Quit on the Water!

[JohnnyGuy]

The rubbing arm is longer because they're worn down on the old ones. Yeah, .020 gets you in the ball park. There is a youtube that shows how to set the points to the gnats ass using an ohm meter and marks on the flywheel.

This is the video I originally found and used as a base:

Last Christmas I got a new multimeter that includes an audible noise to indicate continuity. This allows me to focus completely on the timing marks on the flywheel as I rotate it and I know exactly where it is in relation to the marks on the armature plate when continuity breaks (points open, buzzing from multimeter stops), instead of looking back and forth between the flywheel and the multimeter.
Setting points gap at 0.020 will definitely get you close. For the little bit of extra effort I feel much better about the accuracy with this method, but "there's more than one way to skin a cat" and to each their own.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Not to brag, but I've got a multimeter and a dwell tach. I've never yet seen a time when I rechecked hand set points and found them off even a hair. Seems if you take your time and get the gap right there is nothing to be gained by messing with the meters. Just my experience. Going to button in back up today and see what I got. Luckily I slept on it and did a bit more research. Found out that the flat springs actually go under the brass clips. Duh. Was wondering what the heck they do. Something else interesting I turned up was that there is considerable disagreement over WHERE to set the rub arm. Some say to put it right on the key. Others say to use the TOP or SET word. Another guy says look closely there is an actual arrow in the little rectangle that says TOP on it. I have the TOP word on mine and also I do see that little arrow now. I guess am back to just making sure I'm at the absolute high spot on the cam and none of the rest really matters. Plan to double check it today. I just set points on a McCulloch which has no markings at all and it's running really well, so guess back to square one. Doing things the way that makes the most sense. Is my thinking correct on this?

 

[Chris1956]

Not knowing where on the cam to set the point gap is precisely why using the ohmmeter to set them is a good idea. Wear of the cam and point rub block is also another good idea to use the ohmmeter to set the points. Don't forget to install the oilers.

 

[LaqueRatt]

I understand that, but the feeler gauge itself will tell you when you're on the high point of the cam. As you spin it, if you find a spot where the feeler is loose, well that's the true high spot and time to readjust.

Not clear on the oiler thing. Are those the same as wicks? There were none in it when I pulled the flywheel, but I did find what might have been the remains of one. It was just floating around inside. The new points came with two rather large pieces of felt, but I don't see anywhere they can be attached. Can I just apply a small amount of grease to the cam or do I need to figure out what do do with these oilers you speak of? I'd like to use them if they will fit, but I don't think they will. At least not without trimming them down or something.

The package with the points also has a piece of black stuff about the size of a postage stamp. No idea what that's for either.

 

[Dave1027]

I believe the wick is normally held in by a small bracket under one of the coils. https://maxrules.com/graphics/tuneups/coilinstall.jpg
I trimmed down the wick when I did mine.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Thanks for the pic. That felt piece looks just like the one that came in the kit. I don't have a bracket like that though. Guess I could make one, but think I'll just lube the cam and call it good. I don't think this motor will ever see a lot of hours as long as I have it. I live on a small lake and am just really interested in fishing.

 

[racerone]

Some will argue all day long.-----Using the meter will get you the strongest spark at the right time..-----Learned how to do that over 50 years ago at a Johnson dealer.-----That shop is still in business today !

 

[RBoyd1971]

I know how to set points precisely with a feeler gage and I still use the multimeter. It does make a difference. I have motors I can crank by spinning the flywheel with my hand. I like precision and that's what the multimeter does

 

[Crosbyman]

 

[LaqueRatt]

All my previous experiences with points have been on cars and bikes, but when I've checked with a dwell meter I've always found them to be dead nuts perfect. Maybe I'm amazing. Or just lucky. I'd bet anybody here a 6 pack though that I got those points perfect with the feeler gauge. Just different ways to accomplish the same thing I'd say. For the record the points were not dead perfect on this motor, yet it started with one pull every time after simply cleaning the carb. Not trying to start an argument, just reporting what I've observed. I do appreciate all the input though and if I find this motor does not start easily and idle nicely I'll try the multimeter thing. Right now I just want to not waste any more time as the summer will be over soon and who cares how it runs when the lake is frozen, eh? LOL

 

[LaqueRatt]

Just for the heck of it I made a small mark on the top of the cam where the top cylinder was at .020. Spun it around to the other side and it lined up perfectly. So 180* separation. I can see how some like the other method which may actually be easier, but this seems to work just fine if you got the patience for it. BTW, I checked for spark and WOW! What a difference! I've never seen spark so strong or jump so far. I kept hearing how it should jump a 1/4" easily and it sure does that now. Ran out of time today, so no barrel test, but I'm pretty confident she's going to be good to go. Also corrected a defect in my compression gauge and now I've got 120 lbs in both cylinders. Doesn't get much better than that I don't think. Finally looks like am having a little luck.

 

[LaqueRatt]

So this is what new spark plugs look after 10 mins in my motor. New coils are on the way. At least it died in the barrel this time and not on the lake.

 

[jimmbo]

I recall in the late 50s OMC put an Access Hole in the Flywheels of the 35hps, which helped locating the Points, where they would be fully open, and allowed adjustment without taking the Flywheel off. They later did away wth that and put some Ridges on the Armature Plate where a special Timing Tool/Marker could be lined up with. Here the Points were Adjusted, so Continuity through the Points would be broken at this location. More Precise for getting the Timing correct

 

[racerone]

The ridges were always on the magneto plate as far as I know.------Yes the 3 , 5.5 , 7.5 , 10 and 18 had an access hole for maintaining the points.-----Great stuff and simple.-----But folks today do not want motors that you have to work on.-----They want " pull the rope / turn the key and go !

 

[jimmbo]

I don't recall seeing an Access Hole on our 64 5.5, I do remember it on the 57 35. The 63 40hp didn't have it either. Only time I saw the Points on that engine was when the Flywheel came loose, and lifted off the Crank

 

[racerone]

The 5.5 model had the inspection hole from 1955 to 1964.----Very common on all those motors back then !!

 

[LaqueRatt]

Interesting. Must have been hard to adjust them through a slot though right? Maybe that's why they stopped doing it. So easy to pop off the flywheel, and it's not super easy to get those points exact. I'd pull the flywheel anyway I think.

 

[racerone]

Yes , but keep in mind if your were on a fishing trip you would only need 1 screwdriver to look at the breaker points.

 

[LaqueRatt]

But then what? Is there room for a feeler gauge, that you may not have along, or to clean them up? Seems to me you'd be SOL just the same.....LOL

 

[racerone]

Simple question ---Have you ever worked on one of these motors with the inspection port ??-----Are you saying that Johnson / Evinrude was clueless in the 50's and 60's----Note---- there is lots of room for a feeler gauge.-----Or some can eyeball 0.020" to finish a fishing trip !