regulator / rectifier problem...

ChrisQ

Cadet
Thread starter
Joined
May 14, 2008
Messages
6
Quick background... Replacing the tach on a '98 Evinrude 115 60 degree looper and found that the tach signal at idle to be 5.5vac but any bump to the throttle and it drops to nothing and oscillates back and forth giving no reading on the tach since it is essentially a zero voltage RMS level. Also found that the charging system is not charging. Traced both of these signals back to the regulator/rectifier. Checked 12v to the rectifier (purple wire) and it is fine throughout the throttle range, never dropping off. Then checked power coming from the charge coil/stator. It is about 24vac at idle then increases proportionally with an increase in throttle. Before I order a new regulator/rectifier I just wanted an expert opinion to confirm my findings as I am an electronics tech and not a mechanic. Given that I have what appears to be good voltage coming into the regulator from the charge coil, plus 12vdc to the regulator circuitry and a very erratic tach signal coming out as well as no charge current (12.2 volts with engine at idle measured at the battery) I would assume that the problem must be the regulator/rectifier. Can one of you expert mechanics please confirm this for me so I can order the part :)
MANY thanks in advance...
Chris
 

Barnacle_Bill

Admiral
Joined
Feb 8, 2004
Messages
6,469
Re: regulator / rectifier problem...

Sounds like one of the diodes in the rectifier is breakingdown and killing your tach signal from the stator. Test your stator according to your manual while you have it disconnected.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: regulator / rectifier problem...

(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those water cooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35 ampere charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

Remove that gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.
 
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