Question about battery post connections

poconojoe

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I have two batteries and always use the threaded posts as verses the clamp type posts.

On two occasions, once on each battery, I have had the threaded post spin in the lead base while tightening them. I wasn't even applying a whole lot of torque. The makeup of these things are just a hex head bolt embedded in lead. I repaired it both times by repacking the lead with a hammer and blunt chisel.

I had to buy one new battery this season and here's my question:
Is it OK to use two nuts with the cable lug sandwiched between them? Basically so I'm holding the bottom nut with a wrench and tightening the top one with another wrench and not putting any torque on the post itself.
Anyone see any problem with this?
 

dingbat

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Nov 20, 2001
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I have two batteries and always use the threaded posts as verses the clamp type posts.

On two occasions, once on each battery, I have had the threaded post spin in the lead base while tightening them. I wasn't even applying a whole lot of torque. The makeup of these things are just a hex head bolt embedded in lead. I repaired it both times by repacking the lead with a hammer and blunt chisel.

I had to buy one new battery this season and here's my question:
Is it OK to use two nuts with the cable lug sandwiched between them? Basically so I'm holding the bottom nut with a wrench and tightening the top one with another wrench and not putting any torque on the post itself.
Anyone see any problem with this?
No reason why not.....but why are you stripping them?
Are you using ny-loc nuts as recommended?
Doesn't take much torque at all to tighten
 

poconojoe

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No reason why not.....but why are you stripping them?
Are you using ny-loc nuts as recommended?
Doesn't take much torque at all to tighten
So, ny-loc is reccomended? I didn't know that. I though the nylon insert would insulate, so I've never used them on the batteries. I know they wouldn't fully insulate, but maybe to a degree.

As far as spinning the stud in the battery, I've had that happen twice and I don't think I was putting that much torque on them. One battery is a odd name and the other is Mercury. Both are marine start batteries.
 

Alumarine

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I've used those posts countless times with different makes of batteries and never spun the posts.
You're just trying to make a good electrical connection that doesn't loosen.
 

dingbat

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So, ny-loc is reccomended? I didn't know that. I though the nylon insert would insulate, so I've never used them on the batteries. I know they wouldn't fully insulate, but maybe to a degree.
Yes, Ny-loc are recommended as they are vibration resistant unlike wing nuts.

The contact is between the lower side of the copper lug and the top of the battery post. The nut simply holds the lug in place
 

dingbat

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Is it OK to use two nuts with the cable lug sandwiched between them?
On second thought, don't do it.

The main point of contact is between the "pad" of battery terminal and the lug on the battery cable. Putting a nut or flat washer in between the pad and the cable increase resistance significantly, causing heat
 

Grub54891

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Yeah, no wing nuts and preferably by lock nuts. Don’t gorilla them so tight. Just a bit after snug.
 

Lou C

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make sure that you are using nuts with the right thread, coarse vs fine.
 

poconojoe

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Yes, Ny-loc are recommended as they are vibration resistant unlike wing nuts.

The contact is between the lower side of the copper lug and the top of the battery post. The nut simply holds the lug in place
Got it.
Thanks everyone for the quick replies.
 

airshot

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Not sure why wing nuts are not recomended, I always add a simple lock washer under the wing nut and never had one come loose. Without a lock washer they are useless, but with a simple lock washer, they are much easier to loosen andvtighten without looking for wrenches. Been using them on my boat batteries this way for almost 50 years, with O issues. I also use the clamps that also have threaded studs so extra accessories can be attached, use wing nuts with lock washers there as well.....
 

Grub54891

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On a small boat, wing nuts may work ok, but I’ve seen/worked on several boats with more than three 8-d batteries with wing nuts. The amperage running through those type of connections can heat up rather quickly. That is why ABYC don’t allow them anymore, including smaller batteries. And no more than three connections on a single stud.
 

airshot

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Didn't know they were not allowed anymore...thanks for the up date. Of course I would not recomend them on 50 ft yachts, have been a small boat owner all my 70 plus years, never had an issue and never had a hugh amp draw either. Even my 55 lb trolling motor has wing nuts on the studs right from the factory!! Of course I added lock washers to keep them tight.
 

Grub54891

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Didn't know they were not allowed anymore...thanks for the up date. Of course I would not recomend them on 50 ft yachts, have been a small boat owner all my 70 plus years, never had an issue and never had a hugh amp draw either. Even my 55 lb trolling motor has wing nuts on the studs right from the factory!! Of course I added lock washers to keep them tight.
Yeah, all the new batteries we get now are nuts only. Even the smaller batteries. A few years ago they came with wing nuts.
 

Chris1956

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There is nothing wrong with using the binding posts. We have used them successfully on cars/trucks etc. for years. If you have any doubts that the bolts are loose or can come loose, get some binding post adaptors and use them. They have ones that have bolts and wing nuts, plus they fit on the binding posts, so no conversion is required.


If the battery cable comes loose, it will play expensive havoc with your ign and charging systems.

FWIW, I have never had a battery bolt break loose.
 

Grub54891

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There is nothing wrong with using the binding posts. We have used them successfully on cars/trucks etc. for years. If you have any doubts that the bolts are loose or can come loose, get some binding post adaptors and use them. They have ones that have bolts and wing nuts, plus they fit on the binding posts, so no conversion is required.


If the battery cable comes loose, it will play expensive havoc with your ign and charging systems.

FWIW, I have never had a battery bolt break loose.
I hate those things. It's just another connection for corrosion. Easy enough to change the cable ends to the proper clamp.
 
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