM.

Also I am not sure what resin I need they have many to choose from. I have narrowed down to these:

404 Tooling Polyester Resin-Isophthalic
435 Standard Polyester Layup Resin (Marine Grade Resin)
EB General Purpose Polyester Resin

Any recommendations?

Do these come with hardener?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

uscomposites sells the 1708 biaxial cloth. I'd buy the 435 resin and it comes with Hardener.
 

Chip Chester

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

Did Stratos ever reply to your email? Even just to acknowledge that they got it?
 

dwilley

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

One final question, what material should I use to tab the transom in, CSM or 1708? Thanks for all the help.

Also, yes Stratos did reply to my email. They responded just like I thought they would. They pretty much told me it's not their problem because the boat is old and out of warranty. It would have been nice if they would have at least offered to pay for part of the materials since this was a manufacturing defect. Oh well, I'm gonna fix it way better than they did and be back on the water.
 

mrdjflores

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Re: Rotten transom (you won't believe why), how do I fix it?

i've seen people tab with either, but i think most prefer to just use CSM....from my understanding, 1708 is just CSM and Cloth semi-stitched together...could be more to it than that though
 
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