Quit on the Water!

[LaqueRatt]

Thanks boat bros. Think I'm going with OMC coils and Sierra points and condensers.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Thanks boat bros. Think I'm going with OMC coils and Sierra points and condensers.

Okay, and I hope that all works for you. There was another recent post on here where a guy bought both points from Evinrude and sierra. Both of them were not built to the proper specification and he was combining the two. Hope that doesn't happen to you.

 

[jimmbo]

Part numbers should be easy. But I'm confused. Earlier you brought up a link to a 1975 9.9 then Jimbo sent you a 65 sportstwin. Send me your model number and I will send you a link to the parts with parts numbers.

I sent the parts diagram for a 65 18hp Fastwin
This is the link

Evinrude Magneto Group Parts for 1965 18hp 18503 Outboard Motor

Online inventory of Evinrude 18503 Magneto Group parts for 1965 18hp outboard motors. Buy a genuine OEM or aftermarket part.

www.marineengine.com

 

[LaqueRatt]

Are you saying coils and points should all be the same brand? Or that the guy got defective points, mixed brands maybe? Haven't ordered yet, but sure would suck if the new parts weren't any good. Doesn't look like OMC makes points anymore, so got to use something. A different brand maybe?

Jimmbo, that does look like my motor, thanks. Only thing puzzling me is looks like the plug wires are held in by screws coming up from underneath the round plate, so, I guess that plate has to come off? Take it all off together or pull the points, etc first? Or do the plug wires not need to be disturbed to install coils?

 

[racerone]

----leroysramblings-----Will teach you how to work on this magneto.----Yes the magneto plate has to come off.-----Wires screw onto the new coils.-----OMC still supplies quality parts.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

I sent the parts diagram for a 65 18hp Fastwin
This is the link

Evinrude Magneto Group Parts for 1965 18hp 18503 Outboard Motor

Online inventory of Evinrude 18503 Magneto Group parts for 1965 18hp outboard motors. Buy a genuine OEM or aftermarket part.

www.marineengine.com

Actually Jimbo, you sent him a picture if you look at the original thing you sent him. He kept talking about it how he couldn't find part numbers so I sent him the link. And now you have resent him the link that I sent him. So let's hope he can get the part numbers correct now! LOL

 

[saltchuckmatt]

----leroysramblings-----Will teach you how to work on this magneto.----Yes the magneto plate has to come off.-----Wires screw onto the new coils.-----OMC still supplies quality parts.

Yes, Leroy's articles are very good and super detailed. Good advice Racerone.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Are these correct?

Johnson/Evinrude/OMC New OEM Ignition Coil 584477, 0584477, 582995, 0582995 | eBay

SKU# 0584477. Where Used: [0582995 (COIL & LAMINATION)]. Replaces prior part number 582995. E3BRCEC 1989-->IGNITION. E3BRESR 1990-->IGNITION. E4BRHCCS 1988-->IGNITION. E4BRHCDE 1986-->IGNITION. E4BRHCOB 1985-->IGNITION.

www.ebay.com

Sierra 18-5006 Tune Up Kit Johnson Evinrude Outboard Motor 0172522 GLM 72810 | eBay

Johnson/Evinrude 0172522. About Sierra. Describe the nature of the problem and its urgency (include pictures if possible). Every country is different. If you're unsure, research with your custom's officebefore ordering.

www.ebay.com

Thanks for telling me about Leeroy. Good stuff!

 

[clemsonfor]

Are you saying coils and points should all be the same brand? Or that the guy got defective points, mixed brands maybe? Haven't ordered yet, but sure would suck if the new parts weren't any good. Doesn't look like OMC makes points anymore, so got to use something. A different brand maybe?

Jimmbo, that does look like my motor, thanks. Only thing puzzling me is looks like the plug wires are held in by screws coming up from underneath the round plate, so, I guess that plate has to come off? Take it all off together or pull the points, etc first? Or do the plug wires not need to be disturbed to install coils?

OMC won't make points anymore. That company was purchased and dissolved over 20 years ago. The company that purchased them also has killed the Evinrude name. Some parts are still made by Bombardier. You may still find NOS OMC parts out there though.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

OMC won't make points anymore. That company was purchased and dissolved over 20 years ago. The company that purchased them also has killed the Evinrude name. Some parts are still made by Bombardier. You may still find NOS OMC parts out there though.

I was told Bombardier was still making parts, was that bad information?

 

[jimmbo]

Actually Jimbo, you sent him a picture if you look at the original thing you sent him. He kept talking about it how he couldn't find part numbers so I sent him the link. And now you have resent him the link that I sent him. So let's hope he can get the part numbers correct now! LOL

I did a copy of the image from the the exact Page that I later sent the link to.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Started pulling ignition parts. Points look not too great, going to replace along with the condensers. Tested the coils for continuity and they seem OK. Got .9 on the 200 ohm scale. Does that seem too high? Measuring the secondary through the plug wires which I know effects the reading also showed continuity at 3.25 on 20k scale. Heated up the coils to 130-135* and they still tested good. Maybe that's not hot enough? I just can't imagine it gets all that hot under the cover when idling along on an 80* day. So what now? I hate to just toss money at a problem and those coils look recent to me, not original for sure and they seem to test out OK. Make sense to replace them anyway?

Also there is oil on the plate the points mount to. Could that cause an intermittent running issue? Wonder where that could be coming from.

 

[jimmbo]

if there is Oil on the Armature Plate, it is usually coming from the upper Crankshaft Seal. If Oil is getting out, air is getting in and causing a Leaning of the fuel mix for the top Cylinder.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Interesting. Is it OK to run it like this? Difficult to change? Just ordered Sierra points and condensers. Figure I'll toss them in, set everything I can set and take it out for another run. Condensers tested good BTW, but bled down kind of weird. Seemed to retain a small charge. Hoping they're the problem. Think that would account for the nasty looking points.

 

[Dave1027]

Started pulling ignition parts. Points look not too great, going to replace along with the condensers. Tested the coils for continuity and they seem OK. Got .9 on the 200 ohm scale. Does that seem too high? Measuring the secondary through the plug wires which I know effects the reading also showed continuity at 3.25 on 20k scale. Heated up the coils to 130-135* and they still tested good. Maybe that's not hot enough? I just can't imagine it gets all that hot under the cover when idling along on an 80* day. So what now? I hate to just toss money at a problem and those coils look recent to me, not original for sure and they seem to test out OK. Make sense to replace them anyway?

0.9 ohms on the primary sounds about right. Are you showing 3.25 K ohms on the secondary? Not 3.25 ohms? On the secondary, I'm thinking anything between 3K and 8K is what you are looking for.

 

[LaqueRatt]

The readings for the secondaries were through the plug wires instead of at the coils so the resistance is extra high. Couldn't get anything on the 200 scale, so went up to 20k. I was mainly checking for loss of continuity when the coils got hot. They seem to check out, so new points and condensers for now. Hopefully that'll do the trick.

 

[oldboat1]

Rebuild the ignition, then you know what you have: coils, points, condensers and wires. Wires are 7mm with a wire core. OEM if you can, but otherwise Sierra or Mallory will work. Might try a NAPA store to buy everything.

 

[LaqueRatt]

I know that's good advice, but trying not to throw money into it if don't have to. Got two other motors I'm working on. They all need parts.
Just got the Sierra points and condensers. They are not exactly like the OEM ones I pulled out. Close, but not the same. As long as they bolt up and I can set them at .020 all should be good? I'm a little concerned the rubbing arm is a bit longer.

 

[Dave1027]

I know that's good advice, but trying not to throw money into it if don't have to. Got two other motors I'm working on. They all need parts.
Just got the Sierra points and condensers. They are not exactly like the OEM ones I pulled out. Close, but not the same. As long as they bolt up and I can set them at .020 all should be good? I'm a little concerned the rubbing arm is a bit longer.

The rubbing arm is longer because they're worn down on the old ones. Yeah, .020 gets you in the ball park. There is a youtube that shows how to set the points to the gnats ass using an ohm meter and marks on the flywheel.

 

[racerone]

It is important to get the correct points.---Points must open at the correct time to get maximum spark.