Restoration 1984 Scarab I 21.5'

[DrunkenSailor2020]

Lets start at the beginning. the boat was purchased in 95 by my father when i was 9. it's been in the family ever since. it's had a myriad of hot small block motors over the years, had the outdrive upgraded to a bravo 1, drive shower, been gel coated about 20 years ago, interior about 15 years ago. was running a stock motor for last 13 years or so. It hasn't had much love ever since and was run hard and put away wet. Went to upgrade the tired motor about 2 years ago and found rotten motor mounts. Had them replaced. went to install motor and discovered rotten transom. upon further digging, nearly every piece of wood in the stringer system and the plywood in the cabin floor was rotten as well. started doing some research (see link)
https://forums.iboats.com/threads/1985-21-wellcraft.576503/

decided to take another route and broke the boat down into its main three sections, the top, the engine bay, and the lower hull. the top has the cockpit floor attached to it, it's all one molded piece.
SEE ATTACHED PICTURES, TO BE CONTINUED IN NEXT POST.

 

[DrunkenSailor2020]

Continued with more pictures to get us caught up to speed. I'm currently a year into the project from when i started tearing the boat apart. I didn't do anything to it over the summer, moved and just now getting organized again to start back up on stringers. All old wood has been removed and the inner hull has been cleaned thoroughly. The new transom has been cut but yet to be installed. Using marine plywood for transom and stringers, 3/4".

 

[racerone]

I have done transom / stringer work on a 1979 SCARAB SPORT.-----The factory brochure says -----" World class boats "----Not really true in my opinion.----Typical cheap wood used in them !!

 

[jbcurt00]

Good luck w your project @DrunkenSailor2020

 

[DrunkenSailor2020]

SO, my question at this point, what do you recommend for fiberglass and resin. keep in mind, my budget is limited. i still have to refit everything else too. goal is water ready for May 2021. I am not a fiberglass guy. i'll be learning as i go. i had two old salts helping in the beginning but this year has taken a toll on them and i believe i'll be on my own. Any GOOD advice is greatly appreciated.
NOTE: this boat will be run hard in freshwater predominantly. My son will end up building it again in hopefully another 30 years.

 

[racerone]

The ----Action Marine 17 ---I am doing will not not have any wood in it.-----Not in the transom.----Not in the ribs .----Not in the stringers.----Not in the floor.---Not in deck supports.------All composite material and West System epoxy.

 

[tpenfield]

Welcome @DrunkenSailor2020 . . .

This is a great restoration thread to see and it looks like you are well on your way. Most of the boats that we see restored here are of the older design, where the cockpit floor is separate from the cap for the boat, and the boat is usually restored with the cap remaining in place.

Your boat is of the newer design where the cockpit floor is part of the cap . . . essentially a 'clam shell'. You approach seems quite sound in separating the cap/cockpit from the hull. The thread you referenced shows that the person cut the cockpit sidewalls in order to remove the cockpit floor, while leaving the cap in place. I think that made for a trickier rebuild, although it may have seemed more expedient for him at the time.

It seems like Scarab was one of the first companies to transition to the 'clam shell' design (mid 1980's) . . . Formula followed suit a few years later, introducing the clam shell in 1987.

As you saw, there was/is a small forest of wood in these boats. I'm sure you will be able to re-build it better than it ever was. Pay particular attention to the height of the stringer system that you build as it needs to be precise as to what it was or else the cockpit floor will not mate to it properly when you go to re-install the cap.

For budget minded re-building polyester resin is going to be the most economical. If you have a fiberglass supply house nearby, you can save money on shipping & Haz. Mat. costs. 1708 stitched cloth is a good choice for tabbing in the stringers. If you have not bought the wood yet . . . Exterior grade plywood is every bit as good/resilient than marine grade. The wood veneers are just not as pure. Then there is the foam. Pour-in will be best and you will want to do a good job of it as it will strengthen the boat considerably. Additionally, I would box in the stringer system for rigidity. The cockpit sole will sit on top of the stringer grid. Some boats actually bond the cockpit sole to the grid. . . . others just let the cockpit sole rest on the grid. . . . I would bond it.

 

[DrunkenSailor2020]

Please elaborate on box in the stringer system. Are you suggesting plywood and glass over the top of mid and aft stringers and ribs before the top goes on?

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Please elaborate on box in the stringer system. Are you suggesting plywood and glass over the top of mid and aft stringers and ribs before the top goes on?

@tpenfield
I’m curious too. That would create a “lid” for the pour in foam cavities, and provide a good base for the cap. You can definitely save some money using exterior grade plywood and polyester resin, especially if you’re lucky enough to be able to source it locally. Very nice progress on your restoration by the way.

 

[tpenfield]

Please elaborate on box in the stringer system. Are you suggesting plywood and glass over the top of mid and aft stringers and ribs before the top goes on?

It looked like from the pictures that the cockpit sole was laid directly over the stringers. (if I've go that right) Therefore the strength of the stringer system would be (was) relying on the cockpit sole for rigidity, and a lot would depend on how well the cockpit sole could be adhered to the top edge of the stringers. However, that my not be the best approach, and boxing in the top of the stringer system would probably be better. It would require that you accommodate about 1/2" in your stringer system for the plywood 'top' to be laid over the stringers. . . and then the cockpit sole could be adhered to the plywood top . . . The results would be a stronger stringer structure and more contact surface for the cockpit sole.

It also did not look like the boat had foam in the stringer system, which would make it weaker and not have positive flotation. Boxing in the stringer grid would allow you to fill the chambers with foam.