Removing impeller

Status
Not open for further replies.

Tafflad

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 23, 2007
Messages
536
It would be too difficult to remove pump at full arm stretch .... fingertips can only just reach the pump.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,064
Feel your pain, I have to hang up side down over the motor to get to mine
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,674
Why do they have to make a simple job like this, so difficult? On my old Cobra its a 15 min job! Impeller kit is $40! for OEM parts...
On these the impeller housing is at the tail end of the upper gear housing, 3 bolts you remove a plastic cover, 3 more bolts and its off.
 

Attachments

  • Cobra Impeller (2).JPG
    Cobra Impeller (2).JPG
    1.2 MB · Views: 7
  • 3-2009, 4-2009 030.JPG
    3-2009, 4-2009 030.JPG
    1.1 MB · Views: 7

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,064
Why do they have to make a simple job like this, so difficult? On my old Cobra its a 15 min job! Impeller kit is $40! for OEM parts...
On these the impeller housing is at the tail end of the upper gear housing, 3 bolts you remove a plastic cover, 3 more bolts and its off.
Don't know what a OMC has anything to do with current issue
 

muc

"Retired" Association of Marine Technicians...
Joined
Jul 7, 2004
Messages
2,144
Maybe ask your dealer to look at this parts bulletin? It's from March 2006

Parts Bulletin AB Volvo Penta
P-08-2 1 01
Group Number Version

Impeller Removal Tool Models: D3, 32-300, TAMD63, Gas 3.0, 4.3, 5.0, 5.7, 8.1

Tool P/N 3843948 fits D3. It also fits current gas engines with specification numbers higher than 3869300. The removal tool 3843948 is included in D3 on board kit 3841043.

NOTE! Early impellers do not have the threads for the tool. At the first impeller change the tool can not be used. All replacement impellers from Parts have threads. After the early impellers have been replaced the tool can be used on all listed engines.
 

Tafflad

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 23, 2007
Messages
536
Maybe ask your dealer to look at this parts bulletin? It's from March 2006

Parts Bulletin AB Volvo Penta
P-08-2 1 01
Group Number Version

Impeller Removal Tool Models: D3, 32-300, TAMD63, Gas 3.0, 4.3, 5.0, 5.7, 8.1

Tool P/N 3843948 fits D3. It also fits current gas engines with specification numbers higher than 3869300. The removal tool 3843948 is included in D3 on board kit 3841043.

NOTE! Early impellers do not have the threads for the tool. At the first impeller change the tool can not be used. All replacement impellers from Parts have threads. After the early impellers have been replaced the tool can be used on all listed engines.
I'll ask them now
 

Tafflad

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 23, 2007
Messages
536
Maybe ask your dealer to look at this parts bulletin? It's from March 2006

Parts Bulletin AB Volvo Penta
P-08-2 1 01
Group Number Version

Impeller Removal Tool Models: D3, 32-300, TAMD63, Gas 3.0, 4.3, 5.0, 5.7, 8.1

Do you by any chance know what thread is on the 'screw-in bolt' ? ... if I know what the thread is I could make the tool easy enough. The second of the 2 videos mentions an M16 Fine bolt, but not sure if this is for this impeller.
 

muc

"Retired" Association of Marine Technicians...
Joined
Jul 7, 2004
Messages
2,144
OH NO
I'm giving outdated advise.
The parts bulletin I listed has been modified by a
service bulletin 04-2-80 Dated 04-2015

Currently there is no Volvo Penta special tool for this application. Use Sherwood™ impeller tool 25105, or similar (¾”-16 thread).

Sorry for any trouble I might have caused.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,674
Don't know what a OMC has anything to do with current issue
the issue is that some designers make it easier on mechanics/owners some do not. Since Volvo has been using these types of pumps for many years you'd think they'd figure out a way to make it easier. The difficulty in servicing I/Os and the availability of modern outboards that are not difficult to service will eventually push I/Os out of the market unless they do something about these service annoyances. Its already happening in most coastal regions. Once someone has had a modern outboard going back to a sterndrive is not likely. Pulling out seats for normal maintenance, worrying about bellows leaking, etc. I/Os made sense when the engines were simple carbed GM engines, without complex EFI systems and cat converters and outboards were loud smoky 2 strokes. That all has changed. If they want to keep selling these things then its time for the OEMs to start paying attention to the market. I can see a continued market for diesel I/Os but not so much for gas I/Os.

The dealer tells you to remove it and then, they are no help in getting the right tool to do what they recommend, that's what I mean....
 
Last edited:

Tafflad

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 23, 2007
Messages
536
OH NO
I'm giving outdated advise.
The parts bulletin I listed has been modified by a
service bulletin 04-2-80 Dated 04-2015

Currently there is no Volvo Penta special tool for this application. Use Sherwood™ impeller tool 25105, or similar (¾”-16 thread).

Sorry for any trouble I might have caused.
Don't apologise ...... FYI just had parts supplier get the tool of shelf and try it in the impeller - and it was too small (far to loose)
The 3/4"-16 thread is interesting all the other parts related to pump have been Metric.
Guess I need to find a 3/4"-16 UNF machine screw.

The Sherwood tool is just in effect a plastic screw, that screws up against end of the shaft, so a short hex head machine screw should do the same thing.
 

Tafflad

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 23, 2007
Messages
536
I thought it was more confusion - there is a Sherwood 25105 and also a Sherwood 25106 the latter aligns with the video M16 Fine comment

On checking the 25105 is as you state above 3/4"-16 UNF and that would have for a female thread a minor diameter of 0.6823" .... which is equal to 17.33 mm - almost the same as I measured.
So looks like I will try and find a 3/4"-16 UNF machine screw tomorrow - UNF & UNC not that common in UK, but at least I have something to look for.

If it does not screw out easily ... at a push I could drill a hole down the centre of screw. And tap it for a 10mm screw, put a slight point on the end and use that as a puller.
 

dypcdiver

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
1,039
Hi Taff, As the previous versions of the Volvo pumps were manufactured by Johnson Pumps of Sweden, I would expect them to have supplied your pump too at a guess. Below is a nicked page from Johnson Pumps catalogue which might just be relevant.

puller.JPG
 

dypcdiver

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
1,039
SPX Flow Technology
Nastagatan 19, P.O. Box 1436, SE-701 14 Örebro, SWEDEN
1625 Hunter Road, Suite B, Hanover Park, Illinois, 60133, USA
300 Wellington Rd, Mulgrave, Victoria 3170, AUSTRALIA
For more information about our worldwide locations, approvals, certifications, and local representatives, please visit
www.johnson-pump.com/jpmarine or www.spx.com
SPX Corporation reserves the right to incorporate our latest design and material changes without notice or obligation. Design features,
materials of construction and dimensional data, as described in this bulletin, are provided for your information only and should not be relied
upon unless confirmed in writing.
Issued: 10/2011 JP-2012/01 EN Copyright © 2011 SPX Corporation
 

Tafflad

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 23, 2007
Messages
536
It's possible ..... but I would need to know which puller has a thread of 3/4-16
I did try those part numbers on-line and nothing shows.
It's a chicken & egg situation for me ..... once I have impeller off I can measure etc on the bench - until then not so easy.
Annoying Volvo do not produce a tool yet advise its needed.
 

BRICH1260

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
1,371
Can you just remove the brass pump from the hoses and bring in the garage. Then try several bolts and find one to fit the threads. Once you have a bolt that will fit, put the pump housing in a padded vice and pull on the bolt, wiggle a bit if necessary, and pull the impeller out. I`ve never known them to be that tight.
 

Tafflad

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 23, 2007
Messages
536
Guys - success ..... obtained a 3/4-16 UNF machine screw, this screws into the end of the impeller, and on tightening brought impeller out about 1/2"
Then by levering with a small pry bar between spanner & housing the impeller came out.
I will put a threaded M10 hole through the center of the 3/4" screw, and then I can screw in an M10 machine screw to pull out impeller - easier job next year.
Interesting, the engine only been standing still for 1 week - and look at the set in the vanes ..... they did straighten out after about an Hr ...... so maybe taking it out over winter is a good idea.
 

Attachments

  • Impeller-2.jpg
    Impeller-2.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 8
  • Impeller.jpg
    Impeller.jpg
    4.6 MB · Views: 14
Last edited by a moderator:

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
12,674
Guys - success ..... obtained a 3/4-16 UNF machine screw, this screws into the end of the impeller, and on tightening brought impeller out about 1/2"
Then by levering with a small pry bar between spanner & housing the impeller came out.
I will put a threaded M10 hole through the centre of the 3/8" screw, and then I can screw in an M10 machine screw to pull out impeller - easier job next year.
Interesting, the engine only been standing still for 1 week - and look at the set in the vanes ..... they did straighten out after about an Hr ...... so maybe taking it out over winter is a good idea.
nice job you made your own tool!
necessity is the mother of invention...
 

Tafflad

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 23, 2007
Messages
536
A follow up Q for those that have worked on this style water pump.
As well as main o-ring. There are also 4 x small O-ring for the cover plate fixings.

I assume you push screws through the plate, and fit onto the screws pushing onto back of plate, then fit .... would keep o-rings close to top of holds.

Only other option is to push o-rings into casting hole, but these would then be pushed down to bottom of hole by o-ring.


Any comment ?
 

dypcdiver

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
1,039
Hi Taff
Can you edit your post to avoid confusion, I think you meant 3/4" not 3/8" Dia.

I would think the small "O" rings should have stayed on the screws, so that they didn't fall out into the bilge.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top