RESCUE

[jrttoday]

since I have a few minutes, I find this noteworthy. I use an old nasal spray bottle with the nozzle drilled out to fill my power t/t pump. Am currently using it with TCW-3 to squirt back to rod bearings etc. To reach crank bearings, am tilting motor near horizontal and letting the stream fall back into the crankcase.

Needless to say, I've got a mess going on! :lol: rather had, that was a few ago... good thing I "had" some cat litter left

 

[jrttoday]

stopped raining long enough for me to make the first cut on my transom project <<< http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...uilding-and-hull-repair/10091665-can-of-worms >>> and am NOT gonna start another thread just to ramble. Was looking at my 15 or so gallon fuel tank that I never quite fill. I always run fresh fuel and premix 50:1 ---- adding the oil first.

I have one 6gal tank that came with my 100hp and am considering buying another, just so I can shake 'em occasionally. When they started with oil-injection, that definitely lengthened the life of an outboard; BUT created other problems.

Am also considering using my 12V air compressor and running a hose in the tank to stir things up. Any thoughts before I get into trouble? :lol:

 

[jrttoday]

almost asleep on the couch and figured out what I might try here. Since I have two fuel pumps, thinking of mounting one on the tank to pull fuel from the bottom and and feed it right back in; using vacuum from the motor while running. Cost me 6 or 8 foot of hose? hmmmmmmm

 

[jrttoday]

really not ready for the prop yet, but was far enough along to at least look. I have three thrust washers and not liking any of 'em. The one that's on there is the best, but only have a 1/16" gap with the nut finger tight
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bought that 17p four blade last summer for only $130; came off a 2003 Rude 90h. Might not be enough for this 115 though; swap out if not and hope they have what I need.[/URL]
That 21p on the floor has been reworked a time or two too many - diameter is down 3/4" and will trim it some more to make a test prop. Maybe I could get someone like WOG to paint this thing after I get her running, but they'd have to paint everything I own to have it all match!! even the shrubbery!

 

[jrttoday]

from the archives lol, "we are not a glum lot" :lol:

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[jrttoday]

spent two hours this morning going through a mountain of expired outboards! Only to find this one washer close enough to do something with. Came off a Yamaha of unknown horsepower - said Yamaha somewhere, but was mostly stripped.
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washer on the right came with 115 and is grooved from wear, somebody swapped 'em. Looks like I'll be doing some filecrometer work today... at least it fits the bushing[/URL]

 

[jrttoday]

MAN!!!!!!!!!! what was I thinking? I filed and filed and filed and ..... finally decided to "cheat" and use a burr bit. The file was faster as it turned out, but at least a break from filing! lol My bit may be old, but that stainless...... ummmmmm Only gained another 1/16, but have an 1/8th with it torqued

 

[jrttoday]

I got behind a US Mail truck on the interstate last night and it became obvious "why" I hadn't received the manual I'd ordered awhile back yet :lol: Was finally able to pass him after we both took the same exit. Just as I get around him, they start playing Jimi Hendrix, "Crosstown Traffic"!!!!! ound:ound:

arrived just now but in the middle of my transom, might be a few more... This motor's very similar to the 100; main reason at present is for low speed air adjustment
http://[URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/user/jrttoday/media/Scan0009_zpsobig4ujz.jpg.html]

guess there was a hair on my scanner lol[/URL]

 

[jrttoday]

maybe this will help someone. Am splicing in the harness that came with the 115 to my remote. A few of the ten wires can be wired direct, others cannot. I'd rather solder than just use butt connectors. Soldering two loose wires can be challenging, at least it is for me - and this is what I do.

1st, cut the insulation off of the ends, then hold them in my ho-made needle nose vise grips. A light torching makes the rest come off easily, sand, crimp, flux, and solder. A little bit of electric tape, then cover with liquid electric tape. Lasts forever. There may be other ways, but this works for me.

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[jrttoday]

racerone excuse me for calling you out, but you seem to have a lot of knowledge on these older OMC's. And the guy I know locally won't be back in town until next weekend. If the wind will die down, I'd like to get this harness spliced in sooner.
Question(s) - end plugs to motors are the same, wires color coded the same. I do not want to fry anything - should I trace all wires anyway?
115esl70d wiring diagram says "Ignition Safety Circuit Assembly" and 100esl72r diagram says "Clipper Circuit Assembly" - I hate to assume, yet, both hook to rectifier and terminal block. Maybe it's the terminal block that's confusing - they're wired up differently on the two motors.

in looking again - 115 diagram terminal block is vertical, 100 horizontal. Getting my glasses out helps!! Still not wiring pro...

 

[jrttoday]

The eye strain was incredible, but some things you just need figure out on your own. Looking over both motors and referring back to the diagrams really helped my understanding; and will benefit me down the road. Soldering iron wasn't up to the task and the wind made the torch difficult. Depending upon where I get with the transom, I hope to have her running in a day or two? Winter weather....

 

[jrttoday]

setting the cam roller, I found the timing advance linkage a tad sluggish. The grease seemed real old and stiff, even for the cold temps. Cleaned up, the anti-reverse spring looked new, but broken. New spring $35 online see if I can find a used one locally tomorrow. My 100 doesn't have one, supposed to... and there are no remnants of a destroyed one.

 

[jrttoday]

in our shop manuals under "maintenance", there should be a section on "maintaining personal relationships with those you do business with" jmho. I'm almost asleep in my truck when the owner shows up to unlock the doors. We joke around a few minutes while I casually help him open up. I tell him what I need, and he jokingly says, "old electric shift, we can't give that stuff away! :lol:

we found an old V4 something out back, he pulled the flywheel and handed me a screwdriver; "have at it". Wouldn't take a dime for the spring, so I insisted on buying the stator, Dcap, Rbutton, and wires. Left the coil because I already have three, plus the one on the. motor. $20 was the most he'd take... just kidding. Twenty was all he wanted for it.
In all likelihood, there are probably very few of us still running old electric shifts? I might be surprised, they're very good motors
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Then I'm trying to leave after being there for over an hour, and his brother holds me up trying to "give" me an old Pflueger spinning reel. Whether I'm interested or not, "I" might be in a hurry, but I try not to rush people - the world does not revolve around me[/URL]
I don't think I need that stuff presently, but lots of parts are obsolete for these motors.

 

[jrttoday]

between interruptions and me telling you that I'm not getting anything done, I am not getting much done. Took a lot of persuading to get the control lever off. Glad I did, needs new grease etc
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wish I had a controlled environment, close to 100% humidity; motor sweating just sitting there[/URL]

 

[jrttoday]

not a concern, but I've wondered why the carb bodies are different colors - bottom is dull silverish/top is kind of a dull green and is not paint. Bowls are the same color...

edit- best guess on the broken anti- reverse spring is that "I" broke it when checking control arm travel. Guessing it had partially seized or stuck in the grease etc. The trigger extremely difficult to remove also; had a rust stain on top against the crankshaft.

 

[jrttoday]

struck gold again today! Maybe have been talking to the wrong people? but nobody seemed to know anything about a"type D" grease. I tend to stay away from outboard dealerships because they have little to nothing in my budget :lol: Found out that lithium will do.
Knew I had this somewhere, been lugging it around for twenty years. I kinda remember my dad using it back in the '60s?
My grandparents etc were survivors of the Great Depression - equals waste not, want not
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[jrttoday]

re-routed fuel lines under the hood, again... They came off the 100 and only had one season on 'em. Had switched out to new ethanol resistant even though I'd mostly been using ethanol free.
Discovered you need to be careful when hooking up these lines. The liner WILL separate from the hose and create a blockage or restriction. A drop of WD on the nipple/barb and spin the lines on to avoid problem.

There's a thread on iboats somewhere showing pictures of what ethanol will do to your carbs.

 

[jrttoday]

on muffs, the 100 could be as high as 3 or 4 psi; which now makes me think that the Tstat is stuck open. What they lack in water quality is made up in pressure! 115 is still on its stand, but hooked it up for preliminary testing. On muffs, no pressure, water came out port side exhaust and trickled out starboard side.

Spun it with the starter, engages well but not releasing. 1000 amp battery was showing 12.4V but load test showed on the line for weak. Been charging it every week or two for awhile now????? Most likely need to work on the starter some. Gotta love that Lectric shift prop spin!!!!!! Was really good to see that! even though she's not quite ready to fire...

Spent most of the day chasing the water problem. Backflushed the motor, changed the intake hoses from the housing to heads, have water coming out both sides of housing, but not enough pressure to fill the block and exit from the top of head? Might need to be running? Couldn't separate the housing to investigate and I tried! You'd think with that much water pressure... maybe not? Leave it alone???? and just be cautious - closely monitoring temp upon first start up. Or maybe fix starter, spin it, and see what I have then?:help:

And I have a leak from the bolt holding the guide bar for wires to the spark advance and ground wire - goes into the top water jacket, no big deal...

 

[jrttoday]

what was I thinking? if water was coming out of that bolt hole..... means it has to be making it to the top on hose pressure? Still nothing out of cylinder water jacket plug hole.
Tore the starter down and found a brush needs replacing. The commature has an arc mark and pitted; not going to rebuild it right now. Pulled the one of the parts motor and worry about it later. It might can be turned out if I can't find one. Not sure you can see it? upper right hand side
http://[URL=http://s173.photobucket.com/user/jrttoday/media/DSCF0018_zpsxuop18l3.jpg.html]

guessing the pit is 1/16th deep; and then, the armature may have some issues..... scrap it probably, other one's working OK[/URL]

 

[jrttoday]

now that the initial excitement has worn off and I'm working on her, am discovering a thing or two. The starter had been had been previously worked on - there's a scribe mark on its housing. Internal damage and dirt do not match the rest of this outboard. Flywheel shows no sign of engagement or much use; nor any thing else on the motor shows sign of use.
Post #33 shows scribe mark and #26 and #52 show flywheel.