Question for the experts on fiberglass dust

[blkvyyper]

Hello to the forum,
BV is back with another noob question about fiberglass dust. We all know you generate a ton of the stuff when sanding and grinding. My question is can it be re-used as a resin thickener? Since people use wood flour and chopstrand and cabosil to thicken resin for PB, was wondering if it could be used as a thickener. Also I'm working on a 76 procraft tri-hull (I think its called). well one of the outer keels has a split in it about 6" long which i think it came from rubbing on something. What would be the best way to fix this? if you look center between the "M" and the from fishing seat, come straight down at the outer keel radius, there's a light spot, that's the problem area.


http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff491/blkvyyper/Boat1001-angledview.jpg

Thanks BV

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglass dust

BV, no need to start another thread on your project. It's better to keep em all together so we can follow along with ALL of your posts on the same project. Reusing the dust is not a good idea. Remember it has Hardener in it. I could potentially affect the way the new resin catalyzes not to mention it is full of impurities as well. It's never recommended to reuse it. For your split that's a pretty easy fix with some CSM and 1708 but you can get to it later when you're ready for it. Basically you'll lay a layer of CSM on the inside of the hull over the crack followed by a layer of 1708

 

[oops!]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglass dust

it can be used if you are in a jam and need a little more.....

but woodies comments were correct......there is lots of impurities in it....and it will make a weaker filler than the milled fibers or cabosil...

so.......yes you can.....but no you should not

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglass dust

Sorry about starting a new thread, thought because it was a different subject, one needed to be started. Thanks to both of you for your input, problem with doing that repair from the inside is you can't get to it. the way the its built, the seam is hidden

BV

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglass dust

You can use the dust, but it shortens the shelf life of your putty, the dust will start to react with the resin and begin to gel. There is no exact time frame for this to happen, it could take one day or three weeks, so only do it when you know you will use the putty right away.

Most of the time you don't generate enough dust to do much with, so not many people do it.

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglass dust

Thanks Ondarvr for the reply the dust, sanding my tri-hull out, you make a ton of the stuff, didnt think about the resin already in it. won't use it.


Thanks...BV

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Hello forum,
Been a minute since i posted anything, been trying to make it in this screwed economy we got. anyway i got back to sanding today, grinding the inside hull to the pink fiberglass, the "good meat" so to speak. I notice as i grind it out, the hull becomes less stiff. Of course that's what its there for but my question is, should i go ahead and refiberglass it before i but in stringers or should i put in stringers first then refiberglass the hull? Also ground a hole in a spot, do i fix this from the inside or should turn the boat over a repair from the outside? I've seen it done both ways....

Thanks...
BV

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

If you feel the hull needs reinforcing, lay a layer of CSM & 1708 on it after you get it all ground down. For the hole, put some packing tape or duct tape on it on the OUTSIDE and then a layer of CSM and a layer of 1708 on it on the INSIDE and then a couple of layers of CSM on the outside and you'll be good to go.

 

[mrdjflores]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

^^^^^ +1 for WOG said

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

If you feel the hull needs reinforcing, lay a layer of CSM & 1708 on it after you get it all ground down. For the hole, put some packing tape or duct tape on it on the OUTSIDE and then a layer of CSM and a layer of 1708 on it on the INSIDE and then a couple of layers of CSM on the outside and you'll be good to go.

Thanks WOG...Appreciate the help. So you don't fill the hole with like PB, PL or something? Might be a stupid question. Also one of the Keels, (forgive me if i don't get it right), on the starboard side has a gash in it. Guess from rubbing.I see water leaking from it this morning when dew accumulated on it from last night. I can't see the crack from the inside hull to repair it. Any suggestions? Is there something you can use as a keel rub guard besides buying them...man they expensive.

Thanks...
BV

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Post some pics of the keel.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

This may help you find the right boat part names:

Did you mean the chine has a gash?

Pix help a great deal...

For the hole, put some packing tape or duct tape on it on the OUTSIDE and then a layer of CSM and a layer of 1708 on it on the INSIDE and then a couple of layers of CSM on the outside and you'll be good to go.

There may be a little sag of the 1st interior layer of CSM, that's what the tape on the OUTSIDE is for, to keep resin from running down the side of the boat...

Since we can't see a pix of the hole, PB or PL may or may not be needed prior to the 1st CSM layer....

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Hello to the experts,
First I apologize for my non-nautical knowing terminology...LOL :facepalm: I have a hole near the transom (deadrise?), one of the CHINES..(smile) and rubs along the STEM and LIFTING STRAKES...(I'm getting it now!!!.. thanks jbcurt00 for the help)

I've posted some pics so you can see the problems...like you, i'm a visual person also...Is there something you can use to protect the stem and chines from rubbing without buying those stem guard things...man they expensive!!!

Darn, sorry about that red writing, what is says is " does anyone know what this hole was used for?"

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

here are the other pics, I apologize for that red writing...didnt notice it until i uploaded it. what it says is " does anyone know what this hole was used for?" gonna seal it anyway, problem is it sits to close to the lifting strake on the starboard side...right side of the boat, hope that's right.

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Just glass over them from the inside, then do a cosmetic repair on the outside.

You can build up more glass on the inside of the keel to help with beaching, but a Keelguard type product is about the only thing that will keep it from wearing down.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Yep as I said before, tape over the holes on the outside then just lay some CSM and 1708 over all of em on the inside and you can then do the rest from the outside. Really easy to do. Nothing Major there. You'll have it looking new in no time. As for beaching protection without a keel guard, I guess you could lay a few extra layers maybe 3 each of CSM and 1708 to kind of emulate a keel guard. It will wear off eventually however and will need to be gelcoated or painted when it does to keep it looking half way decent. At least with the extra layers of glass it will take longer to get down to where it's hurting the hull.

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Thanks WOG and Ondarvr, will do that. then I got to thinking...Since i got a few touch up spots inside the hull before i'm done with that sanding, was contemplating doing the outside while i'm at it. So i put in a call to West Marine here in the North "Kak". I asked him if I needed to sand and primer the outside before i painted it. He told me since it was gelcoat, it needed to be de-waxed. Is this true? Then told me i could use acetone to do that and i could just paint then, maybe a slight ruff and scuff. He recommended interlux. I want to sand it and then primer it for the imperfections and then roll and tip,followed by clear coat or gelcoat. could use some advice here since i got the boat gutted and light to turnover. Thought i'd get this done while i'm in the sanding stage.

thanks
BV

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Now is the time to flip the hull and work on the bottom but NOT until you do the repairs on the inside. Then flip. As for the final finish you either gelcoat or paint. NOT both. Check the last link in my signature for some good paint info.

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

WOG,
Thanks for the reply sir, I appreciate your response. They make a non-sand primer I was thinking of using. But will get the repairs done as you said first. Once again, thanks to you and all the experts on this forum...You all are a great help to many.

BV

 

[blkvyyper]

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Re: Question for the experts on fiberglassing a 1976 ProCraft 1500 tri-hull

Hello forum...
I wanted to ask you guys why you use csm and 1708 versus 1810 cloth? Is there that much of a difference? I read that csm was very heavy and takes up a lot of resin as something like 1810 cloth is lighter, uses less resin and about the same strength and stiffness. Can 1708 be used by itself or is there one glass that will do the same thing as the 1708 and csm combination?

Thanks...
BV