Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

[Mav]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Hi Plaz,
When i ripped the deck up there was lots of water soaked foam blocks which were not attached to the hull. I've been reading around on the forums and find that a lot of people don't bother to put foam back in when replacing the deck. Maybe i will do the same as they hold water and hence add weight. However it might be required by law in your area.

Yes the deck was resting on the high spots on the hull nearest to the walls. The stringers and ribs gave support in between.

I am wondering how much water might get under the deck. Maybe i should put holes in the stingers and ribs to allow drainage to the splash well. These holes would need to be sealed somehow so the wood doesn't rot. I noted some drainholes in the most forward rib under the cap. I guess the foams was meant to soak it up.

Mav
Mav

 

[Mav]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Opps
Posted it twice
bugger

 

[monk-monk]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Plaz...be very careful removing the old plywood deck...on the glastron v models (those with aqua-lift) the original wood decking steps in mid-way back the boat...I was removing my old decking and ran the circular saw to far to the back of the boat and to close to the outside wall and i cut right through my hull...the aqua-lifts are a tricky hull to work with...BE CAREFUL!

 

[plaz]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Thanks, one of my favorite old bands.Lol




The same as using plywood with out the concern of making sure everything is well sealed as there is nothing there to rot if it gets wet. The fiber glassing i will do is solely for strength. I really do hate working with wood and have no plans on doing it again.

Worse yet is the itch i have from the fiberglass while removing the transom. Never again i tell ya.

mine too, they can still rock.
you got me thinking to use composite boards for keel, stringers and crossbracing, If fiberglass will bond to it I will use it for the deck, but only around perimeter and joints. Should make for a pretty good seal and as you mentioned nothing to rot. Have you started project yet? Plaz

 

[plaz]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Plaz...be very careful removing the old plywood deck...on the glastron v models (those with aqua-lift) the original wood decking steps in mid-way back the boat...I was removing my old decking and ran the circular saw to far to the back of the boat and to close to the outside wall and i cut right through my hull...the aqua-lifts are a tricky hull to work with...BE CAREFUL!

Monk-Monk,
I started in the middle of the boat to expose keel board ans splines and than worked my way out. Floor was so rotted it came out by just using utility knif.
Yes sir that bow area was trickey though, ran circular saw against perimeter and peeled off small pieces about 2 hrs. to complete. Thanks for the heads up. Plaz

 

[plaz]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Hey Mav,
Been reading the same thing, I saw some pics with blown foam between the spleens, stringers or what ever you want to call them. I think I am going to get a 3inch perforated pipe that the use in drainage ditchs, cut it in half lengthwise and place the cut side toward the hull(tunnel effect) and than place blown foam on top of that. This will give me some bouancy as well as a channel for water to escape to the bilge pump resevoir. I heard liquid rubber works good on sealing the sides of holes. It is used to dip hand tool handles in to give you a better grip. Just use a small brush and paint it on 2-3 coats is recommended. Plaz

 

[monk-monk]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Well, unfortunately i started core drilling the deck towards the front of the boat to determine where the rotting started and where the good wood was, but i didn't realize that the deck wood actually steps in at the last third of the deck...so i started out cutting wood but then cut right through the hull because the wood stepped inward at the back...talk about getting a sinking feeling...when i lifted that saw out and seen daylight..!!

 

[plaz]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Monk-Monk
That would have taken the wind out of my sails> was the opening big or was it still patchable. I have everything out and powerwashed now. Giving it the weekend to dry out, then going to install wood and glass Not trying to get ahead of myself any suggestions for painting the hull. Got some spider cracking at transom and some at topside at the bow. Best wat to remedy? Sand, prime and paint or should I use bondo to flash patch first. Project is going better than expected. Won't be in the water for the 4th but certainly the weekend after. Plaz Still working on posting some pix, not enough time in the day.

 

[WacoV156]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Plaz...be very careful removing the old plywood deck...on the glastron v models (those with aqua-lift) the original wood decking steps in mid-way back the boat...I was removing my old decking and ran the circular saw to far to the back of the boat and to close to the outside wall and i cut right through my hull...the aqua-lifts are a tricky hull to work with...BE CAREFUL!

monk-monk,
Did you have good luck fixing your hull? I did the same thing a few months ago taking the floor out of my 72 V-156. Haven't tackled fixing it yet, just added it to the list of things to figure out and fix.

Cheers

 

[plaz]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Monk-Monk or Mav.
Have either of you installed your decks yet? What size marine plywood did you use,
3/8th or 1/2 inch and did you piece it around the bow and below near the transom?
That bow area was trickey and I cant see no other way but to install in sections with some extra support. Did anyone notice a 3/8th piece of copper tubing under the bow?
Looks like some type of drain but I can't get my head in a position to see up there.

 

[Mav]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Hey Plaz,
I'm only up to building the new stringers, i changed my mind and am using Exterior construction ply instead of marine, a lot cheaper and uses the same waterproof glue. Other members here also use the same stuff. For the floor i use 17mm ply, which is about 3/4 inch. For the stringers attach two strips of ply together making them 34mm thick. This will allow me to bevel the top edges using a router so the fiberglass will wrap around them easier. I might use your idea of a half tube then sealed for drainage under the stringers.

There was a pool of water in the bow compartment with no drainage and cant see no copper tubes.

Here's some pix of work so far.

Mav

 

[plaz]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Mav,
Thanks for the pics, I see that you cut out all the fiberglass around the perimeter of the boat. That answers my question of thickness of the deck. I thought I was going to have to try and place the plywood under the existing lip and deck, How did you remove it from the transom area, this area is pretty tight to work in. Did you use chisel to remove fiberglass from sides or just a grinder. Exterior ply seems the way to go. Not for anything but can new decking be placed over the top of existing fiberglass as long as the existing is reinforced underneath?

 

[Mav]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Plaz,
I used a hammer and chisel to remove all the old fiberglass. Hint, flip the chisel upside down. I guess you could put the deck over existing ply as long as it isn't delaminated and is solid. if you intend to glue to the fiberglass, ruff up the surface with a grinder for better adhesion.
Mav

 

[plaz]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Mav,
I decided to do it the proper way and cut out all the glass. One last question, how did you get the proper Arch on the stringers and keel boards, especially at the bow end, starting from the seat area to the bow seat area? I was thinking of holding a 1x6 against the outside of the hull and tracing it on to the board, cut it out and than retracing on to my stringers. Any suggestions? Plaz

 

[Mav]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Hi Plaz
My new stringers are joining to the old ones at the edge of the cap. the old stringers are in reasonable condition there, they were mainly rotten towards the stern. if you wanted to replace the whole length, the cap would need to be taken off. To get the shape of the hull onto my stringers, i suspended the stringers level with the floor and used the post and scribe method same as 'oops' here
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=234392&highlight=Fiberglass&page=8
I used an adjustable jigsaw to cut the shape and angle all at once.
good luck
Mav

 

[plaz]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Hey Mav,
how is your project coming along? noticed some rot in transom so I made a motor stand, removed motor and bit the bullit and took off the top. All three were relatively eazy. Going to remove all wood from transom and make a new one out of ply. Getting list ready for all my resin and glass needs. Used T-square and straight edge method to scribe my stringers worked pretty well, they are cut and spliced waiting for a coat of resin. Hope you are making progress, The question part of the project is pretty much over it's time to get in third gear and stare re-constructing.
Peace out, Phil

 

[Mav]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Hey Plaz
I ended up removing the cap as well. It came off easier than expected. I glued in the stringers last weekend and will glass over them this weekend. The transom seems solid so i will leave that. I think it will handle a 70 Hp 2-stroke weighing about 180kg. I don't know if i need a short shaft or long shaft.

You should post some pic so i can compare.
Mav

 

[plaz]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Mav,
Mine is in a lot worse condition than yours. Sometimes debating on whether to take a chain saw to it and put it out of it's misery. Just don't have the heart to do it though. So I continue. Havn't worked on boat recently, had some house projects and needed to spend some time with the wife over the weekend. A little bike riding and kyaking at a nearby lake. Will post some pics shortly. I have a 1990 Evinrude 50 horse with 10 hrs of watertime. Pretty pristine. What is your opinion on hull repair? Replace stringers and transom first or should I flip hull over and repair and paint then flip back over to replace new stringers and transom.?

Peace Out, Plaz

 

[Mav]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Hey Plaz
Im going to replace the stringers and deck before i flip the hull to patch and paint. I think the hull needs the structural support of the deck before i flip it. At least painting will be easier with the cap off. What were you going to use in the way of paint? I would like to use 2 pac but might need a professional to do it with the right equipment.

Mav

 

[plaz]

Re: Replace deck on A 1968 GLASSTRON V156 TRI HULL

Mav,

I think you are right, I am going to do the same. Debating whether to use seacast in transom or make out of plywood? Transom is smaller than I thought. No real thought on paint yet, but I do know I am not going to restore it to stock condition. Topside might be light blue or navy blue/metalflake the sides which are not in water mother of pearl(white or powder blue) and the bottom which is in water Brite white. Hopefully my friend who has a bodyshop will spray it for me for a reasonable cost. If not I will paint myself using Brite paint. Seems like a lot of boaters on this site use the Brite brand.
Peace Out
Plaz