Replacing stringers.

[Jking9203]

I have a 1967 fiberglass 16 ft boat. Gonna replace the stringers I heard you’re not supposed to do them on the trailer, is this true? I want to do this myself instead of paying someone 3,000 plus. Also how much do you think this will run me

 

[gm280]

If your trailer offers the needed support, go for it. That support is keeping the hull shape when you remove the old rotted stringers. First of all take both measurements and pictures so later on down the road you can use them to make sure everything fits back together. Lots of refurbished hulls are on the trailer. Some add side supports to keep the sides from splaying out so the top/cap can fit back on. So of course doing the work on the trailer is absolutely possible. The reason a lot of boaters remove their boats off the trailer is they want to work on the trailer at the same time. Otherwise go for it... JMHO

 

[todhunter]

I'm doing mine on the trailer. My trailer has bunks instead of rollers - I've heard some say that the roller trailers may not offer the support needed without building additional support/cradle around the boat. I removed the cap on my boat, and when bedding the stringers and glassing in the deck pieces, I would use ratchet straps to get the top of the hull back in shape to within about 1/4" of where it should be. It splayed open about 1" in some places at the worst, but after glassing everything in, it's pretty much dead on without the ratchet straps.

I agree with gm280 - take lots of pictures and draw lots of sketches.

For cost, it depends on how deep you go on the restoration, what materials you go with, and what tools and consumables you already have. I did new transom, stringers, and deck on an 18.5 ft boat, and I'd say you should plan to spend about $2,500 - $3,000 on materials with you doing the work yourself. Lumber has skyrocketed so if you're using wood, get ready to be shocked when you go price it out.

 

[Steelguitarman]

If you are around the ohio/lake Erie area, a place called homestead hardwood sells good marine grade plywood. For 1/2in 5 ply AB doug fir, it cost me about $70 a sheet. But let me tell you, everything they sell at lowes, menards, home depot abosutly sucks. Lots of voids, warped, and the wood feels lighter and not nearly as sturdy. Find a place like homestead hardwoods that acually sells decent plywood if you're going that route. It would even be worth a days drive if nothing else is around you. I have a 17 foot trihull, and its rebuild was around 2500.

If the stringers are rotted, everything else is likly too. I used white oak for my stringers. That may or may not been the best, but I really soaked them with epoxy. Are you planning on a full rebuild, or was the 3000 estimate for someone else just the stringers?

 

[todhunter]

Meh, my rebuild went fine with ACX plywood. I got my 3/4" from Home Depot ($41/sht) and had to buy my 1/2" from a local lumber supplier ($55/sht) because the big box stores around me didn't carry it. Yes, there are some voids on the C-grade side - just fill with peanut butter right before you lay your glass. Yes, some of the sheets were slightly warped - they flatten out fine when you screw/clamp them into place on the boat. I'm a novice hack so take my advice for what it's worth, but I didn't see the financial benefit of buying actual marine grade plywood.

 

[Jking9203]

If you are around the ohio/lake Erie area, a place called homestead hardwood sells good marine grade plywood. For 1/2in 5 ply AB doug fir, it cost me about $70 a sheet. But let me tell you, everything they sell at lowes, menards, home depot abosutly sucks. Lots of voids, warped, and the wood feels lighter and not nearly as sturdy. Find a place like homestead hardwoods that acually sells decent plywood if you're going that route. It would even be worth a days drive if nothing else is around you. I have a 17 foot trihull, and its rebuild was around 2500.

If the stringers are rotted, everything else is likly too. I used white oak for my stringers. That may or may not been the best, but I really soaked them with epoxy. Are you planning on a full rebuild, or was the 3000 estimate for someone else just the stringers?

I’m doing my transom next month. I was just guessing on that price because that’s what few people have said. I want to them myself but I’m worried I’ll damage the boat if I replace the stringers on the trailer.

 

[Steelguitarman]

Personally, I would start with replacing the transom. It would really depend on you boat type. And how you want to accomplish the build, are you leaving all of the outside skin complete? Maybe some picture could help to get a solid plan of execution put together

 

[KJM]

3/4 way thru a stringer/floor/transom/ I/O - outboard conversion, all done on trailer. No problems so far. I used cooza for stringers and transom, so it was a bit more expensive but I plan on keeping this boat as long as I can get in it!

 

[buxmj]

I used ACX ply from HD and it was actually better than I thought it would be. If the material ever gets wet and stays wet and keeps absorbing more water, it doesn't matter what you use if it is wood, it will rot. If you do the glass work well and whenever you put a hole in the wood, over drill it, fill it with peanut butter and redrill for needed size, that will keep water away from wood contact and it should last longer than you.

 

[tpenfield]

You can 'hear' all kinds of things in the Internet and elsewhere. If it is a bunk trilar, then it should be fine. A roller trailer, not so much.

However you can add some 'bunk-like' supports to a roller trailer while rebuilding the hull.

 

[jhande]

https://forums.iboats.com/threads/installing-new-decking-question.741701/post-5637096I have a 1967 fiberglass 16 ft boat. Gonna replace the stringers I heard you’re not supposed to do them on the trailer, is this true? I want to do this myself instead of paying someone 3,000 plus. Also how much do you think this will run me

If you're nervous about working the boat on the trailer you could add extra support, replace one stringer at a time.

As far as $3,000 for a DIY on a 16' boat... I don't think it will come even close. I made a quick list of materials and started pricing it out for my rebuild. I have to add a little more fiberglass and resin but not much.

My list: https://forums.iboats.com/threads/installing-new-decking-question.741701/post-5637096

 

[Steelguitarman]

OP, and anyone else that reads this thread. I'm not trying to start fights but take it from people that have acually restored or are in the process of doing so. This project is going to be 2.5 to 3k. I want to be realistic with you. Theres alot of small stuff that goes into that adds up fast, cutting bits and blades, gloves, brushes rollers, hardware, other odds and ends. It all adds up fast. When I first planned my budget I estimated 1500. You start working on it and find something else. I decided to replace the pvc rub rail. Didnt even factor that in or think about it. After shipping youre looking at 75 to 100 bucks. Take it from someone that was planing to half ass it and try and make myself belive it wasn't. I thought about it and really thought., its most likly going to be a one time thing if done right. If its half'ed it'll come apart in no time, stuff will Delaminate, water will get in and start rotting stuff away. Unless you do it right. I used epoxy, and it cost alittle bit more up front, but it is so much more versatile. Because of that I can laminate the deck skin onto the boat. My skin was so heavy it would of took a ton of cloth and resin to do it to the same thickness. No mater what people say, you can not laminate with polyester. You'll need to build it up with cloth to make it right. That cloth sucks up a ton of resin. I imagine it would of took 15 gallons of resin for my boat if I needed to build the deck from scratch. Instead, im using like 6 gal.

32 bucks for a gal of poly? No way. The cheap bondo stuff cost like 40. Decent poly is going to run you 50 to 70 a gal. Dont get plywood based off your total surface area. Most of the time a piece isn't going to fit how you think it will. My boat deck really should of took 1.5 sheets of plywood surface area wise, but you can only put the pieces in a certain way. So I ended up with 3 sheets that were cut down to roughly 4x6. Plus the transom that took 1.5 sheets. So there's 5 sheets right there. Stuff adds up. You'll need a ton of cloth, and one layer of 17 oz cloths isn't going to cut it. Especially with poly. You'll need to build it up, especially in the long term.

Just bear in mind to do it right. Itll add up. And you'll be pissed when you dump a quart of resin. **** happens. Plan for it and good luck on your project

 

[Scott Danforth]

Good poly from a real fiberglass supply house is not only cheaper than a big box store, its a better resin. Fiberglass resin was $21/gal, however it has gone up with the whole resin shortage.

Do not use any big box store resine such as bondo brand. Not only is it more expensive, its a lower grade of resin and it has wax in it

Build some cradle braces on the trailer

If you have to pay someone, you will pay closer to 15,000, not the $3k you think. The $3000 is about what you will pay if you do it yourself. Interior will be another $2k

Go to the stickies at the top of the forum, 4th one down, and go to links 14, 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a and 4b and go thru them in their entirety

 

[buxmj]

I have paid 29$ a gallon for high quality poly resin from a local boat restorer/supplier.

I didn't know anything about boat restoration and now I know some. Keep reading and researching and when you are ready jump right in. There are many people on this site who are awesome at helping, just keep at it and ask questions when you need to.

 

[JASinIL2006]

If you can figure out a way to do it cheaper than $2500-3000, more power tp you. But my experience and that of many others here suggests around $3K is typical.

 

[jhande]

Didn't mean to cause a fuss.

I based my findings on what Steve (tech support) at US Composites had told me. No I didn't add the shipping cost in which will probably be a big chunk of coin. I priced the wood at Home Depot, I believe before the ridiculous price increase of lumber. The fiberglass cloth, poly resin, etc was priced at US Composites.

I'm sure Steve recommended the bare minimum and I'm sure I left a few things out. I didn't price such things as tools, sanding or cutting products, mixing items, etc... I already have lot's of those on hand.

Would I order the bare minimum? No, I realize there will be a lot of waste. Have I ever done such a project? No. I appreciate everyone with experience sharing and helping others with their wisdom. I just can't get my head around what I might have missed that would cost $2,600 more than what's on my list?? I can see probably a few hundred bucks more, but thousands?

EDIT: Just checked, slight price increase at US Composites.

Guess I should just bow out gracefully and let the experienced help others.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Polyester: gallon: Resins, Polyester & Vinylester & Epoxy - Page 1 of 2

Resins, Polyester & Vinylester & Epoxy

www.fgci.com

boatyard resin is still $21/gallon.

 

[todhunter]

OK, so I went through my records and here is the breakdown on what I've spent on the hull restoration for my 18.5 ft boat so far (September 2020 to now). There's undoubtedly some things I've left out, and some things I bought that I didn't need. I've tried to limit this list to hull restoration up through structural repairs only (does not include carpet or anything after getting the decks down), and does not include any spending I've done on the trailer, engine, drive, or anything else. I did include a list of tools I had to buy. I'd say I bought 5 gal too much resin, entirely too much CSM (probably could have gotten away safely with 15 yards), a little too much 1708 (probably could have done with 35 yards), etc. But still...had I not bought the extra cloth and resin, it would have only saved me about $350.

You need to factor in consumables - the price of a box of gloves have skyrocketed (3x the price from a year ago), and you risk buying cheap ones that break easily. I bought 2 boxes of "4 mil" gloves @ $27 per box that turned out to be about 2 mil and were complete garbage - that was a tough lesson. I did a total of 3 separate freight orders from US Composites - had I known what I was getting into, I would have tried to reduce that to 1 or 2 orders.

Anyhow, the grand total for the list below is $4,093.

$2,124 spent at US Composites
$365 spent on wood that went into the boat
$847 spent on consumables

As always, your mileage may vary! Good luck.

Description	Qty	Cost	Total
Polyester resin (5 gal)	7​	128​	896​
1708 cloth (yard)	50​	8​	390​
1.5 oz CSM (yard)	50​	3​	145​
Cabosil (4 gal)	2​	23​	46​
1/4" milled fiber (4 lb)	1​	12​	12​
2lb expanding foam (16 lb kit)	2​	67​	134​
White gelcoat (gal)	2​	46​	92​
MEKP (8 oz)	1​	6​	6​
Surfacing wax (pint)	1​	7​	7​
Freight	1​	139​	139​
Freight	1​	130​	130​
Freight	1​	127​	127​
3/4" ACX plywood	3​	45​	135​
1/2" ACX plywood	3​	53​	159​
Mahogany	1​	71​	71​
Fuel hose conduit & supplies	1​	33​	33​
Garboard drain	1​	13​	13​
Tyvek suit	3​	16​	47​
Flap discs (10 pk)	4​	16​	64​
Oscillating cutter blades (10 pk)	1​	15​	15​
Gloves, 13 mil (50 pk)	3​	25​	75​
Gloves, 4 mil (100 pk)	2​	27​	54​
Gloves, 4 mil (100 pk)	4​	18​	70​
Paint roller trays (10 pk)	3​	10​	31​
Chip brushes (96 pk)	1​	31​	31​
Chip brushes (36 pk)	1​	16​	16​
Bondo paddles (10 pk)	1​	9​	9​
Rollers (10 pk)	6​	20​	119​
Tongue depressors (500 pk)	1​	14​	14​
P100 filter cartridges	2​	23​	45​
80 grit sanding discs (100 pk)	1​	20​	20​
3M 5200 (3 oz)	1​	13​	13​
3M 4200 (3 oz)	1​	15​	15​
Mixing cups (100 pk)	2​	42​	84​
80 grit sand paper for longboard (20 yd)	1​	21​	21​
Painter's plastic	1​	43​	43​
Acetone (gal)	3​	20​	60​
Scissors for cutting fiberglass	1​	28​	28​
Oscillating cutter	1​	75​	75​
Dust collection	1​	196​	196​
Fin roller	1​	18​	18​
Roller handle	1​	3​	3​
Respirator	1​	13​	13​
Sander	1​	97​	97​
Notched trowel	1​	5​	5​
Bar clamps	14​	3​	46​
4-1/8" hole saw	1​	29​	29​
Lumber for building cap stand	1​	200​	200​

 

[JASinIL2006]

OK, so I went through my records and here is the breakdown on what I've spent on the hull restoration for my 18.5 ft boat so far (September 2020 to now). There's undoubtedly some things I've left out, and some things I bought that I didn't need. I've tried to limit this list to hull restoration up through structural repairs only (does not include carpet or anything after getting the decks down), and does not include any spending I've done on the trailer, engine, drive, or anything else. I did include a list of tools I had to buy. I'd say I bought 5 gal too much resin, entirely too much CSM (probably could have gotten away safely with 15 yards), a little too much 1708 (probably could have done with 35 yards), etc. But still...had I not bought the extra cloth and resin, it would have only saved me about $350.

You need to factor in consumables - the price of a box of gloves have skyrocketed (3x the price from a year ago), and you risk buying cheap ones that break easily. I bought 2 boxes of "4 mil" gloves @ $27 per box that turned out to be about 2 mil and were complete garbage - that was a tough lesson. I did a total of 3 separate freight orders from US Composites - had I known what I was getting into, I would have tried to reduce that to 1 or 2 orders.

Anyhow, the grand total for the list below is $4,093.

$2,124 spent at US Composites
$365 spent on wood that went into the boat
$847 spent on consumables

As always, your mileage may vary! Good luck.

Description	Qty	Cost	Total
Polyester resin (5 gal)	7​	128​	896​
1708 cloth (yard)	50​	8​	390​
1.5 oz CSM (yard)	50​	3​	145​
Cabosil (4 gal)	2​	23​	46​
1/4" milled fiber (4 lb)	1​	12​	12​
2lb expanding foam (16 lb kit)	2​	67​	134​
White gelcoat (gal)	2​	46​	92​
MEKP (8 oz)	1​	6​	6​
Surfacing wax (pint)	1​	7​	7​
Freight	1​	139​	139​
Freight	1​	130​	130​
Freight	1​	127​	127​
3/4" ACX plywood	3​	45​	135​
1/2" ACX plywood	3​	53​	159​
Mahogany	1​	71​	71​
Fuel hose conduit & supplies	1​	33​	33​
Garboard drain	1​	13​	13​
Tyvek suit	3​	16​	47​
Flap discs (10 pk)	4​	16​	64​
Oscillating cutter blades (10 pk)	1​	15​	15​
Gloves, 13 mil (50 pk)	3​	25​	75​
Gloves, 4 mil (100 pk)	2​	27​	54​
Gloves, 4 mil (100 pk)	4​	18​	70​
Paint roller trays (10 pk)	3​	10​	31​
Chip brushes (96 pk)	1​	31​	31​
Chip brushes (36 pk)	1​	16​	16​
Bondo paddles (10 pk)	1​	9​	9​
Rollers (10 pk)	6​	20​	119​
Tongue depressors (500 pk)	1​	14​	14​
P100 filter cartridges	2​	23​	45​
80 grit sanding discs (100 pk)	1​	20​	20​
3M 5200 (3 oz)	1​	13​	13​
3M 4200 (3 oz)	1​	15​	15​
Mixing cups (100 pk)	2​	42​	84​
80 grit sand paper for longboard (20 yd)	1​	21​	21​
Painter's plastic	1​	43​	43​
Acetone (gal)	3​	20​	60​
Scissors for cutting fiberglass	1​	28​	28​
Oscillating cutter	1​	75​	75​
Dust collection	1​	196​	196​
Fin roller	1​	18​	18​
Roller handle	1​	3​	3​
Respirator	1​	13​	13​
Sander	1​	97​	97​
Notched trowel	1​	5​	5​
Bar clamps	14​	3​	46​
4-1/8" hole saw	1​	29​	29​
Lumber for building cap stand	1​	200​	200​

That's a pretty comprehensive list, and it should prove useful for folks who are heading into restoration, esp. during COVID times.

 

[gm280]

I initially started to keep up with the cost to rebuild my little tri-hull project. But that quickly got side tracked as I'm sure others have as well. But that was back when lumber prices and polyester costs were lower then today.

If you are going to do your boat and not drag it out like myself, and so many others seem to have done, then the cost is pretty much up-front. But since I did my project over YEARS, the cost didn't bite as bad. You don't notice a little here and there after the years. But either way, DON'T cut corners if you jump into this project. If you rebuild correctly, the boat will be yours to hand down to other family members and still be solid as a rock. You are not looking for a cheap build and let the buyer beware scheme as most boat builders/manufacturers did...a least I hope not!.