Remove Deck carpet to fiberglass

Jgcrock99

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May 14, 2018
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I have a 1995 Chaparral 1930 SS 19' runabout. Just wondering if it's worth my time. In all honesty the carpeted deck is in pretty awesome condition especially considering the age of the boat. I was thinking of ripping out the carpet and sanding the deck or adding a thin layer of plywood and glassing over it, anti-skid, gelcoat, the works. My next boat will have a fiberglass deck but not sure when that will be. Mainly want to do it because I want a fiberglass deck because I know they are superior to the old carpeted plywood decks. Just wondering if it's worth it to go through the process. Thanks in advance
 

tpenfield

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It would be best to determine the condition of the current plywood deck, keeping in mind that it is 26 years old.

If the deck is in bad shape it probably means what is below it is not so good either . . .
 

Scott Danforth

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I have a 1995 Chaparral 1930 SS 19' runabout. Just wondering if it's worth my time. In all honesty the carpeted deck is in pretty awesome condition especially considering the age of the boat. I was thinking of ripping out the carpet and sanding the deck or adding a thin layer of plywood and glassing over it, anti-skid, gelcoat, the works. My next boat will have a fiberglass deck but not sure when that will be. Mainly want to do it because I want a fiberglass deck because I know they are superior to the old carpeted plywood decks. Just wondering if it's worth it to go through the process. Thanks in advance
your chap has a fiberglass deck with carpet over it. most boats with carpet do

only aluminum boats and wooden boat ever had bare wood decks

if your deck is soft, it rotted from underneath. that means your transom and stringers are shot and the flotation foam is waterlogged
 

JASinIL2006

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I have a 1995 Chaparral 1930 SS 19' runabout. Just wondering if it's worth my time. In all honesty the carpeted deck is in pretty awesome condition especially considering the age of the boat. I was thinking of ripping out the carpet and sanding the deck or adding a thin layer of plywood and glassing over it, anti-skid, gelcoat, the works. My next boat will have a fiberglass deck but not sure when that will be. Mainly want to do it because I want a fiberglass deck because I know they are superior to the old carpeted plywood decks. Just wondering if it's worth it to go through the process. Thanks in advance

Assuming the deck below the carpet is sound (see comments above), removing the carpet would be quite a pain. Pulling out the carpet itself is not so bad, but the adhesive is probably quite hard by now and impervious to any solvents, so it's very likely you'll be grinding the entire deck (and any other places that were carpeted, like the gunwales) to get to clean fiberglass or wood. That will not be an insignificant amount of work, and after that, you get to fiberglass the deck (most likely) and then figure out how coat it with something protective and nonskid, like paint or gelcoat.

To me, that seems like a lot of work, especially if you're uncertain of the condition of structure under the deck. Removing the carpet is certainly doable, but not easy.
 

Jgcrock99

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May 14, 2018
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your chap has a fiberglass deck with carpet over it. most boats with carpet do

only aluminum boats and wooden boat ever had bare wood decks

if your deck is soft, it rotted from underneath. that means your transom and stringers are shot and the flotation foam is waterlogged
Thank you, no soft spots, really in good condition just a preference/updating type of activity. It's a burgundy carpet and gets unbelievably hot in the sun. Not the end of the world to wear shoes on the boat but I have little kids that are in the boat and have them in shoes or put towels down etc. To keep them from getting scalded.
 

Jgcrock99

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Assuming the deck below the carpet is sound (see comments above), removing the carpet would be quite a pain. Pulling out the carpet itself is not so bad, but the adhesive is probably quite hard by now and impervious to any solvents, so it's very likely you'll be grinding the entire deck (and any other places that were carpeted, like the gunwales) to get to clean fiberglass or wood. That will not be an insignificant amount of work, and after that, you get to fiberglass the deck (most likely) and then figure out how coat it with something protective and nonskid, like paint or gelcoat.

To me, that seems like a lot of work, especially if you're uncertain of the condition of structure under the deck. Removing the carpet is certainly doable, but not easy.
Thank you. Been watching some videos and was planning to do everything with laminating gelcoat with softsand and finishing gelcoat. Never done it before but seems within my wheelhouse. What about some 1/4" underlayment type board glued, screwed and then glassed over? Could even resin both sides before install. May not take it on but I knew this was the place to come for pros and cons, thanks again!
 

JASinIL2006

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What would you be laying the 1/4" board over? The carpet glue left behind after pulling the carpeting? That might work, if you troweled on a layer of thickened polyester resin (aka 'peanut butter') to fill gaps/inconsistencies and to act as an adhesive. I'm not sure there is much value in just applying resin to the wood; by itself, resin is very brittle and without glass it would just crack and provide a path for water to infiltrate your 1/4" skin on the deck.

If you went this way, I'd PB the plywood in, bedding it thickened resin applied with a 3/8" notched flooring trowel, then I'd glass over the top of the new layer with CSM, followed by gelcoat with your nonskid stuff.
 

Scott Danforth

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why add a layer of wood that can rot?

what is the point?

pull the carpet up

put a wire cup brush in the angle grinder, don on a full face shield and tyvek suit and remove the adhesive. you will be done in about 4 hours

then go over the scar'd up gel with a trowel of thickened gel (gel and fumed silica), let it start to set, then roll over it with a bed-liner roller to pull a texture.
 

JASinIL2006

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I don't know, Scott, I can kind of see it... the carpet glue residue left behind on my boat would not yield to a wire brush. It was hard as heck and had to be ground out with 60 grit disks.

I do think your idea is superior in that it doesn't add weight or an extra layer, but depending on what sort of adhesive was used, he could be in for quite a bit of grinding to get out the old stuff before he could lay glass.
 

Scott Danforth

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there is always 40 grit and a DA. its what I used to strip the gel coat down to the fiberglass to re-apply gel
 

buxmj

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Jun 9, 2018
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I used a cheap small belt sander from HF. I think it still sells around $35. Don't use HF belts, go on Amazon and get the good stuff. The adhesive was rock hard but comes off with the 36 grit belts.
 

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Jgcrock99

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May 14, 2018
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why add a layer of wood that can rot?

what is the point?

pull the carpet up

put a wire cup brush in the angle grinder, don on a full face shield and tyvek suit and remove the adhesive. you will be done in about 4 hours

then go over the scar'd up gel with a trowel of thickened gel (gel and fumed silica), let it start to set, then roll over it with a bed-liner roller to pull a texture.
I understand your warning and was just thinking through ways to be the most efficient. was hoping not to have to take a grinder to the whole floor and just wanted to have a plan in place ahead of time. What about a closed cell foam board as a smooth base for the fiberglass? It would be lighter and also never rot. My floor now is plywood core so that's why my mind went that direction.
 

Scott Danforth

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I understand your warning and was just thinking through ways to be the most efficient. was hoping not to have to take a grinder to the whole floor and just wanted to have a plan in place ahead of time. What about a closed cell foam board as a smooth base for the fiberglass? It would be lighter and also never rot. My floor now is plywood core so that's why my mind went that direction.
Resin doesnt stick to foam board.

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